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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
currie style antirock swaybar - homebuilt design.

Its hard to tell from pics that show up from the search and on the internet, are the ends of the currie antirock main bar splined? I know that they spline the ends of race car bars. Interested in buying or building something like the Currie design. Thanks
 

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yes they are :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
For a lowbuck but effective solution to the problem of splineing at home, what do you think about this design? It borrows the same concept of a square tube spline from a drive shaft.
 

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macj98 said:
For a lowbuck but effective solution to the problem of splineing at home, what do you think about this design? It borrows the same concept of a square tube spline from a drive shaft.

Square drive shafts are neat-o
 

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macj98 said:
For a lowbuck but effective solution to the problem of splineing at home, what do you think about this design? It borrows the same concept of a square tube spline from a drive shaft.
the problem would be attaching it to the sway bar, if you machine it square it will most likely snap off, if you weld it the welds will crack.
 

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There are plenty of places to get a splined torsion bar. I've had a lot of good luck with 1"-48 spline bars from stock car products. They stock 37.5" diameters and can custom make a bar if you want to wait. 3/4" to 15/16" bars are the range I would look at. The stiffness of the bar is D^4 so small changes can make a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If a welded joint is done properly, it shouldn't crack or break before the bar does.

How much have you guys been able to use stock car parts and put one together for??
 

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macj98 said:
If a welded joint is done properly, it shouldn't crack or break before the bar does.

How much have you guys been able to use stock car parts and put one together for??
reason for cracking isn't the material it self, it's the stress concentration from the shape...no matter how awesome you weld it, there is more stress there than anywhere else.
 

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bignissan said:
reason for cracking isn't the material it self, it's the stress concentration from the shape...no matter how awesome you weld it, there is more stress there than anywhere else.
Correct. I have even had ones crack that were heat treated.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
FatCity said:

Thanx for the links.
Damn you're at $150 without the center bar! Then you have to drill holes in the arms to make fit. In then end you'd probably be the same as buying a Currie Univ fit.
I was trying to build one for $100 or under which is why in the drawing I used 1" square tube with .125 thickness, 3/4 square stock, 3/4 solid rod, and 3/8 plate for the ends. I realise i still need hardware but I know I can get that cheaper than $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
bignissan said:
reason for cracking isn't the material it self, it's the stress concentration from the shape...no matter how awesome you weld it, there is more stress there than anywhere else.

In theory a shear joint should fail at the spot with the smallest cross section. Given that I grind/machine the weld smooth as to eliminate stress concentration factors due to surface imperfections, it shouldn't break. No disrespect by the way.

This is what I was thinking of doing for the welds.
 

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Stress concentration comes from changes in cross section. You will notice that with the splined bars there is about a 1" radius (if not more) at the ends. You will also have problems because of the weld and the yield strength of the material unless you have it heat treated. Think of an anti-roll bar like an axle shaft...would you want to weld on an axle shaft?

Edit: If you want to cheap out on it just use a factory anti-roll bar. Just dig around in the j/y till you find the right width and diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Triaged said:
Stress concentration comes from changes in cross section. You will notice that with the splined bars there is about a 1" radius (if not more) at the ends. You will also have problems because of the weld and the yield strength of the material unless you have it heat treated. Think of an anti-roll bar like an axle shaft...would you want to weld on an axle shaft?

Edit: If you want to cheap out on it just use a factory anti-roll bar. Just dig around in the j/y till you find the right width and diameter.

Just out of curiosity, have you ever broken a swaybar? Or has anyone broken a currie or stock car style?
thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Edit: If you want to cheap out on it just use a factory anti-roll bar. Just dig around in the j/y till you find the right width and diameter.
True that will definately work for the Toy im workin on and I can just use disconnects, but I also want to build a similar system for a bagged 2wd im workin on for a buddy, since the principals are the same.
 

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macj98 said:
Just out of curiosity, have you ever broken a swaybar? Or has anyone broken a currie or stock car style?
thanks.
Yes I have. It was one I made. It was also on something that only rolled about 2deg during a 2g turn.
 

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macj98 said:
Thanx for the links.
Damn you're at $150 without the center bar! Then you have to drill holes in the arms to make fit. In then end you'd probably be the same as buying a Currie Univ fit.
I was trying to build one for $100 or under which is why in the drawing I used 1" square tube with .125 thickness, 3/4 square stock, 3/4 solid rod, and 3/8 plate for the ends. I realise i still need hardware but I know I can get that cheaper than $100.

I dont think 3/4 cold rolled is going to have the memory required of a sway bar, and will probably break pretty quickly.
I suggest you pony up the X-tra 50 bucks, and save your valuble time
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Triaged said:
Yes I have. It was one I made. It was also on something that only rolled about 2deg during a 2g turn.

Yeah..thats stiff.
 
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