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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I want to add 10" of wheelbase to my TJ. I am thinking of going 8-10" in the rear and either 2" or 0" in the front depending on how far I go in the rear. My current setup is going to be a Ford 5.0HO mated to a C4 to a 203 to a d300. The axles are going to be a 14bolt rear and a hp60 front. I already have the RE longarm kit and a BTF truss on the 14bolt (not under the jeep yet). My plan is to triangulate the upper arms and maybe seperate the lower arms a couple of inches further apart from the stock location. I don't want to comp cut the tub (I want to keep it somewhat street legal "looking"), so my plan is to cut the frame and body in front of the rear wheel well, and splice in 8-10" to the frame and to the tub. I have read through P&T's awesome thread about adding length to the frame, but like I said, I don't want to comp cut the rear so adding length to the end of the frame isn't going to work, unless someone can give me an idea. As for the frame, I want to add a 10" spacer in between the rails that are sleeved into the existing frame 2-4", depending on how much I can go. I am going to take the RE links and cut them in half, take some solid stock and get them turned down so they will slide in the links about 6" and give me my extra 10" of link length. I figure it would be right around the Unlimited length of longarms so I shouldn't have to worry about them being too long.

Does this sound like a decent plan? Anything I am overlooking or need to revise? I know this will take a long time, but I have no illusion's of doing this in a weekend. :)

Offer up advice/concerns/opinion's please.

Ken
 

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I cut out my fenders and flattied the front. I am at about 101" but most of it is in the front. It is easier to stretch the rear but IMHO I think the front is better to stretch the front.

its kind of hard to tell in the pic but the front of the tire is now dead even with the front of the frame
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was leaning towards the rear because of the extra cargo room that would be available. What size rubber are you running on that?
 

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37 mtrs as of right now. I have no cargo room thanks to a fuel cell and a back seat. Thats ok though as long as my daughter will go I will have a seat for her. The extra length in the wheelbase is a huge plus though. Maybe this winter I will run the rear frame straight out but for now it works with moving the spring cups back a little.
 

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Ken, you gotta come up and check out Chris Lemays TJ. He did EXACTLY what you want to do. His looks more like a bobbed 8. He stretched the frame and tub right behind the door and built his own four link front and rear. He is not online but Tracey (TEAMFX3) has his phone number and I know where he lives (Canaan, NH 03741)... Be quite a drive but tons of good info and just being able to see and know what you should expect and tips on the project. The guy is a talker so don't worry about even having to ask questions.
 

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Jaiden,

That's one totally sick setup. By far my biggest problem when attacking ledges is the poor approach angle. I cut the ends off that super-gay ARB front bumper at the frame and that has helped. I'm only running 5" total inches of lift so I'm limited to 35s.

I too was thinking of lengthening my wheelbase a couple of inches, but not the tub length.

Unfortuneately, my TJ lost it's garage space to my M-678 and untill that is on the road, Phase II of the TJ build is on hold. I'll pluck the engine and send it out for stroking and raise the cargo floor and gas tank. Might be a good time to stick the front axle out where it belongs!
 

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kpj said:
I want to add 10" of wheelbase to my TJ. I am thinking of going 8-10" in the rear and either 2" or 0" in the front depending on how far I go in the rear. My current setup is going to be a Ford 5.0HO mated to a C4 to a 203 to a d300. The axles are going to be a 14bolt rear and a hp60 front. I already have the RE longarm kit and a BTF truss on the 14bolt (not under the jeep yet). My plan is to triangulate the upper arms and maybe seperate the lower arms a couple of inches further apart from the stock location. I don't want to comp cut the tub (I want to keep it somewhat street legal "looking"), so my plan is to cut the frame and body in front of the rear wheel well, and splice in 8-10" to the frame and to the tub. I have read through P&T's awesome thread about adding length to the frame, but like I said, I don't want to comp cut the rear so adding length to the end of the frame isn't going to work, unless someone can give me an idea. As for the frame, I want to add a 10" spacer in between the rails that are sleeved into the existing frame 2-4", depending on how much I can go. I am going to take the RE links and cut them in half, take some solid stock and get them turned down so they will slide in the links about 6" and give me my extra 10" of link length. I figure it would be right around the Unlimited length of longarms so I shouldn't have to worry about them being too long.

Does this sound like a decent plan? Anything I am overlooking or need to revise? I know this will take a long time, but I have no illusion's of doing this in a weekend. :)

Offer up advice/concerns/opinion's please.

Ken
This sounds like a good plan, I have been planning something very similar on my jeep: stretching the rear frame and tub 12" (106"WB), raising the stock gas tank into the floor as much as possible and keeping the rear seat for the kids as well as some cargo room behind. I will start on this project next winter.
 

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Sounds like a fun project. I cut my frame and tub behind the front seats and angled the frame up for clearance. I'm at about 109".

 

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Discussion Starter #10
For the ones who have done this. How did you "reinforce" the frame? Does the way I plan on doing sound like a solid idea?
 

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i am actually in the process of doins this very mod to my 04 TJ right now..i am adding 10" between the door opening and wheel well.best advise i can give you is to buld a jig table and cut the frame 2-3" in front of the rear most body mount in front of the rear wheel well.i made a jig that welded to the top and bottom of the frame using 1.75" .120" wall DOM tubing(use a 2-3' piece on each frame rail)after i split the frame and tubing in half i used some 1.5" DOM inside of the 1.75" stuff to act like a sliding sleeve in order to keep both sections of frame perfectly aligned and the same length.i just used sections of 3/16" flat bar bent and boxed to mimic the original frame rails and then sanded the welds down smooth so no one would ever know any better.on the boidy i just split it in half on the floor and bolted the two halves to the body mounts using very large squares to make sure both halves are perfectly inline..it even helps(if you are planning on painting the whole jeep)to tack some pieces of angle iron to the ouside connecting both halves to help hold everything inline..oh yeah another thing that is very important is to weld in cross braces on the body and frame before cutting to keep them from "springing" out of position..as far as lift goes i plan on using a stock jeep unlimited lift kit ..i had pics of everything i had done but unfortunely they were saved on my computer and it got nailed by lightning.i have a comp cut YJ right now and i wanted the security of the extra wheelbase on my TJ but i to didnt wanna have to give up cargo space or put a fuel cell behind the seat
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any chance of getting pics of the current setup? I was thinking of using a jig made out of angle bar....weld it to one side of the frame and make it so it is long enough to just slid the frame half out to the desired length and then sleeve it as I described in the original post.

Some pics of the frame and of the body would be sweet if you can take some for me. :)
 

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Not exactly the same thing but the rear frame of my jeep was cut and brought straight back. It made relocating the springs easy when the wheel base was lengthened to 102.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
If I could figure out a way to slide the body back and make the frame like you have, I think that would be the easiest way to go about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Any more pics or info?

Thanks,

Ken
 

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Fl-Krawler said:
i am actually in the process of doins this very mod to my 04 TJ right now..i am adding 10" between the door opening and wheel well.best advise i can give you is to buld a jig table and cut the frame 2-3" in front of the rear most body mount in front of the rear wheel well.i made a jig that welded to the top and bottom of the frame using 1.75" .120" wall DOM tubing(use a 2-3' piece on each frame rail)after i split the frame and tubing in half i used some 1.5" DOM inside of the 1.75" stuff to act like a sliding sleeve in order to keep both sections of frame perfectly aligned and the same length.i just used sections of 3/16" flat bar bent and boxed to mimic the original frame rails and then sanded the welds down smooth so no one would ever know any better.on the boidy i just split it in half on the floor and bolted the two halves to the body mounts using very large squares to make sure both halves are perfectly inline..it even helps(if you are planning on painting the whole jeep)to tack some pieces of angle iron to the ouside connecting both halves to help hold everything inline..oh yeah another thing that is very important is to weld in cross braces on the body and frame before cutting to keep them from "springing" out of position..as far as lift goes i plan on using a stock jeep unlimited lift kit ..i had pics of everything i had done but unfortunely they were saved on my computer and it got nailed by lightning.i have a comp cut YJ right now and i wanted the security of the extra wheelbase on my TJ but i to didnt wanna have to give up cargo space or put a fuel cell behind the seat
Good idea and tip on the jig, worked that out in my head and think I just may try it. Also with the jig, you should be able to slide/butt up some rect tubing the same size as the frame and that would be a far superior choice of materials than the flat bar. (then you could use flat bar to brace the welds like on beasts setup). I know my jeep takes some drops here and there and looking like a sagging old ford truck would not make me happy. :flipoff2: I have been hammering out this idea for my jeep for a while, it would help facilitate the use of a crawl box, which I just cannot stay away from, and the added cargo space would let me get that rear seat back in there.
 
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