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Discussion Starter #1
As I was contemplating the fine tuning of my drivetrain in anticipation of the 390 stroker I'm building, I wanted to get my pinion angles as dialed in as I can.

The rig is an 81 ramcharger, D44/9.25. Since the passenger spring perch is part of the diff housing, rotating the housing is out of the question... so I'm reduced to shims only. That being said, what's the largest shim that you guys have run, personally? I need more shim than I can get (pinion angle is 15 degrees off of where I want it at the moment), but an 8 degree shim will at least bring it into the realm of non-bind and relatively sane joint life.
 

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How much lift are you running to make it bind real bad?
 

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DO NOT SHIM THE FRONT AXLE! If you change the angle of the front axle, you also change the caster angle and your truck becomes a darting, unsteerable nightmare on the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
As far as rotating the front goes, once I have the pinion angle where I want it, I'm going to cut the welds and rotate the knuckles to bring the alignment back into spec. This build is being geared as a long term setup, so my finicky perfectionist nature is willing to deal witht he hassle of getting it all as close to "perfect" spec as I can.

The suspension is a skyjacker 4" lift, all spring, no blocks. I've already grenaded ujoints in it while drooped out, due to binding issues. I gotta say, those springs flex like crazy. That part of the build is one thing that turned out quite nicely.

The compromise on it may well turn out to be 8 (or custom 10 degree) shims, and rotated knuckles. It won't be perfect :( But without pulling the axle and milling the pumpkin, it's the only real option.
 

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Ok, if you are going to rotate the knuckles, shimming is an option. Most won't rotate the knuckles due to the difficulty. Remember that if you keep the double cardan joint at the transfer case the yoke on the axle simply needs to be inline with the drive shaft at rest. Some have had better luck with using a normal shaft without the double cardan joint, keeping the angles at 90° and clearance the yokes. In the end, if you still have binding issues at full droop, you may have to sacrifice some of it and use limiting straps to preserve the U-joints. After all, a lot of flex doesn't do you a lot of good if if the wheels aren't pulling.
 

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Mine started to loosen the studs, and then chew the caster wedges up. that was under my buggy and behind a 4banger.

you would have to correct the contact angle on between the nut and the spring plate for this to not happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tapered washers under the nuts should do the trick as far as that goes. A nuisance, but not a huge issue... good call.
 
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