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Discussion Starter #1
My diesel has a problem. You can start it first thing, it starts right up. Then you drive it to the gas station, or where ever, then you turn it off and run inside, get what you need. You come back out and try to start it. All it will do is turn over. the engine acts like it wants to crank but will not.

Here is what I have done. I changed the fuel filter, and bled out the whole system. The problem still presists. By the way this is a 99 dodge. so it uses air heaters, and they are working.

Any body have any idea what the hell is wrong with this thing:confused: all help is appreciated
 

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sounds like maybe the fuel shutoff selenoid or valve isn't opening.
 

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In 99 I think you could get the isb or the 12 valve,,wich one do you have..If its the 12v the shut off solenoid couls be on its way out..Like what txs said..if its an isb ic couls be a program problem..There is a recal for that..
If you have the inline 12v pump look on the sied of it for a solinoid with a rod going to a lever..(fender well side),If its not engauging while your cranking check the power,,one should engauge and one shold hold the solenoid..I think the other is a ground..
 

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'99s were all the 24 Valve ISB motor.
Early '98s were 12 Valve, they switched to the 24 valve for Jan. '98 to meet emissions regs.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is the 24v engine. I took it to chrysler to figure out the problem. I think it is the transfer pump myself, and told them so. They said it wasn't that it was a programming problem. So they did some programing "problems" . Then they said it had to be the ignition switch. So they replaced it. Still messed up. So then they replaced the control module. Still messed up. So they dropped the tank and flushed the whole system, and cleaned out the tank. Still messed up. They say the fuel is off by 1 psi. So they are replacing the transfer pump. Since the truck still has under a 100,000 miles, everything they did before replacing the transfer pump, woud have cost me a fortune, but now it is under warranty.
:eek:

Can you say WOOOOOOHHHOOOOOOO!:D
 

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I just got my transfer pump replaced under warranty too! It's like a $1000 part. Mine 99 had just over 100K on the ticker but because I had record of having brought it in to the dealer prior to the 100 rollover and them missing the problem, they let me sneak in under the warranty cut-off. (very cool for a dealership!)

BUT...mine also needed the PCM, the body hardware module, the tranny wiring harness, throttle valve cable, some tranny servos/switches, and stuff replaced. It was just shy of a fortune by that point so the $1000 was just a few drops in the bucket by then but still nice.
 

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did that fix yo' problem? on mine, the pump helped but didn't cure the problem. never the less, nice to have that BIG item covered under warranty whether it needed it or not. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I went out last night to go to dinner and the fawkin thing would not start:mad: Still has the same problem, only a little better than before. What ever happened to dodge having a desent diesel mechanic.

:flipoff2: goes to my local dodge dealership
no make that :flipoff1::flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 

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I would say you have a leak in the fuel system somewhere causing it to lose prime. Do you park at an uphill or downhill angle at night? Mine sat in my driveway at an uphill angle and would take a while to start but if flat or downhill would start immediately. I would take a Mighty Vac with the brake bleeder container to keep it from sucking diesel into it and put it on the fuel return line. I can't remember the exact spec but it should hold a vacuum for a while. There may be some fuel line quick disconnects at the lift pump (i think people have been referring to the $1000 fuel injection pump as a transfer pump, not really correct) and at the fuel return line. I would plug the send line and put vacuum on the return line. If it doesn't hold a steady vacuum you likely have a leak somewhere.

There are several places for a leak to occur. There are washers on all the banjo bolts. There are O-rings on the fuel transfer tubes that go between the bulkhead fitting and the fuel injector itself. My leak ended up being a torn O-ring on one of the fuel injectors. Each fuel injector has a rubber O-ting toward the top of it that seals the return fuel. These are basically listed easiest to hardest to access.

Sounds like your dealership has just been throwing parts at it and not diagnosing. The diesel mechanic at dealerships is an irritating situation. As a Cummins rep near me said they go from working on a $8,000 car to an $8000 engine. I'm lucky to have an awesome diesel guy at one of my local dealerships.
 

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Go here and print out this TSB and take it back to your dealer. Ask him if he has done it. It is probably your problem...I know it has fixxed several buddies trucks.


If you need more help, head over to www.turbodieselregister.com and become a member...it is worth it.
 

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If all else fails, go to an authorized cummins garage. A lot of big trucks use the 5.9L cummins in them such as trailer jockies at factories like where I work. Atleast you'll get a diesel mechanic instead of a Neon mechanic!;)
 
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