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Discussion Starter #1
I have been searching but cannot find anything.

Does anyone make a non unit bearing conversion for the Ford SD D50??


I seem to be able to run through these unit bearings pretty fast. and do not want to buy a bunch after my warrranty wears out..
 

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The aftermarket unit bearings aren't so expensive anymore. Try stempf's. for a conversion you would have to buy a lot of parts, spindles axle shafts hubs... seems like it would be pretty expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
And the unit bearings are going out again :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dealer picked up the price last time.

Tell me they are not $275 a piece!!!
 

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How often are you going through them?

I assume it is on a superduty (since dealer picked it up last time)?

What size tires, etc?
 

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Conversion

Dynatrac has a conversion for the super duty , somewhere around 1200.00 if i remember corectly. GOOD LUCK Billy
 

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The best D50 unit bearing upgrade i've found is to take the axle out and throw it away. :flipoff2: I went through 4 shafts and 4 unit bearings on 35 bfg all terrains. If you aren't breaking shafts the dynatrac kit is propably your best bet. Steve gerstner (differential engineering) might have something to replace the outers also. good luck

Frank
 

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Mace,

What are the symptoms? I've got 35k on my truck since I bought it, and am expecting unit bearing problems at any time.

Thanks,

Doc
 

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Roc Doc said:
Mace,

What are the symptoms? I've got 35k on my truck since I bought it, and am expecting unit bearing problems at any time.

Thanks,

Doc
When mine went I was hearing a really loud rumble coming from the wheel. It went with no warning. We were a quarter mile away from the house on the way to the airport when it happened. I changed both sides out when I got back home from vacation. The dealer price was more like $365 ea. Hard to believe anyone would list these as a plus for an axle (seen it in other threads).
 

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I've got a couple worn-out Ford units here... :rasta:

I actually pillaged them from a friend with a 2k SD, hoping to be able to reverse-engineer a retrofit setup.

Problem I ran into is, the wheel flange is so close to the unit bearing flange, I couldn't find any way to do it without having a custom spindle and hub made. At that point, while I might be able to recycle the OE stubshaft and lockout, if the hub/spindle/bearings assembly costs four or five times as much as the stock part, why bother? Most guys aren't going to own their trucks long enough to see any return on that cost.

Other option was, it can be done using adaptation parts and old-style kingpin 60 parts, but it'd widen the front end by three or four inches flange-to-flange, and still cost on the order of a grand or more, and require a new stub shaft, and possibly a new lockout as well. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
This is on a CC F350 diesel ford with 35" BFG AT's and no lift.


I am now at 92K and have replaced the unitbearings 3 times on the DS and twice on the PS..

And it looks like the Drivers is going out again..

Symptoms are a clicking occasionally that dissolves into a groaning sound that AZrckcrawler mentioned..

Also, when you step on the brake you can feel the wobble in the steering wheel..

I am honestly thinking about swapping in a late model Kingpin D60. Course, then I have to worry about lug pattern issues :rolleyes:

Fawk..

I plan on owning this truck for a very long time. With two young kids and a wife that stays home with them I do not have an extra 40K to spend on another truck. Besides, New fords and New Dodges use the unit bearings anyway..
I have no idea what Chebby uses..

For $1200 I'll find a late model Ford and swap the axles into my rig. then sell the D50/sterling for $1200..
A D50 is just as good as a KPD60 right??? ;)


BTW, scott, you should figure out how to make a custom new spindle and then send a set to me for testing ;)
I seem to wear them out rather quickly and would be a good test bed ;)
 

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I am now at 92K and have replaced the unitbearings 3 times on the DS and twice on the PS..
:eek: :eek:
I've heard others with this problem, but daymn that seems excessive! You're rig is similar to mine, with the only real exception being that I don't have a cabover camper.

I too am running 315's (muds though), and on crappy Weld-wanna-be rims to boot. I do have my tires balanced and roatated at fairly short intervals, so maybe that helps, :confused: , I dunno. Are you running a steering stabilizer? Do you think any of this contributes to the short life, or is it just a shitty design?

Doc
 

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Jason M said:
I have no idea what Chebby uses..
4WD Chevys since at least as far back as '93 have been unit bearing, I think probably ever since they swapped to IFS. About '01+ 2WD's are also unit bearing. Not that it's much help for your Ford, more just another note of interest in the history of unit bearings. I believe Dodge has been unit bearing since about '94, but not 100% sure on that.

For $1200 I'll find a late model Ford and swap the axles into my rig. then sell the D50/sterling for $1200..
A D50 is just as good as a KPD60 right??? ;)
One of these days, Camp'll wear out the balljoints and unit bearings on his Cummins, and we'll figure out how to get kingpins and wheel bearings onto it... :evil:

At least on the Ford, you've got the advantage of that (I think) an '86-91 Ford kingpin/wheelbearing front 60 is a bolt-in except for wheel pattern, and it shouldn't be too tough to redrill a set of 60 hubs to 8 on 170. Or, pull both axles and the wheels to match, and you're done.

It's a little more involved for me to rid myself of balljoints and unit bearings (there's a buncha A-arms in my way) on my tow rig. Don't think I haven't been looking at it a bunch, though.

The other thing that might be worth looking into is, there's an intermediate balljoint/wheelbearing Ford front end, '92-96ish, that uses the same wheel bearings as the kingpin stuff, but balljoint parts. Dunno anything about that intermediate setup other than that it isn't unit bearing--might be worth looking into swapping parts around there. Wheel hubs are also the same as the pre-balljoint stuff, as I understand it, so stubs should be standard kingpin-length-Ford.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am not positive that the Dodge monkey (I had a dodge warranty on my ford) that replaced the unit bearings knew what the hell he was doing. Apparently there is a seal that goes on the backside of the bearings (or frontside for that matter I really don't know) that may have been left off.

Sooo, perhaps it is just the grease monkeys being inept..
And I have only used that cabover on my truck twice ;)

Additionally, It is about every 5-8K that I rebalance my tires..

Steering stabilizer is the stock one.
I think it is just a shitty design.. And I want Scott to make me a new one ;)
 

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Jason M said:
Apparently there is a seal that goes on the backside of the bearings (or frontside for that matter I really don't know) that may have been left off.
There is a seal that is supposed to live there, just outboard of the U-joint, around the back of the unit bearing. It's what keeps the grease in the unit bearing, and the dirt/water out. Lacking it, your unit bearings will probably live very short lives, as your grease will get out when it gets hot.

That seal is a real PITA to install properly too... presses onto the stub, and it takes a decent level of talent to get it on right.

At least there's no dust in Vegas to get in. :rasta:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One of these days, Camp'll wear out the balljoints and unit bearings on his Cummins, and we'll figure out how to get kingpins and wheel bearings onto it... :evil:

At least on the Ford, you've got the advantage of that (I think) an '86-91 Ford kingpin/wheelbearing front 60 is a bolt-in except for wheel pattern, and it shouldn't be too tough to redrill a set of 60 hubs to 8 on 170. Or, pull both axles and the wheels to match, and you're done.

Scott, I was reeeeeaaaalllly hoping that a KP front front would have the same leafspring mounts :)

that is a great bit of info..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There is a seal that is supposed to live there, just outboard of the U-joint, around the back of the unit bearing. It's what keeps the grease in the unit bearing, and the dirt/water out. Lacking it, your unit bearings will probably live very short lives, as your grease will get out when it gets hot.

That seal is a real PITA to install properly too... presses onto the stub, and it takes a decent level of talent to get it on right.

At least there's no dust in Vegas to get in. :rasta:
I bet that is the little ring thingy that is loose on my front then..

Figures...

Yeah, no dust and no heat to talk about either :flipoff2:
 

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I bet that is the little ring thingy that is loose on my front then..
Me too.

BTW, Paul (in the TK club), works in the parts dept of Gaudin. I'll check with him for bro-deal prices.

Doc, in the not dusty or hot LV
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That would be a good thing...
 
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