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Has anyone done this? After a lot of experience watching both in acton, I definately feel that the d44 has the stronger r&p and housing but given aftermarket options, the Toy has the stronger joint. I know it used to be the other way around, but I guess that's what 300m and chromo does for ya! :)

Anyway, if someone hasn't done it yet, is it feasable? Welding the Toy knuckles into the d44 tubes doesn't seem like it would be a big deal at all.

J. J.
 

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Has anyone done this? After a lot of experience watching both in acton, I definately feel that the d44 has the stronger r&p and housing but given aftermarket options, the Toy has the stronger joint. I know it used to be the other way around, but I guess that's what 300m and chromo does for ya! :)

Anyway, if someone hasn't done it yet, is it feasable? Welding the Toy knuckles into the d44 tubes doesn't seem like it would be a big deal at all.

J. J.
Or just have diamond make you a axle with toyota outers and FJ-80, NON-trd, trd, mini or 9" center.
 

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i think he is thinking cheap.

like i said in the other thread i think it would work if you machined the end of the d44 tubes or just butt welded it with some ball gussets. hell, anything would be stronger than a stock toy housing. also you can pick up d44 parts for cheap seeing as how everyone is going bigger.
 

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You would need custom shafts. The pressure angle is close enough for D44 shafts to fit in a toy 3rd, but not vice versa for some reason...... I haven't tried personally but have read it several times in the toy forum.
 

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Has anyone done this? After a lot of experience watching both in acton, I definately feel that the d44 has the stronger r&p and housing but given aftermarket options, the Toy has the stronger joint. I know it used to be the other way around, but I guess that's what 300m and chromo does for ya! :)
I've thought the same thing, but since I'm not a toy guy not sure as the practicality. I do like the reputation of the Bobby super birf's.

You would need custom shafts. The pressure angle is close enough for D44 shafts to fit in a toy 3rd, but not vice versa for some reason...... I haven't tried personally but have read it several times in the toy forum.

Seems to me that if your ordering custom Bobby's anyway, He could easily cut the inners to Dana spline.... hmm, wonder if he could get 33 spline out of them.... :D
 

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I think you'd be money ahead to use a front housing from a 40 or 60 series landcruiser. The r&p is stronger than a d44, and importantly if your going cheap the carrier is stronger so an aussie locker will not deflect and blow it up. I think the idea of toy outers on a 44 is interesting, but I don't see it becoming popular as the toy diffs are a much more user friendly design. And cheap. I think I heard rumors of a longfield for the rubicon 44 front. I'm not sure if thats accurate, but if so I think that would make a fairly stout axle for a smaller tired rig.

I say build one and we'll see how it works!!
 

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I think you'd be money ahead to use a front housing from a 40 or 60 series landcruiser. The r&p is stronger than a d44, and importantly if your going cheap the carrier is stronger so an aussie locker will not deflect and blow it up. I think the idea of toy outers on a 44 is interesting, but I don't see it becoming popular as the toy diffs are a much more user friendly design. And cheap. I think I heard rumors of a longfield for the rubicon 44 front. I'm not sure if thats accurate, but if so I think that would make a fairly stout axle for a smaller tired rig.

I say build one and we'll see how it works!!
Yes, he's working on one for the unit bearing D30's and rubi D44's. A birf will not fit in a standard D44 knuckle.
 

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The knuckle ball can be turned to fit into a 2.5" ID tube, I believe. The diamond housings use many tubes, but the default I believe is 3.25 x 0.375" tubing (thats whats on mine).

Bobby Long doesn't do the custom inners any more, Brian Ellinger does them @ diamond axle.
 

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why not get a d50 out of a superduty and run the 60 long:confused:
cuz that is not the topic in this thread.

AKA, he wants to combine 2 cheap axles to make one that is stronger as a whole than each individually. also, the fact that i think he has the parts to do it laying around. i say go for it. if you dont i think i will! if a toy side gear will fit into a dana44 carrier you could weld it up..... time to start crunching numbers.
 

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cuz that is not the topic in this thread.

AKA, he wants to combine 2 cheap axles to make one that is stronger as a whole than each individually. also, the fact that i think he has the parts to do it laying around. i say go for it. if you dont i think i will! if a toy side gear will fit into a dana44 carrier you could weld it up..... time to start crunching numbers.
Does the D60 long work in unit bearing applications?
 

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i have been toying with a similar idea for a while.

my variation of the plan was to run a dana 44 r/p and housing and weld on flange rings to the tubes for my land rover discovery swivel balls. they are a bolt on affair if you weld on the companion flange to the housing. the knuckles are plenty strong, but the big drawbacks are that the factory config has a behind the axle tie rod. as well as shitty ass brakes and the wierd 5 lug rover pattern (which for a 5 lug pattern is pretty strong at a 6.5" diameter).

the tie rod problem could be solved two ways, buy a euro knuckle for the disco that has r hand steering so the knuckle has a fwd mounted steering arm on the l knuckle. or run a hp ford d44 and let the tie rod run under the pinion (least favorite option). but then that leaves you with trying to figure out how to do a 6 or 8 lug hub with disks and calipers that will actually stop a vehicle.


that has lead me to want to research what it would take to just have to put in super toy birfs into the d44 knuckle by having to put the knuckle on AFTER the shafts are in the housing. tuff to get the ball joints tight tho....:homer:
 

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We asked Bobby about regular D44 Longs about a year ago. There's room in the knuckle, but not enough room in the spindle hole in the knuckle to actually put the Long in. A Ford outer is slightly bigger than a Chevy outer, but you'd still have to have a Long that is smaller than the Toyota mini Longfield.

You would need custom shafts. The pressure angle is close enough for D44 shafts to fit in a toy 3rd, but not vice versa for some reason...... I haven't tried personally but have read it several times in the toy forum.
I wonder if you could run 30-spline 10-bolt side gears in your locker/carrier to get a 45º pressure angle to match the Long chromo inners?
 

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toy side gears and welded to a D44 carrier.
If they dont fit, surely a machinist could take them down or make a bushing.

then its just getting tube lengths right and making the OEM 44 carrier Survive.

I like the idea.

Fj40 balls and outer knuckles are the same as minitrucks correct?
 

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I wonder if you could run 30-spline 10-bolt side gears in your locker/carrier to get a 45º pressure angle to match the Long chromo inners?
Might be able to do this across an ARB or a Detroit.

I know Diamond can accomodate the pressure angle difference on custom Toy inner shafts, just need to specify that it's for a 30-degree 30 spline instead of the normal 45 degree (Toyota) 30 spline.
 

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There's so many ideas in this thread, I cant keep up!

As for D44 center, to toy outer, yes you can, we could as well. And yes we can make the custom shafts for the 44 side gear.

Other ideas I saw were using the 8.4 tundra rear diff in front, this would be a good way to go. We've done these and the Diamond center is more clearance than stock 8" of course.

One idea I did not see would be using the cruiser 80 series 9.5 diff in front. We've done a few of these for just this reason, shafts holding up, diff breaking. Clearance on the 9.5 Diamond center vs. stock toy 8" housing is the same.

The most common tube size we use is 3.5 .375 wall.
 
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