[charlo]

First a cool trick for the mud trucks, drill the bottom diffcover bolt hole all the way through. Use a small enough bit it doesnt damage threads and you have free drainplug.

Now my question. I got a lot play in the lower connection(king pin?) from knuckle to housing. That is just a big ass bearing or what? Anything need to be pressed? Can I do it in the street in front of my house? Any one have P/Ns? Thanks.

Charlo

 

[charlo]

So I got the part #706395x. I think thats everything I need for one side(off shakers site). Does the bearing race need to be pressed on? I checked hayes and chiltons and the ones I have all show D44s.


Charlo

 

[charlo]

cmon, Some one must have changed the lower knuckle bearings at some time. Does no one know?

Charlo

 

[k5Dan]

there is a service manual here http://coloradok5.com/dana60manual.shtml dont know if it covers what you need but hope it helps

 

[BillaVista]

Some pics and part number here for ya:

http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/billaVista/60_front/Dana 60 Front Axle.htm

 

[mj]

all that is down there is a race and a tapered roller bearing
the race, like almost all races, is beat in place with a race and seal driver and a hammer by the pros.
the rest of us use an old race and a block of wood

 

[Shaker]

cmon, Some one must have changed the lower knuckle bearings at some time. Does no one know?

Charlo

1'st knock out the old race/cap with a punch from top to bottom. Install the "tin" bearing cap 1'st, then install the bearing race (I use brass punches for this), install bearing, put bearing cap/seal then slide knuckle back on and insert kinpin from bottom and bolt it in.....done.....pretty simple.....

 

[charlo]

Thanks for the link billa, I got the parts already but some one was saying that shit had to be machined on or someting that didnt seem to make sense. But they also say you gotta have your studs pressed in and rotors turned every time. I needed a real world opinion like MJ or Shakers cause even knowlegable parts guys wont give you the real scoop. Thanks guys.

Charlo

 

[Shaker]

Thanks for the link billa, I got the parts already but some one was saying that shit had to be machined on or someting that didnt seem to make sense. But they also say you gotta have your studs pressed in and rotors turned every time. I needed a real world opinion like MJ or Shakers cause even knowlegable parts guys wont give you the real scoop. Thanks guys.

Charlo

There is no machine work needeed to change the lower kinpin-someone says their is they are full of shit. Studs you can knock in/out yourself with a brass punch. Rotors turned is bullshit unless one is screwed up and you think you can salvage it. You can do the whole job under 1 hour...with time to drink a beer-LOL. Get busy.....Later-Tim

 

[charlo]

You can do the whole job under 1 hour...with time to drink a beer-LOL. Get busy.....Later-Tim

I like the way work.


Thats my only problem learning from a hayes manuel. Sometimes it is hard to know which corners to cut. :flipoff2:


Charlo