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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the dilemma. I am building a SOA YJ with 1.5 RE fronts, custom XJ rear pack (yes I have an anti-wrap bar), 8.8, HP30, 4.88 gear, locked and 37” tires. This rig is a semi-DD and primarily going to be in the rocks. I have read several threads and yes, I can and have used the search feature.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php <-for anyone who wants to use it. :D

My question is; without going to a D60 or anything of that matter, what is the next best option for the front axle?

Here are some of the options I have thought of.

Option 1: D44
I have debated using a D44 but having he same outers as a D30, locating a good donor and spending close to the same amount of money to build it up is not to appealing. The D44 option is to get a custom built D44 from 4 Wheel Supply for $2400.

Option 2: Ford 9”
After calling Currie Enterprises and getting slapped with a $3400 bill, I was a bit turned off on that idea. The 9” also has the same u-joints as a 95+ D30 unless you want to spend stupid money.

Option 3: Superior Super 30 Kit
“Why polish a turd?”….might as well get that out of the way because someone is going to say it. Superior alloy 30 spline induction harden axle shafts with an ARB included for somewhere around $1500. Not so bad but you are left with a week R&P and a small case and a $1500 bill.

Option 4: CTM U-Joints or some other stronger joint
$250+ and run it till it breaks but then spend it again to replace it?


Right now I am leaning toward either option 3 or 4. Any other options, suggestions and comments are welcomed. Thanks in advance.

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The 44 is probly your best choice, but if I were you going through all this I would look into a D60. With the 60 you can use stock shafts and still be ahead of the game. It will cost a little more than a d44, but not as much as a custom 9". I went to a d44 and then to a 60 and I would say if I did it all again I would start with the 60.

When you get tired of your 37's the 60 will be upgradeable enough to take whatever you want to throw at it.
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All of your options except for #4 cost the same or more than a dana 60. Look at extreme axle sales and price their 60's. I have a 44 right now and as soon as I get a little more dinero it is going to a set of 60's. Besides, if you plan on running 37's, you are pretty much at a 44's limitations. I'm not even going to mention how much a waste of money doing any upgrades to a 30 is when considering 37's. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
You mean some of these....




:smokin:

I have both a HP60 and a FF 14 Bolt for a different project but wanting to keep this one a little simpler and more of a DD. Doesn't seam to be going that way... I already have a 8.8 with gears and a locker on order and was getting ready to order stuff for the D30 and wanted to get a second opinion.

I am getting mixed feedback from the threads I have read. Mrblane and Bill Vista, I believe, both once ran a HPD30 with 35+ tires and had great luck. Anyone have any experience with a HPD30 and 35"+ tires?

Thanks cdub0451 and comeonstart for the info.
 

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Budget??????
If you are on a budget go CTM joints and superior 30 kit.

If not go the 9", It is very strong and very light. The only problem with a 9" is they tend to bend pretty easy. I have ran the 9" front and rear on jeeps for years and they work great.
 

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Budget??????
If you are on a budget go CTM joints and superior 30 kit.

If not go the 9", It is very strong and very light. The only problem with a 9" is they tend to bend pretty easy. I have ran the 9" front and rear on jeeps for years and they work great.

That 30 can be strong , but running 37 inch tires , your pushing it big time . You better be the smoothest driver around .
 

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I have a D44 from a wagoneer and run 37s. The buildup was about $1200, but a good part of that was for brackets for a TJ. For a YJ it would be a lot cheaper, and the outers are stronger than a Rubicon 44. I'm running the stock shafts, but so far they have help up fine.
 

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60/9
Its not much more expensive than a 9'' w/ 44 or 30 kncukles on it. It will be just as strong as a 60, lighter, and cheaper than building a equal 60 (assuming you were cutting oune down) There are many other 9'' builders than Currie.

Or option 5: Cromo shafts in the 30 $450 or so. YOu can still carry your stock shafts if you do bust one and get you home or wheeling again fast. We all know D30 shafts are easy to trail fix. This way you can have some fun until you save some $ or are ready for a big boy axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think I am going to run Alloy USA chomoly 27 spline shafts and keep spares. If one breaks, replace is with a stocker on the trail and send the broke one back and take advantage of the "no questions asked" warranty. Speaking of that, how are Alloy USA’s “no questions asked” warranty policy?
 

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I think I am going to run Alloy USA chomoly 27 spline shafts and keep spares. If one breaks, replace is with a stocker on the trail and send the broke one back and take advantage of the "no questions asked" warranty. Speaking of that, how are Alloy USA’s “no questions asked” warranty policy?
That sounds like a good plan. Truss it up real good and run a 4.xx something gear and you might be ok.
 

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I have been running a HPD30 with Superior evo shafts, yukon super joints, detroit, 4.56 and 35s for several years.

I never fail to be amazed by how much punishment this weeny axle can take. I do 3.5 - 4.5 trails most weekends. I have broken all kinds of other stuff but the D30 is still hanging in there.
 

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Mr. DJ
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I have been running a HPD30 with Superior evo shafts, yukon super joints, detroit, 4.56 and 35s for several years.

I never fail to be amazed by how much punishment this weeny axle can take. I do 3.5 - 4.5 trails most weekends. I have broken all kinds of other stuff but the D30 is still hanging in there.
Bet your a smooth driver , and don't loft the front end much .
 

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Or you could just go ahead and put the one ton axles under it. How are they gonna make it not able to be a daily driver. Then you wouldn't have to worry about changing axles while running 37's. You ain't gonna break them. Unless you do some crazy Duke boys creek jumping shit.
 

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I'm thinking the 4.88 is going to be your concern more than the D30. Any chance you can go 4.56?
I skipped the Super 30 kit and went with an OX and 27 spline Alloy axles. I'm banking on borrowing a trail spare if I break one. Oh, I don't wheel hard either
All this and a D35 (super) too, and 36 Irok's. It's only a time bomb untill it breaks









 

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I say waggy 44 and upgraded shafts. I'm running a Ford F250 44 with late 80's Chevy outers, moly shafts (Warn outer, Dutchman inner), 5.13's, yukon joints and 38" TSL's. No breakage yet. I'm mostly in the rocks, alright always in the rocks.



Find a waggy 44 (they're a dime a dozen), chromo shafts for them are relatively cheap, gears and parts are abundant and cheap and many interchangeable (ie just run chevy outers, knuckle out) and you can do hi steer for cheap which is a big deal in the rocks (I'm sure you know that).
 

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I go easy on my Waggy 44 with the original 21 year old shafts and joints in my TJ with 37's. I have done all of Tellico with no breakage after 2 1/2 years. Did I mention I go easy on it. It all depends on the driver. If I start breaking I will go to Chromolys and CTMs.
 

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Polish the turd and you get a stronger piece of shit.

Do all the work to swap in a D44 then you'll just end up polishing that piece of shit too.

Then you'll get mad and rip it all out and swap in 1tons. :D
 

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i say just make it a super 30. I have a super 30 and it works great with 35's. Never broken my damn 30-orginal owner too!. :shaking:
 
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