Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
im looking at buying a mobile home frame this weekend that i would be cutting to the size i want for my car hauler. in order to get it registered i would need the width of the thing to be 8ft 6in.

im not sure what the actual axle widths are but it is a 10x50 trailer and the wheels sit underneath the sides.

i got a look at one of these going down the road the other day and i noticed that they do sit under there pretty good. so i may not have a problem. i just dont want to buy the trailer and have to get a new set of axles for it.

would it be possible to cut the solid axles weld them back together using a thick piece of tubing to overlap and gusset it? my thinking is that this would work fine but i dont know much about trailers any thoughts? any help would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,178 Posts
it is not really recomended that you cut down axles,as it would be difficult to do while retaining the arch that they have built into them.

the good news,however,is that they will not really need to cut them down. i have made several trailers from mobile home frames and none of them have had axles that were too wide.

here is one i still currently own and use:


the deck is 8 feet wide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i did not realize that they had an arch.

yes this makes sense to me a little more now. thanks for the reply i appreciate it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,178 Posts
no prollem. the one above was 12 or 14 x 55 as a mobile home and is 10" I beam.10 wide will prolly be 8" I beam or box tubing,great for making smaller trailers. let me know if you have any questions about your build.

are you leaving it 50 feet for the ride home? if so make sure you rig up lights with a couple extensions,and break off or cut down the side support pieces if theyre wider than 8 feet. its also a good idea to have a chase vehicle with you if you can... some rural areas or subdivisions may require you to turn from the wrong lane into the wrong lane in order to not take out mailboxes or stopsigns,so it can be helpful to have someone to stop traffic. plus to stay right behind you to act as a buffer between you and other drivers whom are not paying attention ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
here is the trailer i was planning on picking up.


my plan was to cut the back off past the axles in order to tow it... do you think thats short enough to work? All my plans for it are to turn it into one car trailer 8x20. (seems like a lot of work but its custom) :smokin:

i wasnt planning on having lights... i was going to have a tail vehicle and put flags on all the side supports.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,178 Posts
cutting off the rear is only gonna change what swings out,and not really gonna affect much. the axles are still gonna be as far as they are from the tongue,wich is the big prollem with the path it follows you around corners. ive towed them that way and its not any better than towing the 55 foot long trailer. the rear swin is only a big factor when youre backing it up,not so much towing it down the road.

the other thing to consider isthat youll have to move the axles if you cut the frame right after them. everyone is different in this aspect... some think its easier to move the axles,i personally wuld cut the deck to lenth around the axles,and move the tongue piece forward,or build a new tonge from channel or box tubing if youre so inclined. many mobile homes have kind of a funky clasp that you may want to change out anyway.

if its got a coupler you can live with,see how it will work out to cut the tongue and the first 6 feet or so of frame off,then simply weld the tongue frame to the bottom of the deck frame. its quick and easy,way stronger than somehow butt welding the tongue to the deck frame,and puts the coupler down lower. most of the time the coupler is so high at deck height that youll need a raised drawbar to tow it with anything but lifted tow rigs and big tires(im not a fan of that)

id pretty strongly reccomend lights,it may be the difference in keeping you out of a ticket. id also whip up a safety chain you can wrap around the tongue somewhere and hook to your truck. these 2 things make it look like youve put some thot into doing it safely and properly,instead of just some redneck towing an empty mobile home frame. ;)

if your truck has a 4 way plug you can get some magnetic lights at harbor freight for cheap. tractor supply sells the 4 way wire to make extensions. theybe also got chain and S hooks,and hooks with clips.

if it were me,it tow it like it sits and then give alot of thot where to cut it,but like i said,were all different. if youd rather move axles and will move them irregardless,then theres nothing wrong with your plan to cut off the rear overhang. slide it up onto the trailer and strap it down good for the ride home.

this is the frame i built the one above from:




i wish id gotten some better pics of it goin down the road 55 feet long,but it was dark by the time we were on our way. long story behind that one ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,138 Posts
Some of these mobile home axles are adjustable for Width. Some are not. I have cut down quite a few of them with no issues. Havent found any factory arch in them. I dont know might be different from the california axles. My current trailer axles have no factory arch in them either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
yeah i was either planning on shortening the wheel base by either moving the spring hangers and such forward or the tongue back. Im trying to keep it in 2 big pieces because i have a friend that wants to pay me 100 bucks for the leftovers so he can make a trailer. and im paying 200 for this thing :eek:

yeah i defiantly planned on using a chain. i still dont know about the lights im kinda a tight ass for money. maybe i will tape a road flare to the back :laughing:

the person im buying it from did say that i can modify it on site after i pay him so i think this would be the easiest. (i cant get a 50ft trailer into my driveway)
its too narrow of a road with too narrow of an opening. i would have to chop it somewhere else if i couldnt cut it down there. I hope i dont run out of gas... does this justify buying a plasma? :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Some of these mobile home axles are adjustable for Width. Some are not. I have cut down quite a few of them with no issues. Havent found any factory arch in them. I dont know might be different from the california axles. My current trailer axles have no factory arch in them either.
did you cut them down like i was saying above or did you use a different approach?

Just for fun here is a picture of the truck i will be hauling :D
(not too heavy)


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)


got the trailer. this is how i transported it. it wasnt that bad except for a couple really narrow spots in the road. and i wouldnt drive through any towns with it this wide. its just a 20ft trailer now tho. 30 ft of it is stacked on it. i just cut a section out of the center and the back off.

i had two large red flags on the back. i passed 3 cops without any prob but they may have been off duty it was the afternoon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
anyone know what i should make the wheel base? i feel like it should be like 4 ft shorter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,379 Posts
Usually run 60% of the bed ahead of the axles.
If you are adding a beaver tail, add just a touch to that.
If you obviously had someone running as a follow vehicle, and with all the yellow flapping away, it sorta shows you meant well,,,,,,,,:D, maybe it was donut break time when you went past them,,,,,,:grinpimp:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,178 Posts
so you cut a section out of the middle,then welded it back on to tow it? :confused: and now you still need to move the axles? it would have been easier on you to cut off all the side pieces- youd have then only been 7ish feet wide instead of 10. the ones ive drug home i worried alot more about the width than i did the length.

by wheelbase i assume you mean the axle placement? id personally put the axle centerline at 60%,not 60% ahead of the axles.

there is another formula... place the axle centerline 1" past the decks middle point for every foot of deck. for a 20' trailer,youll put them at 20" past the 10 foot mark,or at 11'8".

60% of 20 feet is 12 feet,so it works out pretty close to the same.

i love trailer builds of any kind,lookin forward to seein more pics :)

i personally would leave it 20 foot. if you want to cut it down,i wouldnt go shorter than 18 foot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Yeah good intentions can go a long way haha!

and i was more worried about making the tight country road 4 way stops than the width. im not cutting the side supports off completely just trimming them down. i would have cut them but i wasnt sure what i was going to do at that point. i also wanted some good sized pieces that my friend wants to buy from me to build his trailer. $75 plus some equipment enamel :)

Right now its a 20ft deck plus tongue so its 23ft or so.
im going to shorten it more to have a 16ft deck plus tongue. (it will fit my truck perfectly)

I think im going to place the axles at the center point of my deck so the weight of my truck is on them mostly. (would that work out? i wouldnt want the trailer trying to lift the tow rig off the ground.

And i am definatly doing a beaver tail. (i dont want to make ramps :shaking:)

more pics to come if i ever finish my homework today :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,178 Posts
no,you dont really want centered axles. that will make the rear part of the trailer more less useless. while too much tongue weight is bad,not enuff is just as bad,or worse. youll want some tongue weight for it to tow good,and the axles slightly rearward will help you achieve that while making efficient use of all the deckspace you leave.

consider leaving it 18 foot. 16 may fit your rig perfectly,but 18 will leave some room for your spare tire,toolbox,camping gear,a quad,etc. it also makes it easier to drag home bigger,full size parts trucks :D

whatever you decide for deck length,put the axle centerline at 60% or use the above formual. that will give you the most useable space on your deck and leave wiggle room forward and backward so you can position your rig and whatever other gear you carry optimally to get good tongue weight.

one last bit of advice... those side pieces are flimsy. dont rely on them to support your outter deck. if you want to leave them in place,fine... but definately add something more substantial to them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
i was only able to work a couple hours today. didnt get much done.




put the tongue under the bed so it rides level. next im going to move the axles. im going to get everything mocked up before i burn everything together.

the strings are where im going to cut the sides. im going to add more side supports and beef up some stuff. mostly with the metal that i cut off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,379 Posts
Nightcrawlers is 100% correct!
60% to the front of the CENTER of the tandems!!!!
(too much cough medicine, and I typed it in wrong!!)
Good catch !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Nightcrawlers is 100% correct!
60% to the front of the CENTER of the tandems!!!!
(too much cough medicine, and I typed it in wrong!!)
Good catch !!!
ok stupid question but is it 60% of the length from tongue to back or 60% of the deck length?

it is now a 16 ft deck and has a 3 ft tongue. i was just going to but it in the center of the deck so the axles get the weight of the truck. The springs are real stiff they were bouncing when i was going 20-35 mph. but that was unloaded of course.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,178 Posts
ok stupid question but is it 60% of the length from tongue to back or 60% of the deck length?
there is another formula... place the axle centerline 1" past the decks middle point for every foot of deck. for a 20' trailer,youll put them at 20" past the 10 foot mark,or at 11'8".

60% of 20 feet is 12 feet,so it works out pretty close to the same.
it is now a 16 ft deck and has a 3 ft tongue. i was just going to but it in the center of the deck so the axles get the weight of the truck. The springs are real stiff they were bouncing when i was going 20-35 mph. but that was unloaded of course.
no,you dont really want centered axles. that will make the rear part of the trailer more less useless. while too much tongue weight is bad,not enuff is just as bad,or worse. youll want some tongue weight for it to tow good,and the axles slightly rearward will help you achieve that while making efficient use of all the deckspace you leave.

whatever you decide for deck length,put the axle centerline at 60% or use the above formual. .
:confused: i thot i had answered your questions,allready,but ill give it to you one more time. use 60 % or tthe above formual for the deck length.

for a 16 foot deck:
60%= 9.6 feet,or roughly 9' 7"

or

8'(deck center) + 16"(1" for every foot of deck length) = 9'4"

so put your axle centerline 9'4" to 9'7" from the front of the deck.

once again,do not center your axles. youll be loading your rig forward of the axles to get good tongue weight,leaving the rear part of the trailer useless.

loading your rig right over the axles will result in a light tongue,and trailer sway. this will ultimately result in the deaths of you,the busload of nuns,and everyone around you :flipoff2:

otherwise,lookin good. :smokin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,379 Posts
Believe me you do NOT want the axles in the middle of the deck !!!
You need the centerline of the axles @ 60% !!!!!
You NEED tongue weight!
If you do not have enough, the trailer will whip, and the tail WILL wag the dog!
Been there, done that!!!
What welding process are you using to weld this all back together?
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top