Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just bought the '85 DRW Dana 60 and 10.25 Sterling (which will likely get replaced with a 14 bolt) for a 1984 fullsize Bronco project. I wheel an '88 Bronco (stock drivetrain) right now, so I have a feel for how they move and react on the trail.

My question is, what are some ideas to get this pig trimmed up? I know they weight +/- 5000lbs. stock. With tons and possibly a doubler, link suspension and 44's, it's going to be fawkin' heavy! I do plan on back halving the rear and tubing it, and using the stock body panels as skins or some aluminum skirts..don't know yet. It has a mild 302 in it now and will likely stay there for awhile, until I get a severe itch for a 351 stroker or 460. I have plans for chromo shafts and Dedenbear knuckles for the front 60, but what kind of results have people had with heavy fullsize rigs and built tons? 90% of what I do is rock crawling (Disney being my main spot) and have plans to head both east and west once I get behind a reliable/proven rig. But I definetly want to shave some weight.....

Let's hear some ideas! Or what others have done to cut back...I'm desperate for some ideas here and anxious to get hacking on this thing!

Thanks, Jon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,465 Posts
build a buggy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I know I know, and am still contemplating that, but love the challenge of wheeling a fullsize rig in a sea full of buggies and Jeeps. I knew I would get that response sooner or later....

Any more ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
I know I know, and am still contemplating that, but love the challenge of wheeling a fullsize rig in a sea full of buggies and Jeeps. I knew I would get that response sooner or later....

Any more ideas?
Are you talking the obvious (ditch the top, tube or half doors, small poly-fuel cell, gut the interior, light tube bumpers, aluminum rims) or are you looking for bronco-specific tips?


hick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Are you talking the obvious (ditch the top, tube or half doors, small poly-fuel cell, gut the interior, light tube bumpers, aluminum rims) or are you looking for bronco-specific tips?


hick
Yes, it's going to be a truggy-- the top will be gone, half or tube doors, tubed out rear w/ skins, fuel cell and am going to gut the interior for a custom set up. I will probably have steel wheels in the end as I'm doing DIY beadlocks, so I'm up for any weight saving tips anyone can think of!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Yes, it's going to be a truggy-- the top will be gone, half or tube doors, tubed out rear w/ skins, fuel cell and am going to gut the interior for a custom set up. I will probably have steel wheels in the end as I'm doing DIY beadlocks, so I'm up for any weight saving tips anyone can think of!
Fiberglass hood and fenders, poly-carb windshield; after you get the body as light as possible, start picking at the drivetrain (may want to reconsider the doubler).


hick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
All of the glass will be removed including the windshield. How much weight savings is there going with a single case (whether it be an Atlas/Stak or something else) over the doubler? If it's 50-100lbs. I will not be purchasing an Atlas/Stak at this time, mainly because I want this thing on the trail. Thanks.

Jon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
All of the glass will be removed including the windshield. How much weight savings is there going with a single case (whether it be an Atlas/Stak or something else) over the doubler? If it's 50-100lbs. I will not be purchasing an Atlas/Stak at this time, mainly because I want this thing on the trail. Thanks.

Jon
couple of hundred pounds probably...I know 205s and 203s are not light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Really I didn't know it was that heavy...the doubler will have to stay for awhile until I get bored with it and want more options. Are there any other options for a transfer case with good gearing/options that doesnt cost $2,500+ ?

I also plan on hacking all of the inner fenders and more than likely will go with a fiberglass hood...any more ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,926 Posts
Consider a Borg-Warner Tcase???

the 1345 was used in early-mid 80's F-250 and 350's and has a low range ratio of 2.74

The 1356 was used in all full size Fords from the mid 80's untill 96. I think the low range is in the area of 2.62

Either one is light enough that even my scrawny ass can lift them in and out by myself, and hold up to abuse fairly well as long as you build a stout skidplate under them. Dont use the factory skidplate- it hangs too low and is flimsy anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Consider a Borg-Warner Tcase???

the 1345 was used in early-mid 80's F-250 and 350's and has a low range ratio of 2.74

The 1356 was used in all full size Fords from the mid 80's untill 96. I think the low range is in the area of 2.62

Either one is light enough that even my scrawny ass can lift them in and out by myself, and hold up to abuse fairly well as long as you build a stout skidplate under them. Dont use the factory skidplate- it hangs too low and is flimsy anyway.
These are both chain driven cases aren't they? How quickly do the chains wear out? My current Bronco has a BW1356 w/ bald 35's, a 351W and stock drivetrain (I think 3.08's or 3.55's) and it does OK in 4-Lo, which is where I keep it 90% of the time. The axles I bought for the next project have 4.10's in them already and I plan on going 44's. Would this equal out to be about the same performance as the 1356 with smaller tires and the 3.08/3.55 gear ratio?? Or worse? I realize I will more than likely end up re-gearing but want to get this thing going. I'm just looking for options...

Thanks for the replies guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,926 Posts
I am not aware of an issue with chains wearing out. Biggest problem I hear of with the 1356 is the oil pump. I have been running a junkyard sourced BW1345 for about 3 years now with 44 inch ags at first, then I upgraded to 49 inchers last spring- haven't had any problems yet. I mostly wheel in dirt/ mud/ shale, but I do my share of traveling to play in some rocks too. If you are going to run with the 4.10's already in the axles for now, you most definitely will want the extra gearing that the BW cases offer over the 205- maybe even consider a 4 speed for the nasty low first gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Do you think I'd be better off with one of the BW cases anyway over the 203/205? Being the 203/205 setup has 1:1, 2:1 and 4:1....

A 4-speed is probably a no-go, just because I like the automatic off road (even though at times a launch on a manual would be sweeeeet)

I see an Atlas or Stak in my future being I can't decide what the fawk I'm going to do now...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
If/when I end up swapping gears, they'll be 5.13s or 5.38s. But I haven't yet decided. I don't know how many people are actually breaking ring and pinions out there....and I don't even think I drive hard enough...but who knows...

The ultimate goal is to make this thing as close to un-breakable as I can. I don't have the know-how or tools to rebuild/thoroughly work on my rig on the trail and hate having everyone stop to help me out, so I'm going to try to get this thing as light as possible while using strong drivetrain components.

I actually just ordered a set of Yukon 4340 35 spline shafts and Spicer joints earlier today. I know, these are the cheapest set of aftermarket shafts and joints for the 60, but it's a start and will get upgraded in the future if need be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Consider a "Black Box" rather than the doubler. Lighter than a 203/205 and less expensive than Stak.

Narrow the front.

I haven't had it on a scale but here is the Carcass:



More pics for ideas in the link below.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Is the "Black Box" Stak's "B-Box" on their website? If so, they appear to be as much as the regular Monster cases...if not, what are you referring to and where can I find information on it?

I did a quick search and found a thread on here from OX (with a Black Box/205 combo, but it said it was invalid, so I'm back here....

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Meh on the Ranger cab... I enjoy wheelin' the fullsize, makes it more of a challenge in alot of spots..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
http://www.northwestfab.com/blackbox.html

I run an NP205 and Klune-V. A black box and new process t-case would be lighter but I like the gear drive of the NP205 and it's strength. The balck box came out after I bought the Klune-V. Both are god units but he black box has an additional bearing over the Klune V and you do not have to adjsut the endplay.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top