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Discussion Starter #1
I'm want to make my own cross over steering arms for my d60 front. I have a drill press to place the holes with and a machine shop friend who is going to cut the metal, all I need to know is how to make that taper at the top of the steering arm bolt holes. Do I need to buy some sort of reamer bit? If so, what degree and size?

J. J.
 

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A good quality ream that size will probably set you back not much less than just buying a made arm. www.offroaddesign.com can probably help you out with a arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do you know what size I am talking about? It's not big at all. I'm looking through the Grainger catalog right now and reamers range from $2 - $112, depending on size and use. But even for $112, it's still cheaper than buying the arms! And I don't need a Snap-On-quality reamer, just something that will do 8 holes. If it lasts any more, maybe I can even make some money doing it. My buddy at the machine shop, I'm sure, has them, but I'm feel bad asking him for so many favors. I also don't want to borrow his reamer and break it.

J. J.
 

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I forgot what the exact specs are, but the D60 steering arms use the same taper as lug nuts. So if you can find a lug nut and measure the taper, you can use that. I know Ant from SRC uses lug nuts on all of his D60 steering arms.
 

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i believe he is talking about the tie rod taper not the conical nuts to affix the arm to the knuckle
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by mj:
<STRONG>i believe he is talking about the tie rod taper not the conical nuts to affix the arm to the knuckle</STRONG>
I think you might be right. I need to know info. about the conical nuts that attach the steering arm to the knuckle.

J. J.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just out of curiosity, though, what are some companies that sell them besides Offroad Design and Avalanche?

J. J.
 

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When I made my arms I took one of the nuts with me to my machine shop guy and he made the tapering bit.
Easy to do if you have the right tools.
 

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If you are talking about the tie rod taper hole, you need to match it to the tie rod end that you want to use. GM normally uses 1.5" per foot for the taper.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
We're talking about the holes that the studs go through to connect the arm to the knuckle.

J. J.
 

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Oh my, you guys are confusing. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> In my first post (number 4 on this thread)I was talking about steering arm to knuckle bolts (use lug nuts and the lug nut taper). Then someone (MJ) said you may be talking about tie rod tapers. So I posted again saying what the tie rod tapers were.
 

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The sets I made for a for a few 60's have been just fine and It isn't too hard to do. I made a Hi-Steer/X-over for my 60 in the 93 Toyota......
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, after talking to alot of people, I think I'm going to try to make my own. What do you use to get the big holes in the center for the kinpin? Just a big drill bit or a hole saw, or what?

J. J.

[ 09-26-2001: Message edited by: patooyee ]
 

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The taper for the 4 nuts that hold the arm is not that critical. I used a 7/8" drill bit and called it good.
 
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