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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was putting in new brakes in my 77 this weekend. Pulled the shafts to make life easier :) Noticed that I had a bunch of end play (in-out movement) of the axles when bolted in.

Anyone know how much is acceptable? Passenger side is about .1" and the drivers side is about .15". I am considering replacing the bearings and end plate.

Where can I get a HD end plate?

As for bearings, I have a non-tapered set in this truck and a set of tapered bearings in my other Binder. I have lost an axle with each type, so I am not partial to eather :flipoff2:

Thanks,
Scott

Edit: I didnt want my spelling to look like Chief's! :flipoff2:
 

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IH Only

HD Plates are available from Mike

IH ONLY
7829 West Avenue, #E-14
Lancaster, CA 93536
(661) 728-9552
Mike Ismail
 

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hey, I'm about to put my rear axle back together and can't find the torque specs for the bearing retainer plate bolts. anybody know it ?

also, I made my own retainer plates and made the center hole of the plate just a hair larger than the axle at that point. thought being if the bearing did fail it wouldn't be able to fit through the much smaller hole.

- jack
 

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morpheus said:
hey, I'm about to put my rear axle back together and can't find the torque specs for the bearing retainer plate bolts. anybody know it ?

also, I made my own retainer plates and made the center hole of the plate just a hair larger than the axle at that point. thought being if the bearing did fail it wouldn't be able to fit through the much smaller hole.

- jack
3/8 are 35-55
1/2 are 50-90
 

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have to use tapered bearings for the axle. and Timken set 10 is the only way to go.
shouldnt have more than a 1/8th" play in/out on axle end play.
the problem with a bearing retainer plate which ID is 'slightly larger than axle od is= the axle end play, axle comes out slightly, this allows some up and down movement to occur which will grind a groove in axle which weakens it.
and this also means the outer seal is not allowed to flex as intended causing leaks.
 

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We're talking CJ here but the manual calls for .004 to .008. I have always set mine at 0 to a couple thousands preload, like a front wheel bearing.
I never understood why you preload a front wheel bearing and set up end play for a rear wheel bearing so I go for a little preloadon both...09
 

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the older scout 800 with tapered axles rear were adjustable end play. the scout II with the D44 axles arent adjustable, some have end play, some dont. if when you replace a bearing the endplay is measured, put some shims behind bearing if the end play is excessive. that will remove endplay. then you can have a preloaded tapered axle bearing.
 

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Buddha's Ghost said:
Scout II older 44= .001 to .010 inch end play
Big difference from the .125 stated by the newbie.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys. I know it shouldnt be much, but the .125 recommendation sounded 'a little' off!!
Looks like I get to spend a little cash....
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice red X chief... What were you going to show me???
 

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Chief yelling alot said:
corect on the .010 to .001 I have mine at .003


That is a fancy dooohickey thingamabob attached to that axle! What is that for?:flipoff2:

I just hammered my warped retainer plate flat with a drift punch and 2# dead blow. Then bolted it up, got really close to the axle and tried to push and pull...no motion, no noise....good to go!:D




Any interest in Stainless CNC'd retainerplates?
 

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Harvester of Sorrow said:


Any interest in Stainless CNC'd retainerplates?
Wouldn't cro-mo be a better choice to soft SS?
 

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Harvester of Sorrow said:


Yes...forgot that SS is soft as compared to Chromoly...:D



You interested in some out of Chromoly...maybe Delrin?:flipoff2:
How bout Inconel?:D
 
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