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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have drawn my planned layout/ upgrades below.

Been moved in for about 2 yrs now and the shops filling up, so i'm about to light my checkbook on fire in a pallet rack purchase as drawn to get my junk off the floor. with 14' ceilings i can put the bottom shelf at7' high or so and create bench space below in areas i want to.

I got a great deal on a 3 yr old challenger 12k lift and its been sitting on a trailer in my other building for about 9 mos.

Does anyone have a better lift location, than as drawn?


Any other layout nit-picks/ suggestions?



Higher-res link
 

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X3 on put the lift straight with the door. Pulling a running rig into a 2 post at an angle is annoying, pushing a dead one any way other than straight is infuriating.
 

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I got mine at a angle and it works good. Just make sure you have a good 10’ from the base of lift to the nearest object. Mine is a little close when you get a long car on the lift.

By offsetting the lift like that you need to waste more room in the shop for the vehicle to get in and out. Best bet is to put it straight in front of door. I would flop the garage door to the top side of the picture vs the bottom. Or even better would be move office to bottom side and put 2 doors in. You can never have too many doors on a shop.
 

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I would expect with a building that big one of these days you will have a forklift. I would make sure there is room to get a forklift into the pallet racks
 

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I agree with making the lift in line with your doors. That helps when using the lift to remove a dead car / cab / whatever off a trailer with the lift. It would also make it possible to access the entire pallet rack with a forklift.

For pallet racking, my suggestion would be to run it along the entire wall and not skip around the man doors. You can place the beam over the door at 7’ or 7’6” so it won’t effect movement through the door, while storing items in what would otherwise be wasted space above the walk in doors.

My personal plan is to use pallet racking crossbeams for work benches by using stepped style beams with a sheet of 3/4 plywood at bench height. Easy to make, strong, and can still store large items below the bench. Could sheet the top with steel instead for a welding table if wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm really avoiding the center mounted lift because I do enjoy being able to pull in a truck & trailer combo overnight or a big ass boat, and having to thread the needle on a 2 post would sort of suck.


I got mine at a angle and it works good. Just make sure you have a good 10’ from the base of lift to the nearest object. Mine is a little close when you get a long car on the lift.

By offsetting the lift like that you need to waste more room in the shop for the vehicle to get in and out. Best bet is to put it straight in front of door. I would flop the garage door to the top side of the picture vs the bottom. Or even better would be move office to bottom side and put 2 doors in. You can never have too many doors on a shop.
See below. Thanks for that input on spacing. I know that it'll waste a bit of space in the corner but I'm confident I could fill it!

another vote here to give the lift its own door
I wish I did.
Your plan as pictured looks like an indoor driveway :flipoff2:
I didn't do a great job clarifying- the shell & office/ storage are as - built/ existing. Lift location Pallet racking/ shelving configuration is mostly what's up for discussion.

I also have a 35x 80 X 10h airplane hangar for other storage, so this is just the toy/ workshop.
 

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Keep it where it is and angle it. You want as straight of a shot as you can to the lift but I wouldn't put it in the middle, it will be in the way. Especially when you have a dead vehicle on it and want access to the paint/wood shop or want to pull a long vehicle in (pickup and trailer as you said). You want your lift as close to your bench and tools as you can.....once you have a lift your going to spend 85 percent of your time working there.

That's my 2 cents for what it's worth.
 

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I would turn the 14x12' door into two doors. Line up the lift with one of them. Lose that TV shelf storage thing.

I decided my lift is going to be available for whatever job has to happen on a vehicle on short notice - so its near the overhead door. The 'project' car gets to sit in the back of the shop, and get rolled on/off the lift as needed.

Difficult to comprehend such a big space. :laughing:
 

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I would turn the 14x12' door into two doors. Line up the lift with one of them. Lose that TV shelf storage thing.

I decided my lift is going to be available for whatever job has to happen on a vehicle on short notice - so its near the overhead door. The 'project' car gets to sit in the back of the shop, and get rolled on/off the lift as needed.

Difficult to comprehend such a big space. :laughing:
This is what I’d do. It pisses me off when daily driver is dead and I have to move another dead car out of the way to work on it.
 

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I too have put my lift 90° to the door. Terrible idea. I constantly just picked up rigs and lined them up with the forklift. Trying to turn a dead rig in a shop with locked diffs and drive flanges is what hell must be like.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I would turn the 14x12' door into two doors. Line up the lift with one of them. Lose that TV shelf storage thing.

I decided my lift is going to be available for whatever job has to happen on a vehicle on short notice - so its near the overhead door. The 'project' car gets to sit in the back of the shop, and get rolled on/off the lift as needed.

Difficult to comprehend such a big space. :laughing:

As i stated, the doors/ closet ( tv hanging on the wall of closet over shelves) etc are already in place. )


Its a lot of space and a lot to digest.

I also have a 35x80 airplane hangar on the property to stow other stuff ( tractors/ mowers/ longer term vehicle storage), so this 50x100 is a pure work/ toy space. {once i get power back to the hangar... (i'm digging ditches yesterday- today tp get that addressed.}

Scaling reference on the big one-
Gavan's mega dually and 26' hauler tucked in the corner by the paintshop. ( would not be possible with centered lift.):




my various junk before i finished my 3rd row long ways of lighting (standing at office door):





So i have no shortage of projects; and you start looking at insulating 50x100x14, your head spin and wallet will yelp in angst... :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I would expect with a building that big one of these days you will have a forklift. I would make sure there is room to get a forklift into the pallet racks
I agree with making the lift in line with your doors. That helps when using the lift to remove a dead car / cab / whatever off a trailer with the lift. It would also make it possible to access the entire pallet rack with a forklift.

For pallet racking, my suggestion would be to run it along the entire wall and not skip around the man doors. You can place the beam over the door at 7’ or 7’6” so it won’t effect movement through the door, while storing items in what would otherwise be wasted space above the walk in doors.

My personal plan is to use pallet racking crossbeams for work benches by using stepped style beams with a sheet of 3/4 plywood at bench height. Easy to make, strong, and can still store large items below the bench. Could sheet the top with steel instead for a welding table if wanted.

i believe my optimal solution is a pallet jack type walk behind/ telescoping battery powered forklift which lends particularly well since my top shelf will likely be 10' and also consumes a smaller footprint to store for the 99.9% of the time i spend in there not using it.

I worked at Lowes hardware in the lumber dept one summer in college, and made a hell of a mess on the sand/ concrete gravel aisle with motor powered sit on forklifts swinging the ass end in tight quarters ( tearing bags etc), enough to know that i want more precision/ surgical delicacy in material placement.
 

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I'd go with a barrel style door, instead of one with tracks if at all possible.

The tracks get in the way, and once I got my fingers between the leaves when I was closing the door and I still have flashbacks. You don't have that problem with a barrell door
 

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i believe my optimal solution is a pallet jack type walk behind/ telescoping battery powered forklift which lends particularly well since my top shelf will likely be 10' and also consumes a smaller footprint to store for the 99.9% of the time i spend in there not using it.

I worked at Lowes hardware in the lumber dept one summer in college, and made a hell of a mess on the sand/ concrete gravel aisle with motor powered sit on forklifts ( tearing bags etc), enough to know that i want more precision/ surgical delicacy in material placement.
I have one of those and its nice.
There are 2 kinds, mine is a straddle type (has 2 legs that stick out 4' forward of the mast and the back sticks out ~2 feet behind the mast), you have to keep the floor under the bottom layer on the pallet rack clear to make that work (with lifting, pulling back, setting it down and pushing in you can work around a set of cabinets under the pallet rack).
Straddle Type:


The other kind is a counterbalance type (more like a regular forklift, but with a pallet jack type handle) and it works well, but takes more space (4-6 feet behind the mast, plus the length of the forks) to store.
Counterbalance:


Whatever you do, ONLY get one that is electric driven. Pushing a manual one with a few pieces of 1/4" pieces of gravel on the floor is an exercise in frustration.

Aaron Z
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I have one of those and its nice.
There are 2 kinds, mine is a straddle type (has 2 legs that stick out 4' forward of the mast and the back sticks out ~2 feet behind the mast), you have to keep the floor under the bottom layer on the pallet rack clear to make that work (with lifting, pulling back, setting it down and pushing in you can work around a set of cabinets under the pallet rack).
Straddle Type:


The other kind is a counterbalance type (more like a regular forklift, but with a pallet jack type handle) and it works well, but takes more space (4-6 feet behind the mast, plus the length of the forks) to store.
Counterbalance:


Whatever you do, ONLY get one that is electric driven. Pushing a manual one with a few pieces of 1/4" pieces of gravel on the floor is an exercise in frustration.

Aaron Z
they look handier than a swiss army knife.

its a slick finished floor so i need to clean the floor is this or a jack/ dolly wheel hangs up anyhow...

i believe they make one of the straddle type that the forks telescope in & out to get out over/ beyond the pallet forks on the base. In my ideal world i'd snag one of those. But with enough shelving, i should be able to keep the bottom reasonably clear and or on wheeled dollys.
 
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