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Both outputs spin at the same time/speed and it only spins when in gear. I think its a dana 20 with the outputs and everything off of a 18 but im not sure never have been able to really find out, but i haven't looked really hard either. Not sure why you would do this either, but it has given me crazy ideas for putting two axles in the back of something.
 

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My guess would be that it was some type of PTO device that was disabled, and enabled down the line. IE: Dump bed, or any other device. Willys was the workhorse of that era.
This.
Its a rear output PTO. I have one that does both front and rear on my 47. Research it a bit over on thecj2apage.com Some of them are worth a bit of money.

On a second look, that output has speedo provisions, maybe someone was trying to make a pto out of a D20 rear output? weird
 

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The spicer brown lipe PTO from the farm jeep has the same style flange
this type of driveshaft was used on the rear of some kaiser/jeep vehicles it looked like a big steering shaft block/pin joint (also used on the 2wd Jeepster rear driveshaft)
 

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I used All Pro Offroad for my disc setup...
Did that All Pro disc set-up enable the use of Toyota u-joints?

What work & mods did the install entail?

Any experience with using that disc parking brake to hold your rig near-vertical on a steep incline?
 

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I used all D18 parts so not sure about the Toyota stuff. I am using all 1310 ujoints, front and rear.
The majpor mods were I had to machine the center opening on the disc a little to clear the flange. Also had to build a mount on the skid plate for the caliper.
It has been about 6 years since I installed it. It worked gerat for most of those years but like many D18's it is starting to leak a little and the gear oil is getting on the parking brake, I sometimes will apply slight pressure to the brake and drive for a while to "burn off" the oil.
 

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Just as a heads up, if you have an Advance Adapters SM420 to D18 adapter, and want to run one of their tapered bearing conversions (Which is awesome by the way) you'll either have to take a carbide burr to the adapter to clear the castle nut on the back, or possibly install the shaft backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Just as a heads up, if you have an Advance Adapters SM420 to D18 adapter, and want to run one of their tapered bearing conversions (Which is awesome by the way) you'll either have to take a carbide burr to the adapter to clear the castle nut on the back, or possibly install the shaft backwards.
Interesting.

I am pretty sure the front part of the intermediate shaft bore is smaller the rear part....or the OEM shafts are tapered ever so slightly. My OEM 1.25" shaft was REALLY tight the last 1/2" or so.....like deadblow hammer and swearing tight.

Anyways, might measure the AA parts to see if they CAN go in backwards?
 

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Interesting.

I am pretty sure the front part of the intermediate shaft bore is smaller the rear part....or the OEM shafts are tapered ever so slightly. My OEM 1.25" shaft was REALLY tight the last 1/2" or so.....like deadblow hammer and swearing tight.

Anyways, might measure the AA parts to see if they CAN go in backwards?
They're installed right now, and I'm not about to go pull it apart, ha ha. Called AA and was transferred several times to different tech guys. One actually had to go get an adapter and look at what I was talking about before giving me a blessing to go at it with a carbide burr.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Does anyone know the thread size of the factory breather port on the front output housing? It's not 1/2" NPT :)
 

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So if the D18 is used with sm465/sbc 350 and running a set of 36in tsls will it withstand the bind or will it break? I am just doing some average wheeling and wondering if i need to dig into it or not, it has a set of new gears with the original gear ratio. Where is a cheaper place to get an adapter to the sm465 Novak is a little out of my price range im thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
So if the D18 is used with sm465/sbc 350 and running a set of 36in tsls will it withstand the bind or will it break? I am just doing some average wheeling and wondering if i need to dig into it or not, it has a set of new gears with the original gear ratio. Where is a cheaper place to get an adapter to the sm465 Novak is a little out of my price range im thinking.
Driven responsibly it should hold up. They are a dang tuff little unit.

Anything can break though. Make sure your driveshafts are not binding. If they bottom out on the slip they can cause the outputs get snapped off. The same goes for running out of angle capacity on the u-joints, if your axle droops and binds the u-joint you have a pretty good chance of snapping off the output.

Keep all the bolts tight, especially the adapter bolts, front housing bolts, and rear housing bolts.

There really isn't a cheap option for D18 adapters unless you find someone used. A T18 with a factory D20 adapter is about the least expensive option if you can adapt it to your engine and transfer case housing ( it is a large 4" bore adapter ).

If your set on running the sm465 you either need to pony up the money for a quality adapter, hope you can find one used, or have your own machine shop to make your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
A few more misc notes....

The fill and drain plug is 1/2" npt. McMaster 1072A23 is a nice little 1/2 pipe plug with a female 3/8" Hex 'head'. They have a magnet attached to catch the gunk. They are $3 each. They also work in most old transmission drain and fill holes. These female head plugs give more clearance also. They do need a wrap of teflon tape to seal properly I think.

The screws that hold the bottom pan are 5/16-18, 5/8" long. I am going to try some flanged units with the vibration ridges on the bottom. I hope these will put a little more even pressure on the bottom of the pan. They still need the threads sealed and locked if possible.

I was able to find a Timken seal for the shift rails.
(also a national cross.......NATIONAL Part # 471466)

Part Number: 470009
Weight: 0.045 lbs
Notes: 2 required
Maximum Working Temperature (°F): 225
Minimum Working Temperature (°F): -40
Package Quantity: 1
Seal Housing Bore (in): 1.124
Seal Housing Material: Steel
Seal Installation Style: Press Fit
Seal Lip Material: Nitrile
Seal Outside Diameter (in): 1.13
Seal Shaft Size (in): 0.625
Seal Width (in): 0.252
 

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Help if you can please

So I saw this thread while surfing for possible feedback and I thought I might give it a try and see if anyone here can help as it all seems Dana 18 related.

I have a 76 CJ-7 with 400 cube SBC + TH400. I decided to do away with the quadratrac last year May when original Morse chains were discontinued.

I ordered an Advance Adapters Th-400 / Dana 18 adapter, and built up a large hole dana 20 case as a Dana 18 configuration.

Novak hardened intermediate shaft, full rebuild kit including brand new timken bearings.

Brand new Rear output shaft sourced through Novak, OE unit, not Omix.

Decided to go with the Tera Low 3.15:1 gearset, and built the unit to spec.

Now jeeps of that era are few and far between in South Africa, so getting help here is really a thumbsuck at best so I really don't bother much with local technical advice.

Bottom line, the transfer case is so noisy at normal range driving its unbearable. The noise starts as a loud drone at low speed becoming a loud whine at high speed. As a test I decided to install stock 40+ year old gears in the case as comparison, much much quieter, still makes some noise, but not nearly as bad.

So I called Tera Low and queried if the excess noise could be because of their gears, they kindly shipped me a complete new set of gears with gasket set NO CHARGE!! to compare, big big thumbs up to the Tera team, thats service!

Same damn noise all over again, I've tried different viscosity gear lubes in the case, no notable difference, I've checked and re-checked the rear shaft end play, no notable difference again.

I've got a friend with a CJ-5, Dana 18 with Fairey overdrive unit, stock gears, and its quiet, like really quiet.

So where am I going wrong, I'm considering throwing a piece of stock in the lathe and cutting up a taper bearing system for the intermediate gear / shaft, but I'm not certain just how much this will effectively reduce noise.

Alternately I'm considering just purchasing the Dana 20 rear sliding gear and converting the whole affair to Dana 20 with centered rear out, but this means a whole damn axle change, exhaust re-routing and brake re-engineering at the very least.

Am I expecting too much on the dana 18, is it a really noisy case, or maybe someone out there has had a similar experience with the Tera Low gears, not really sure where to go on this one, but I would really appreciate feedback if any!

With real thanks - MArco 7
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Tough call. My old 'custom' unit that had the homemade input gear for the custom adapter was pretty dang noisy.

My new case, I just got done building, with all oem/spicer parts is surprisingly quiet. I can still hear it, but it is WAY better than I ever thought it could be.

What kind of speeds are you running? I don't think these old transfer cases are designed to run super high speeds on the road. I think about 50-60 is their happy speed in the long term.

If the stock gears made a huge difference over the Tera gears that is probably the tera gears fault. I would have thought that the new Tera gears would have been quieter than stock? I don't think Tera would have sent you another complete set of gears if they didn't know the gears could be a problem.
 

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I agree with Meiser. TeraLow's make noise, but stock ones don't sounds odd to me, but does say it must be the TeraLow. I've been running Tera's for over 10 years with no problems. I did have a noise back in 06, so I swapped in a NOS set, but still had the noise. Turned out it was my ages old Novak adapter from the TH350C had worn out. Novak rebuilt it at no cost, and would even hear of me paying anything. I put my Tera's back in at this time, and haven't had a problem since.

Meiser's T-case is better than mine though, because mine leaks!
 

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Thank you Mieser.

Our speed is in Km/Hr so MPH would be a lot lower, but my max speed in town is about 60km/hr, freeway driving about 100km/hr so I guess that would top out at about 60mph max.

I hate to think the Tera gears are at fault, but then the older stock gears are quiet so i'm starting to make my mind up in that regard.

Nothing much happening in the office today so I went out to the local steel merchant, bought 2 pieces of 1,75" x 7" stock and I'll start turning a custom taper bearing intermediate shaft when i get home tonight.

I also picked up the correct timken bearings & cones, with a bit of luck I should have the taper roller system running by the weekend if of course my lathe will cut the intermediate gear without annealing.

If not, I'll get a quality machine shop to do the gearcutting for me, but first I try!

Either way, if the noise is still as before, then I can still use the taper system in a dana 20 setup, but I really really do not want to go the centered diff route right now..
 

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MrWillys I completely understand about the leaks!

The last thing I want to do is create a negative impression on the gears, but it is what it is, ultimately I also thought that there could have been an adapter issue, but its a brand new AA unit with brand new bearings, plus with the stock gears the noise is much much less so I guess I've just hit bad luck in this regard.

Admittedly the Tera gears look like a work of art, very well machined, and despite the noise I could not see any noticeable points of wear or possible contact points due to misalignment. The Tera team told me to run the gears in for a few thousand miles to see if the noise reduces in some or other way. Problem is this is not my daily drive, a few thousand miles will take me 5 years! I've had varying comments locally about the wearing in bit, not really sure if it will work.
 
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