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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One Ton Axle Wheel Stud Links...

Some of this may not be one ton specific, but information is decent.


H2/79 Ford D60/Wheel stud question:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353536&highlight=wheel+stud


Dana 70 Disc Brake Conversion:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237141&highlight=dana+60+70+wheel+stud


Press fits for knurled wheel studs:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=712032&highlight=wheel+stud


Bastard D60 Disc Swap Help:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=702114&highlight=wheel+stud

79 Ford HP Dana 60 front wheel stud conversion:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=670655&highlight=wheel+stud


Dodge D60 wheel studs:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=637506&highlight=wheel+stud


Redrilled Rear D60 hubs, with info on stud selection:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=600385&highlight=wheel+stud
 

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keep em coming this is awesome tech.
 

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I just read up on this a bit in the 60 Bible (page #1: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html) and found this in it. Kinda give a good description of it.

60 Bible said:
A note on studs:

Basically when they list studs, they list the thread and pitch of the studs (i.e.: 9/16-18 or whatever), the length of the stud (which is the length of
the part the lug nuts thread on to), and diameter of the 'knurl', which is the splined part of the stud, and often the length of the knurl (called the
shoulder length).

Dorman part # 610 - 283 is the part number for the STANDARD 1 ton Chevy, it fits 77-91 Chevy trucks. 9/16-18 thread, 2 17/32
long, .650 shoulder, 15/16 shoulder length.

Dorman part # 610 - 303 - fits 77-91 Chevy trucks. 9/16-18 thread, 3 inches long, .678 shoulder, 15/16 shoulder length. It is
identical in most measurements (including thread) to the 610-283, except that it is somewhat longer and has a knurl of .678. In actuality, the ones I measured never mic'd to more than .672.

My friend Chad who did a DRW-SRW conversion reports:

"If you find that even Dorman 303 is too small, Bicknell Racing Products sells a wheel stud, part number BRP2059, which is 5/8 Course thread, 2.75
inches long, .685 shoulder with a .800 shoulder length. This stud was meant to be used in a hole drilled out to 43/64, which is the exact size of the
hole I used, so this is the stud I ended up using, and I can report that it fits quite nicely into a 43/64 hole. They also sell another wheel stud,
BRP2075, which is exactly the same, but 3.75 inches long. The shorter stud worked fine in my application, but some people may want more stud sticking
out. BRP2051 is the lug nut that matches, but I think any 5/8 course lug nut would work fine."

The important thing here is to select the studs you need to use FIRST, measure the knurl diameter carefully (mic it) and then have the holes drilled slightly undersize for a proper tight interference fit. Standard class V interference fit (tight - semi-perm. assembly) the interference (shaft bigger than hole) should be between 3 and 18 thou. Given this, and the fact that the measurement of the knurl will be the major diameter of the splines, I would shoot for a 15 thou undersize hole. Given the measured knurl size of .672, this would mean a hole diameter of .657. A 21/32 drill bit is .656250, yielding an interference fit of 15.7 thou. That should be just about perfect, but MEASURE TWICE, drill once!
 

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My D70 already had 5/8" wheel studs, so i drilled my D60 hubs out to run them front/rear.




The studs are (Dorman p/n#) 610-215
The nuts are (Dorman p/n#) 611-044


Both have a ".1" counterpart (IE, 610-215.1), which i believe is a left hand nut/stud. The studs list as "Dodge Truck 93-72", and the nuts list as "Ford Truck 1965-48". They are available at damn near any auto parts store out there.
 

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For Dorman part numbers, The ".1" at the end of the part numbers just distinguishes between "bagged" and "boxed" - i.e. it's for retailers and means nothing to us.

i.e. 610-188 is the same part as 610-188.1, just that the .1 is an individual bagged stud, and the other is a boxed quantity (10 I think ?)

Here are some pics / specs of 9/16-18 studs:




610-188



610-189



610-194



610-301



98739



98741





And here is the entire Dorman wheel stud / nut catalogue in pdf:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/wheel_studs/Dorman%20Wheel%20studs%20&%20nuts.pdf
 

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Lug nuts come in either 60* seat taper, 90* seat taper, and sometimes "flat face".

Note thet the angle is the total angle of the seat taper, as shown in this pic:



i.e. a 60* seat is two 30* tapers, and a 90* seat is two 45* tapers.

I believe most automotive wheels use 60*, but dually trucks and heavier often use 90*.
 

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When drilling holes for the lugs, Dorman state that the hole should be .017" to .027" smaller than the size of the knurl.

That makes my guess from several years ago (quoted above out of the 60 bible) pretty close!

Cool, needed to drill a few holes for my tire carrier and needed a stud that matched my 5/8 drill bit:homer:

These should work. .645-.625=.020 or .658-.625= .033
 

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So I turned down my front DRW hubs to make them SRW hubs and then moved on to the wheel studs. As a good pirater I read the D60 bible and bought the Dorman 610-303 studs.... THEY DO NOT WORK!

So here is what I learned, the 610-303 have either changed or they weren't right from the start. I can see no way they would work in a Chevy front Dana 60 hub period.

Here they are Dorman 610-303's:

Notice that the knurled area only goes up a little. It isn't long enough to clear the rotor - much less press into the hub.

So the solution is to just get the stock wheel studs... (Imagine that :shaking:) and run Dorman 610-283's.



These have the knurl where it is supposed to be and can be pressed in to the hub.

The knurled area measures 0.645" (advertised as .650...) - I used a 5/8" bit (0.625") and drilled my hubs - factoring the natural slop of a cheap drill bit/cheap press and I was probably making 0.630" holes making the interference fit about 0.015 - which according to the D60 bible is perfect...


So DO NOT BUY Dorman 610-303 for your front Dana 60 build.... Save you time and money.

From another post I made a few weeks ago... Highlights: the 610-303 sucks...
 

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So is there still no solution for longer wheel studs for a chevy d60? I was just getting ready to order 610-303s. Glad I read this first. I only have about a 1/2" of stud to thread onto with my classic IIs I'd feel much safer with 3/4 or 1" of thread. 610-194 works great for the 14 bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you mean front studs, so far as I can see, no.

Unless you are willing to drill out the hubs/ rotors to accept a slightly larger shoulder.

I contacted ARP about custom studs a few weeks back, and haven't heard anything.

I'm pretty frustrated.

I might just go ahead and drill the hubs/ rotors, and deal with it.:shaking:
 
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