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Discussion Starter #1
Whats everyone doin with the driveshafts when you have a zook t-case with the D44's ? Any easy mix-match to be found at the local wreckers ? I know alot of ppl here run custom shafts but i figure theres an alternative. Fukn Canadian dollars are more like paso's these days... And since i work at the wreckers and the boss says "parts are free" , i might as well dig in !:D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanx Rudezuk, thats very kool. But the shipping and US to Canadian dollar will kill me :eek: What did you use before 'rudezuk' became a buggy ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
moto261 said:
well you have to get well..............if i told you i would have to kill you


:massey:
C'mon moto, dont be holdin out :flipoff2: gimme the goods , then take your shot at the kill :bender:
 

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I made 2 SS flanges with the suzuki pattern w/ studs and male shoulder on one side, Saginaw clearance holes female bore on the other side. total of 1/2" thick, only 1/4" lost from flange to yoke. Bought long travel chevy blazer saginaw cv's from gloeco in AZ. Cheap and strong...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gozuki said:
I made 2 SS flanges with the suzuki pattern w/ studs and male shoulder on one side, Saginaw clearance holes female bore on the other side. total of 1/2" thick, only 1/4" lost from flange to yoke. Bought long travel chevy blazer saginaw cv's from gloeco in AZ. Cheap and strong...
gotcha.
 

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Rear is standard 1310 (1/2 ton) yoke and splined shaft. Standard splined shaft for 2" tube is welded to the origional Samurai drive shaft. Fits a little loose, but is can be dialed in fairly easily (sami tube is a little over 2")...

Front is a little more fancy. Shaft is 1-1/4" 1018 bar stock. Use a 1310 splined shaft for 1-1/4" tube (jeep front type) bore or drill bar stock for splined shaft reg and weld on. Then used Samurai slip yoke and turn bar down to run up into the yoke portion and weld.....

You can easily find 1310 slip yokes or buy extended travel versions.
 

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