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Funny,
I have a Warn on my currant t-case. (which I thought about selling off) I'd need a special gear from Herm (which is almost what I paid for the case) and may need to do additional case reinforcement.
 

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I'm pretty sure nobody makes an overdrive gear that fits that low of a ratio. Last I looked, you could get the gear for the 3.50:1 (I think it was) jack o'brien/madrooster gearset, but that was as low as you could go. I'm guessing the input gear can only get so small before it simply doesn't have the room inside for the planetary stuff. I could be wrong, kinda hope I am... that would be a neat setup!

If you paid what I think you did on the case, man you got a deal. I think they were around $2000 when they were available.
 

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I wasn't planning to use an O/D. With 3.73s I'm at almost 115 to 1 in crawl and with the 4.27s I'm looking at 131 to 1. It pays tlook around and be patient. Yes, I got a real good deal, I have the reciepts for the build and know full well what went into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I wasn't planning to use an O/D. With 3.73s I'm at almost 115 to 1 in crawl and with the 4.27s I'm looking at 131 to 1. It pays tlook around and be patient. Yes, I got a real good deal, I have the reciepts for the build and know full well what went into it.
I was thinking the overdrive would be nice for a middle low range. Overdrive in low would be like 3.6:1(ish), still pretty low.

1st/high range and 4th/low range still overlap a little bit with the 4.86 gears and a granny 4spd.
 

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I was thinking the overdrive would be nice for a middle low range. Overdrive in low would be like 3.6:1(ish), still pretty low.

1st/high range and 4th/low range still overlap a little bit with the 4.86 gears and a granny 4spd.
You are correct on the numbers. Not sure if the gear is avilable to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
There is some very good tech in this thread. :smokin:

Lets talk about parking brake disc conversions, I've seen a few pictures but have never read any details.

This Toyota kit could possibly be retrofitted
https://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupbrakeupgrades/33

Or possibly a go kart disc and caliper maybe?
I think it would be pretty easy. There is already a nice flat mounting surface on the rear output housing. A rotor could be cut and bolted to the back of the factory rear flange easy enough. The caliper could be just about any mechanical spot caliper.

Wilwood Mechanical Parking Brake/Spot Calipers - JEGS

If you where creative you might even be able to make a factory style cable that would be long enough to activate the caliper....
 

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If I have understood D18 things correctly...

Can the oem e-brake equipped D18 with the driveshaft flange mount accept a 1350 yoke?

Redrill oem e-brake flange for new flange-mount 1350 half (don't know term) that accepts 1350 caps?

Or is a whole new flange available that fits D18 e-brake rear output and uses 1350s?

Also, anything available to allow flange-mounted Toyota (FJxx) u-joints (tough for size with high angle capabilty)?
 

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In an older version of my Flatfender I had toyota axles, minitruck front and FJ45 full float rear.... I made a custom Flange adapter on the factory output flange to adapt it to the beefy Landcruiser driveshaft joints...if I remember it used counterbored holes and stover nuts on the factory studs and tapped fine thread holes for the toyota flange bolts..
 

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Was the flange info more of a hardcore forum question?


So far, this thread has great info I'm soaking up, but still needs the usual info to be a full-reference bible:

1. All gear sets available.
2. What ODs and PTOs work with what gear sets at the PTO output. Who has the mating gears (some sources mentioned already).
3. For each aftermarket gear set, what exact mods must be done to a D18 case and a D20 case and does the OEM vehicle make/model's case source matter? (universal Jeep/full-size jeep D18 vs. D20 plus Bronco D20, etc.). O'brien's Gears should get most of the attention here.
4. Is AA tapered roller bearing intermediate shaft still available and what is necessary to install it into each of the OEM, O'Brien, Tera gear sets assuming a 1.25in intermediate shaft bore case.
5. Best/strongest input/output shafts available whether new, NOS, or used oem spicer.
6. Any issues with aftermarket gear sets: weaknesses, noisy, etc.
7. Comprehensive shifter options/mods, etc.
8. Front output driveshaft connection options: Yoke/flange, 1350/other up-sizes, etc.
 

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Interesting idea. Homemade, too. Thanks.

Now to google Stover Nuts...

...ah, the common type of top-locking nut. Great. :)
In an older version of my Flatfender I had toyota axles, minitruck front and FJ45 full float rear.... I made a custom Flange adapter on the factory output flange to adapt it to the beefy Landcruiser driveshaft joints...if I remember it used counterbored holes and stover nuts on the factory studs and tapped fine thread holes for the toyota flange bolts..
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I will try and tackle some of these....

1. All gear sets available.

1.97:1, in the very early military stuff
2.46(ish):1, in most civilian early jeeps with the D18. There are a few different versions though.
3.15:1, with the Tera Low gearset
3.5:1, O'brain gearset, don't know if they are still available
4.1:1(ish), O'brain gearset, don't know if they are still available
4.86:1, O'brain gearset, don't know if they are still available

2. What ODs and PTOs work with what gear sets at the PTO output. Who has the mating gears (some sources mentioned already).

Tough one really, especially with the PTO stuff. 'Herm, the overdrive guy' and Advanve Adapters are probably the most common sources.

Any stock ratio, overdrive, and PTO is possible I think with Herm's Parts.

AA has a TERA 3.15 compatible overdrive gear.

3. For each aftermarket gear set, what exact mods must be done to a D18 case and a D20 case and does the OEM vehicle make/model's case source matter? (universal Jeep/full-size jeep D18 vs. D20 plus Bronco D20, etc.). O'brien's Gears should get most of the attention here.

This stuff really just isn't known anymore, or at least common knowledge. From what I remember you need to mod the case for more clearance with anything lower than the 3.5:1 O'brain gears. The 4.86:1 version required a pretty substantial mod to the case with a large plate welded in to create more clearance.

The D20 case has the largest inside dimensions from what I have been able to find BUT is not a direct swap for a D18 case.

4. Is AA tapered roller bearing intermediate shaft still available and what is necessary to install it into each of the OEM, O'Brien, Tera gear sets assuming a 1.25in intermediate shaft bore case.

Still available, but with so little info on gearsets its just a guess. I don't think many people have this info anymore.

5. Best/strongest input/output shafts available whether new, NOS, or used oem spicer.

I think OEM shafts are the best. I have not been that impressed with the Omix type stuff.

So far, there is only one size option, stock, for the D18 that I have seen. I have looked at making a new rear output shaft for other reasons. The part isn't really THAT complex but I doubt anyone in the aftermarket is going to step up for such an old case design with such a niche market.

6. Any issues with aftermarket gear sets: weaknesses, noisy, etc.

The straight cut gears on the low range side are going to be noisy pretty much no matter what.

7. Comprehensive shifter options/mods, etc.

Not really much you can do to the D18 with it's design. The only thing that is common is the ability to be able to do 2wd low range. You do this by leaving the interlock pill out or grinding the rails to allow it.

8. Front output driveshaft connection options: Yoke/flange, 1350/other up-sizes, etc.

Just need to dig out the Dana/Spicer catalog and look. Both the front and rear outputs use the same spline. This is also the same coarse 10-spline as the Dana 20 also.

If I remember right you can get a 1350 u-bolt yoke fairly easy.

The hardest yoke to get right now is a good quality 1310 u-bolt style yoke. They where discontinued at Spicer as far as I can tell. You can get an import version.....

1310 CV yokes are still available, they work front and rear.

You can swap out the flanged rear yoke for a normal u-bolt or strap yoke on the rear output. This is NOT just a bolt on however. You need to have a spacer on the rear output shaft to get the yoke in the right place. This also eliminates the rear output e-brake.

As far as I know there is NOT enough room on the stock 1310 flange style factory rear yoke to redrill it to 1350. The flange does not have a lot of extra room for holes. It is basically just the bare minimum material for the 1310 bolt pattern.
 

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There is some very good tech in this thread. :smokin:

Lets talk about parking brake disc conversions, I've seen a few pictures but have never read any details.

This Toyota kit could possibly be retrofitted
https://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupbrakeupgrades/33

Or possibly a go kart disc and caliper maybe?
I used All Pro Offroad for my disc setup.

Tons of great info here. Getting ready to rebuild my D18 and add twin stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
That is crazy....

Looks like some kind of D18/20 hybrid.

Does the rear output function full time and/or change speed in low range?
 
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