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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, going 1/4 elip on the new buggae. I'm thinking of cutting up my 63" chevy packs, and redrilling and adding the cut leaves back into teh apck to form my 1/4 elip pack. My reasoning is a long flat spring should still flex better, even in 1/4 elip setups and I'm guesing the spring rate should be about the same with all of the leaves in half the stock total length??? Has anyone tried this?
 

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Sounds like a plan to me. It would make for a thicker pack than most 1/4 setups, but I can't see any reason not to do it. Hell, more leaves should be a plus.
 

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when people are willing to pay $$ for those things i wouldn't be cutting them up. try to sell em first.



unless their bent already.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
larryboy said:
when people are willing to pay $$ for those things i wouldn't be cutting them up. try to sell em first.



unless their bent already.
This is my one hesitation, these springs are selling for $100 and I can buy the springs that everyone else is using for $37. I do think that I may be onto something with this though, and seeing how I'm not actually out the money on the chevy's, I'm thinking of trying it. I always like to try something a littel different.

Jesselt- they will be a 6 leaf pack, about what everyone else is running (6-8)
 

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Since they are so long, wouldn't the mount be sorta under the middle of the frame where it would be a rock anchor like the normal Chevy spring hangers are? (one of the few disadvantages of Chevy's).

The other setups you've seen and probably would more or less copy, work well enough that I'd be hesitant to re-invent the wheel...

$0.02
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, the mount would be under the mid section of the frame. The cab on this setup (or what's left of one) will be mounted about 5" back from stock. I was planning on inbording my 1/4elip frame mount. I'm shooting for a flat belly on this thing. The F250/350 rigs do work well though.
 

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Only problem that i see is that when you cut a spring in half, you also cut the spring rate in half. With a spring that soft i would be worried that they would just go negitave with the weight of the truck, but since i have never done a 1/4 i dont completely know.

Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hick said:
Only problem that i see is that when you cut a spring in half, you also cut the spring rate in half. With a spring that soft i would be worried that they would just go negitave with the weight of the truck, but since i have never done a 1/4 i dont completely know.

Garrett
That is why I said I was adding the cut half back into the pack:D
 

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dude, we have many notes to compare, my f250's are 3" leafs as well. lets find a good 1/4elip spring for yoats together.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Sounds good to me. The chevy's aren't 3" wide (I don't think) My F150 fronts are though. What are the stock center pin measurements/offset for your springs? I'll compare them to my F150's. The local PNP is pretty friendly to me on springs ($18.50 ea).
 

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Wilson said:
I was planning on inbording my 1/4elip frame mount. .
Don't do it, srings should always be outboarded, they give you more resistance to rolling and still allow for a lot of flex, you will thank yourself later when you don't roll over.
 

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according to my econ teacher by cutting up springs you already own you are not imposing more cost on yourself :rolleyes:

i say do it

eat top roman for a month (or 3 like me)
then pasta (no sauce) for another 3 :flipoff2:
 

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hey wilson, sorry for the stupid jackass dumb SOB noob question here.. but what exactly does it mean when ya inboard or outboard your springs? is it when you have let's say 3ft between the left and right rear springs and you inboard then to 2.5 ft..i guess just move them in closer= inboard move them out farther to your wheels=outboard??

( flame suit is on,fire away:D ) i'm just trying to understand all the lingo nowadays so i can understand all the reasearch imma bout to do before i attempt my 1/4 setup...thanks for info
 

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Toyotafourwheeln said:
hey wilson, sorry for the stupid jackass dumb SOB noob question here.. but what exactly does it mean when ya inboard or outboard your springs? is it when you have let's say 3ft between the left and right rear springs and you inboard then to 2.5 ft..i guess just move them in closer= inboard move them out farther to your wheels=outboard??

( flame suit is on,fire away:D ) i'm just trying to understand all the lingo nowadays so i can understand all the reasearch imma bout to do before i attempt my 1/4 setup...thanks for info
inboarding means to move them in closer to the dif and move the mounts in off the frame and out would be out closer to the wheels.that way tour mounts are not hanging down you can tuck them up under the frame.
 

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Okay, this sounds interesting. I've got a question though. I have a Nissan with the Chevy's, and they aren't flat at all. In fact, they have quite a bit of arch. Granted, there isn't a top, or hatch, or even much sheet metal on it, but I don't know if I'm gonna have enough weight on the back to flex out the springs. Are you guys running alot of weight in the back to flatten the springs out?

Maybe just take the top leaf from a shorter pack, and then throw in all the other leafs from the Chevy's? That would put it a little farther back, and not so much under the frame.
 

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Wilson said:
Sounds good to me. The chevy's aren't 3" wide (I don't think) My F150 fronts are though. What are the stock center pin measurements/offset for your springs? I'll compare them to my F150's. The local PNP is pretty friendly to me on springs ($18.50 ea).
the main leaf long side is ~31" from centerpin to eye. the pack was four 1/4" thick leafs with an overload. i kept the other halves of my leafs as well and punched centerpin holes in them so i can add any if needed....
 

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The only drawback to trying them other than the money, would be if they dont work it would be a lot of effort to move the spring pockets back for the shorter f350 springs. But then if your not frenching them into the frame like most it might not be that big of job. Just somethin to thing about.

CJ
 

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good point cj, i originally had mine mounted up farther on the frame and the shackle to the front of the axle, when i moved it back i had to patch the frame....sucked....i think a 63" chevy has centered pins so it might not be that far off??
 

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Booger Weldz said:
i think a 63" chevy has centered pins so it might not be that far off??
Hey, Your right I didnt think of that! the chevys are centered-so depending on the location of the center pin for the ford.... hell I say go for it!! whats a few bucks to see if a new idea will work?? It might just be the shizznit!!

CJ
 
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