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Discussion Starter #1
So I have always had problems with getting water in my wheel bearings and I think I have finally figured out why, but I still have a question on my D60 assembly.

So we are clear I am using Dynatrack knuckles and (I believe) Chevy 6 lug spindles. By having to replace all of my bearings yet again (third time) I called Parts Mike this time for the hardware. Fortunately the guy there was very knowledgeable and after describing my problem and my set up he identified that I was missing some parts. I was specifically missing the seal (#59) that goes right behind the bearing inside the spindle that the axle rides on. I was also missing the spacer (#58) and maybe one more seal (#56 in the pic)? I did have a seal that was part of a metal plate (#56?) that rides on the back of the stub shaft. The seal I got from parts mike that looks like #57 but it does not have the metal part, but maybe I just reuse the metal part that I have and that is #56? I have not gotten a chance to look at that yet as I am not at home.

Unfortunately the shop that built my custome axle left these seals out and I was just going down to the parts store each year and replacing all of the bearings, races, and inner wheel bearing seal. I have also already replaced all of my seals for my 35 spline Warn locking hubs because I was suspicious of the O-rings that go on the hub bolts.

So here are my questions that I could not find answers to in the D60 bible.
1. What is the best way to remove the bearings that are in the spindle that the axle rides on (#60). I have a long punch but it does not get a good bite on that bearing and seems to just slip off? I have a pilot bearing removal tool that I thought I could use like a bearing puller, but the jaws just keep slipping off. Any suggestions on this?
2. What direction do these seals and beveled thrust washer face (#57, #58, & #59)? I feel pretty dumb having to ask this, but I just don't want to screw this up again and I did not have these parts to reference upon disassembly

I thought for sure that I would find my answers in the bible but, much to my surprise I could not find those details. Thanks for your help and here are some pics to reference.
 

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My bearings inside the spindle were good so I never chanced removing them. But a brass drift should work.

Well seems my camera batteries are dead so I will have to explain this as best I can.

On the axle, you have two seals and a brass/plastic washer dealio.

Plastic washer goes on first with the beveled edge pointing in so its flat .
Large rubber seal(#57) goes around the outer edge with the flared out portion facing outward.
Little rubber seal (#59) goes over the stub and down to the very bottom sitting flush with the brass/plastic washer dealio(#58) It faces with the flared edge outward aswell.

Note: This is how my Chev D60 came apart, I put it back together the same way, my axle had the brass washers and they were in good shape (replaced recently) so I left them.

HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, so plastic washer on first with the bevel pointing in (towards the diff). Then the large rubber seal goes around the outer edge of the plastic washer (?) with the flared out portion facing outward (towards the tire, away from the diff). Then the small rubber seal (which I think I can install right into the spindle next to the bearing) goes next with the flared part facing out (towards the tire, or towards the bearing it is sealing).

I know I just repeated what you said but I want to be sure, sound right?

Thanks,
JW
 

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You have the orentation right on the way the seals/washers point but there are two things.

The large seal has its own lip to seal on. Does your stub shaft have a large steel circle plate about 4-4.5" in dia. ?

There should be a area for the large rubber seal to go over and then a 1/4" raised section with a slight lip for the plastic washer to go in/on.

The small rubber seals slides down the stub shaft and snug against the washer, it doesn't go into the spindle, it does seal the bearing but it rides close to the plastic washer.

I really wish I took more pictures, it would make this alot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Does your stub shaft have a large steel circle plate about 4-4.5" in dia. ?
Yes, this is what I was referring to in my original post "I do have a seal that is part of a metal plate (#56?) that rides on the back of the stub shaft."

I never did see if this seal can be removed from the metal plate, it sound like you are saying yes, it can be replaced with the new seal I have.

Thanks for all your help, I think it is starting to make sense now. I mostly needed to know which direction the lips face on the seals.

Cheers,
JW
 

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I would just replace the seals with the Ford new style, they work very well and keep everything out. These will work for any factory D60 Spindle with rebuildable hubs.

National seal 710413
National seal 710414
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would just replace the seals with the Ford new style, they work very well and keep everything out. These will work for any factory D60 Spindle with rebuildable hubs.

National seal 710413
National seal 710414
I guess you are saying that if I get these it will be obvious on how they are installed and what they replace?
 

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Yep pretty much.

The one seal you tap into the spindle it rides right next to the spindle bearing, the other seal slides over the stub shaft. It would make sense if you saw them. I hope. LOL
 

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Yes, this is what I was referring to in my original post "I do have a seal that is part of a metal plate (#56?) that rides on the back of the stub shaft."

I never did see if this seal can be removed from the metal plate, it sound like you are saying yes, it can be replaced with the new seal I have.

Thanks for all your help, I think it is starting to make sense now. I mostly needed to know which direction the lips face on the seals.

Cheers,
JW
Yes that seal can be removed, its a tad tricky to get it back on all greased up but its doable.

I just wish I could have shown you a picture, would have made 1000x more sense then writing ever could.
 

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To get the inner spindle bearing out use a brass drift or a slide hammer with a pilot bearing adapter. Using a standard punch will dork up the bearing surface :homer: .


To put the new bearing in, put the bearing in the freezer for a few hours, put the spindle in the oven at about 200F for an hour or so. The bearing will pop right in. Putting the seals in will be more obvious when you have it apart, it's not too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Right on, I think I got it now. So now that I have got the outer stuff figured out I need to remove the ARB in order to replace a leaky axle seal. Do I need a spreader for that? I pulled the bearing caps off the diff and it does not want to come out, I am guessing that this means I need a spreader?

I was told by a few people that in order to remove the ARB to just unscrew the brass line from the housing (in order to properly deal with the air lines). Unfortunately the brass line has a flare in it because it won't pull out from the brass fitting that is/was screwed into the housing. There is a ferill in the brass fitting and it won't slide over the brass tube in order to be removed from the fitting. Do I need to cut the brass tube since it has this flare in it? The flare is not obvious but considering the ferill will not slide over the tube I am guessing that it is flared.

So I guess my questions now are:
1. Do I need to cut this brass air line in order to remove it?
2. Do I need a spreader in order to remove the ARB?

TIA!
JW
 

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1- Cant help you with it, never played with one.
2- Just because its an ARB doesnt mean you need a spreader, could be a Detroit and still need a spreader.

With that said, most people swear on using a spreader, others say its a good way to crack the case.

I have read on PBB that some people use two long pry bars on each end and simply enough "pop" it out. Others use the spreader method.

Sorry I cannot be of more help.
 

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Oh yeah. The Bearings are a PITA to get out.
I broke my Internal Bearing puller today so Now I'm back to using my brass Punch set.
 

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I am trying a set of the Longfield Spindle bushings.
They replace the Bearing and seals.
My guess is the Bobby's spindle bushings were not invented at the time this thread was started.


Not for the OP, but those who run into this thread on a search:
 

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Oh yeah. The Bearings are a PITA to get out.
I broke my Internal Bearing puller today so Now I'm back to using my brass Punch set.
I pry the outer lip up. Maybe cut it a little with a small sharp chisel. Remove the rollers. Then drive the chisel in from the end on the outside edge to make a small cut. Then start rolling the case in from the back. You only need to collapse it a tiny bit and it will get loose enough to pull out with your fingers or needle-nose pliers.
 
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