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Ok, I looked in the search but didnt come up with anything. Has anyone personally fab'ed up some "cutting brakes" on there rig? I am interested in how its done, possibly including this into my Jeeps future plans after the hydro steering... Thanks for any info.


<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Well what do you mean by a cutting brake. On a sand rail a cutting brake is a lever that actuates one sides rear brakes, so if you want to turn left you lock the left rear and basically pivot around that wheel. This works if you have open diffs or an ARB. If you don't then what a lot of ARCA guys are doing is installing line locks and locking both rear wheels, and then in front wheel drive kind of pivoting around the rears. This is good for competition but probably not worthwhile on the trail where it is OK to back up.
 

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Well, I haven't DONE it yet, but I'm kinda in the middle of it.... what I did was buy a cutting brake mechanism from a dune buggy shop. It has a single input line, then 2 output lines, with a cylinder on each one. Take your single rear line, plumb it in, then plumb an out line to each rear wheel. I just haven't got around to putting it in yet. I've tested the theory, and it DOES work - yu can pivot right around the wheel you lock. Hard on u joints, I suspect.

Chad
 

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Why not put in two line loc solenoids, one by each rear caliper and wire the switches to the dash. One for left and one for right, step on the brake & flip the switch to lock either rear wheel and release. Make you turn and flip the switch to off.I think it would be a lot easier to install than a cable set-up(if you have drums) or a lever style cutting brake.
 

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a couple small master cyls. and levers would be easier/faster/cheaper...imho
You could use ball valves instead of the line-locs to save money.
I bet a motorcycle master cyl (ft or rear) would move enough oil for turning brakes. jmho
 

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I have been thnking about doing somthing like this on my XJ. I want to just put in a second e-break lever and connect one cable to each lever. I wouldent ues them to turn though, since I'm a cheep ass I have an oven diff and I would use the break to stop the wheel w/o traction from spinning. Of course this would prob caus the axle with traction to stap so I'm not in much of a hury to do this.
 

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i was thinking about adding them for a while until i realized...why? i don't compete so i don't get points for backing up. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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u mean so it would move like a catipilar dozer? i thought about doing that but i think it would put too much of a stress on most parts
 

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Originally posted by high5:
<STRONG>i was thinking about adding them for a while until i realized...why? i don't compete so i don't get points for backing up. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Ladies and gentleman, this is the 'Best Answer To A Tech Question' winner for today!!!!(golf clap) everyone give a high five to 'High5'! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Take the rest of the night off, y'all deserve it!! <IMG SRC="smilies/csmile.gif" border="0">
 

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I'm wondering what roggys set up was running an auto/trans with two brake peddles, front and rear or left to right? TLC he was driving at clean up.
 

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Originally posted by high5:
<STRONG>i was thinking about adding them for a while until i realized...why? i don't compete so i don't get points for backing up. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I don't compete either, BUT they do come in handy if you do REALLY tight trails because you don't have to do as many multiple point turns. This might sound like a trivial thing - unless you trail involves several multi point turns every 8 feet. We have one like that, I use the technique on it and it saves a LOT of energy on my part, plus it is more accurate - I spend less time scraping stuff on the sides because I was not able to get the rig 'precisely' where I wanted it. The way I look at it is that it is always nice to have options, and this one is relatively easy to employ. I have heard that some use line locs to lock BOTH rear wheels and this works as well or almost as well.
 

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If you have anything other than a selectable locker (or lsi) I don't see how it will work...if you lock the left rear and apply power...most likely through 100:1 or greater...if the right side turns it will force the left side to turn also. Unless you have a selectable locker it seems you would need to disengage power to the rear axle and just turn in fwd.
 

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The way it works is:

you have to have a locker that WILL differentiate (either detroit type or ARB, spool is no good)

You have to be able to get fwd (twin sticked)

You put the transfer case in fwd. This disconnects the rear axle. Because there is no tourque going to the rear wheel, the locker WILL differentiate.

You lock up the inside rear wheel. If you are turning right you lock the passenger rear wheel.

You turn the wheel right and give it gas.

It will pivot around that right rear wheel.

go here:

http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/movies/farm2001/clips.html

there is a clip of cutting brakes in action. In this particular clip, if this person did not have cutting brakes and simply took a back up to get turned around, he might get in danger of rolling.

I don't know if this rig has an ARB or what, but I know it works with a detroit.
 

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If you have a rear arb you might be able to leave it in 4wd unlock the rearend and apply the brake on the side you want to turn to. It should still work. I have also heard that having seperate rear e-brake levers will work also. That is as long as you have e-brakes <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 
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