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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I felt bad for hijacking green rover's thread. Like i said before, i have a friend that is going to sell me a front D44 and I was thinking about getting a D60 for the rear of my Disco. But Mike said earlier that a Salisbury rear is supposedly weaker than a D60, so what is the deal. It sure as hell would be easier to put a Salisbury rear in my truck than having to do all the fab work to get a D60 to fit.

I guess my real question is, how much stronger if any is a D60 than a Salisbury?

Ok Shoot!

Brad (not TallBrad)
 

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You have got to be joking me....:flipoff2:

Fitting a rear axle is super simple. The front axle is the more difficult one. The rear is simple. Go with a regular D60 be standard and get on with it....:D Or possibly go with a off-set D70. The real problem lays in keeping the front and rear lug patterns the same. Do you want to carry two spares? If the rear will most likley be 8 on 6.5 and it is not difficult to find a matching front than why not do it. I would go D60 for both if you can.

Way
 

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Actually Way brings up a good point.

When I was thinking that you should go Salisbury I was thinking in terms of ease of not modifying it.

I wasn't even thinking about using different lug patterns, etc...didn't even cross my mind. Duh! :flipoff2:

IF (and a big *IF*), you were doing Rover axles front/rear then I'd say stick with the Salisbury. In all of my talking with Timm I have NEVER heard him say that the D60 is superior to a Salisbury. So, if I say something that sounds like I know what I'm talking about in regards to axles, ignore me. I just know what I see and experience personally. Other things I have just *heard* about. Mostly through Timm is where I get my understanding of non-LR axles.

If you're goin D44 then by all means do the offset D70 (?). Or were you thinking that you could find the correct offset D60?

In any case, my point it, that yeah, Way had the right idea when he said you should keep lug patterns the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What would you say if i had a complete 1-ton Salisbury front axle. We have one at the shop right now, but i am kind of hesitant to use it in case a customer wants it. The thing is a beast! Is it possible to find a correct offset D60? I really don't know much about these axles and what vehicles to look in for them. Being that there are only a few people around here that wheel, and the insane amount of Pick-ups in rural Tennessee, i am sure i could find one. Let me know:flipoff2:

Brad (not TallBrad)
 

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WBDISCO said:
What would you say if i had a complete 1-ton Salisbury front axle?:flipoff2:

Brad (not TallBrad)

I'd ask you if it was coil or leaf.

IF it was coil I'd ask you a lot of questions.

IF it was leaf I'd probably buy it.

:flipoff2:

BTW, I have a TLR sticker on my toolbox now. I'm starting to put 2 and 2 together and figure out that the person that I thought was you actually *is* you.

Now, if you've followed that sentence, you deserve a PhD or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mike,

I believe it is a Coil Sprung. I was supposed to be put on a D110 I think. It is still in the crate, but i am not sure if it is LHD or RHD. I will take a pic and post it. We aren't asking a whole lot for it.

Brad (not TallBrad)
 

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I guess my real question is, how much stronger if any is a D60 than a Salisbury?
A Salisbury IS a Dana 60! There was a very long and contentious discussion on the Yahoo D90 BBS about this. Bottom line, it used to be the Salisbury Dana company. The Brits dropped the Dana bit so the axle is known simply as the Salisbury.

More directly, for the rear axle on your Rover you can buy a Salisbury and avoid all the BS/hassle/expense associated with making a custom axle housing. Then build up the third member with appropriate LSD or locker and you have a super tough axle. You can buy custom axle shafts if you desire.
In all of my talking with Timm I have NEVER heard him say that the D60 is superior to a Salisbury. So, if I say something that sounds like I know what I'm talking about in regards to axles, ignore me. I just know what I see and experience personally. Other things I have just *heard* about. Mostly through Timm is where I get my understanding of non-LR axles.
Timm also told me that the Rover axle will handle 400 HP if the carrier is replaced with an aftermarket carrier like an ARB and the axles were replaced. Timm pointed out that the stock rover housing is nodular iron (like the performance versions of the Ford 9") which is very good stuff indeed. The ring gear and pinion gears were not super strong due to the non hypoid design, but how many third members grenade due to stripping out the ring gear with a 3.54 - 4.7 range of ratios and a Rover motor? If you are going to be really wild (Cummins ISB) I would have to rethink my logic, but I think you will be well off.

My thought would be to look really hard at axle choice, determine your real needs and then chose. With a disco I am betting that you are not going over 38" tires and I bet you can go with the Salisbury rear, rover front (longfield the CVs, maxi-drive axles, your choice of LSD/lockers to replace the carriers) and have a stought setup. Another would be to the D44 and Salsbury, do the previous listed mods and then change the wheel bolt pattern on one of the axles. I would look at total cost of axles, tires, wheels, and the performance bits and pick the lower cost of the two options using equivalent quality parts (eg ARBS in both pumpkins)
 

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The ring gear and pinion gears were not super strong due to the non hypoid design, but how many third members grenade due to stripping out the ring gear with a 3.54 - 4.7 range of ratios and a Rover motor?

I know of at least five.

Johnathan
 

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I know of at least five.
With after market (ARB, true Track or Detroit etc) carriers? I have no doubt that the differentials failed, but I question the cause. A lot of mechanics blame the wrong part. The two spider gear carrier supplied to North America is famous for flexing and causing that sort of carnarge. But replace the carrier, and the flexing stops. The differential should be fine then.
 

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a salisbury is a 24 spline dana 60. if you are putting a 30 spline dana 44 in the front, why waste your time on a 24 spline rearend?

the only difference between salisbury 24 spline shafts and regular rover 24 spline shafts is that the salisburys dont neck down.

sure you can buy the $600 35 spline conversion kit on top of an already at least $600 axle, or you can do it OS's way and the way that i will end up going in the back of my 88, its just easier, cheaper, and stronger that way.

i wouldnt waste my time with a front salisbury either, it still has the same birfields as a stock rover front end.
 

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Serious One said:
Wow, really? 5 *Salisbury* R&P's?

Who, what, when, where and most importantly, WHY????

Enquiring minds want to know.

Here's the front Salisbury pic.
Sorry. My comment was referring to the strength of the non-hypoid design of the rover 3rd based on the question asked: "The ring gear and pinion gears were not super strong due to the non hypoid design, but how many third members grenade due to stripping out the ring gear with a 3.54 - 4.7 range of ratios and a Rover motor? " . NONE of the failures I referenced were in Sals axles. All had uprated carriers(ARBs mostly). Should have clarified that in my original post! I remember Greg J. talking about the weaknesses of the sals he used to run in his 90, but I think as 9v pointed out, it was in relation to axle strength.

Johnathan
 

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9V said:
i wouldnt waste my time with a front salisbury either, it still has the same birfields as a stock rover front end.
TRUE, unless you get a leaf-sprung Salisbury front axle. Then you get the beefy UJ's used in the series trucks, with a greater capability to upgrade the UJ's later, and then a little later than that you'll be able to put in TRACTAS!!!

Hehe.

But, with the coiler Salisbury axle you get the biggest disc brake system Rover ever offered. MUCHO bigger than stock coiler.
 

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OS,

The tracta's that you're familiar with are *probably* the old Dodge version.

I asked Timm about why they have a bad rap, and apparently even though the design is very strong, the materials that were used back 'in the day' were inferior.

The 80-inch series ones all used Tracta's, and are considered by many to be the strongest axle LR ever offered.

Timm is knocking around the idea of resurrecting the design but using much more modern materials and having them CNC'd.

He's looking into it bit by bit. Right now he's got a big project about 80% completed, and once it's done I *think* that the tracta's are coming soon after.

Like I said, all of my axle knowledge is heresay, with a little bit of practical real-world knowledge tossed in.

:flipoff2:
 

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this brings up another topic for me (sorry to hijack for a bit)

for now on my 88" i just want to run 33s. right now i want to just throw detroits in it front and rear but i am unsure of what to do about upgrading the axles.

for the rear i am pretty sure i will just go HD 24 spline, but the front is an issue. how strong are series UJs? would just upgrading to 24 spline shafts with stock UJs be strong enough to be reliable and not have to worry about it?

i dont want to spend the money on custom 297X shafts just to break one and then have to spend a bunch of $$$ to get a replacement, or to waste a UJ and then have to replace both shafts.
 

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Adam,
I have a friend with a 109, small block Chevrolet, 35 MTR's and stock rover 10 spline in the front. He HAMMERS his truck. He has an extremly heavy right foot, and I have yet to see him break a front axel or ujoint. With a stock 2.25, and 33's I would say you are fine. I would uggrade the rear though. If you do break, I would guess you have a pile of stock front axels laying around from all of the past projects/part outs, and if not you are just getting full use out of your axels befor you upgrade. :D

-Jeff
 

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JSBriggs said:
Adam,
I have a friend with a 109, small block Chevrolet, 35 MTR's and stock rover 10 spline in the front. He HAMMERS his truck. He has an extremly heavy right foot, and I have yet to see him break a front axel or ujoint. With a stock 2.25, and 33's I would say you are fine. I would uggrade the rear though. If you do break, I would guess you have a pile of stock front axels laying around from all of the past projects/part outs, and if not you are just getting full use out of your axels befor you upgrade. :D

-Jeff
makes sense but i dont want to dump the money into a 10 spline locker in the front just to break it or have to upgrade it. hmmmm, maybe ill weld it :D
 

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a salisbury is a 24 spline dana 60. if you are putting a 30 spline dana 44 in the front, why waste your time on a 24 spline rearend?
Exactly, since a Salisbury is a D60, why not swap in a D60 detroit or ARB! You would get a better price, and could go with larger axles and more splines. I still think you would come out ahead considering that the you would not have to modify the piss out of a domestic D60 axle.
 
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