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Discussion Starter #1
79 Ford d60 front axle with a brand new Yukon zip locker, 4.88 thick gears, Yukon hardcore hubs, solid axle Chevy knuckles, chevy stuff from knuckles out, newer super duty style 2 piece inner axle seals. I doubt any of this matters but want to give all the details just in case.

Zip locker engages fine but will not release. Solenoid releases air when it is cycled, I've taken air line out of solenoid also, no leaks heard from inside of differential nor does the fluid have bubbles, everything gets bound up even with tcase in 2wd that you have to lift tires off the ground to get one of the hubs to unlock. I figured maybe this was the issue and have tried going straight both forward and backwards, turning the wheels some while going forward and back, and even jacking it up off the ground and it still wont release.

I called Yukon about a week ago or so and they suggested hooking a vacuum tester like a mityvac to the air line and see if it will release. It will release when you do this, I'm told this can be a common issue if the seal inside sits for a long period of time but will go away after being cycled after a few times and gets oil around the seal. I've cycled it this way about a hundred times now, even sprayed some wd40 down the air line and left it pressured up for awhile then cycled it with the mityvac a few times.

Does anyone have any ideas before I have to tear this thing all apart?

I'm really not looking forward to tearing it down because those 2 piece axle seals are stupid expensive and will more than likely have to be replaced and will be a pita to get the shafts out of them, the inner part of them presses over the shaft itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you bother to check your housing and spindles for straightness when it was apart?
Not with a alignment bar or anything. Looked good visually but that dont mean shit :rasta:
I didnt notice any issues installing the axle shafts or anything the first time around with the regular style seals in it. I assembled it and filled it with 75w90 then about a week later came out one morning to a puddle of oil underneath of one of the c's.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I absolutely do not understand why everyone is so infatuated with the modern axle seals. .

2p seals suck. They are considered 1 time use.
That's correct. Good thing about them though is it makes a old set of pitted axles usable again.
 

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If it's getting that bound up, are you sure it's a 4.88 gear? I've seen a lot mis boxed.
Does it unlock when on jack stands?
 

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I would not spray wd40 or other penetrating oil in the air line for o-rings. it will deteriorate the rubber and ruin the seal. I would drive it around a while and put a few miles on it with the hubs locked. This will get everything spinning and lubed up. Also as the fluid gets hotter it will flow better.

Did you happen to test it in the housing before putting the cover on and gear lube in?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would not spray wd40 or other penetrating oil in the air line for o-rings. it will deteriorate the rubber and ruin the seal. I would drive it around a while and put a few miles on it with the hubs locked. This will get everything spinning and lubed up. Also as the fluid gets hotter it will flow better.

Did you happen to test it in the housing before putting the cover on and gear lube in?
No I did not. Assumed being new it would be good to go but that sure has bit me in the ass.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Taken it out a few times now and locker seems to slowly be getting better. Takes at least a few minutes after engaging it for it to finally unlock still but I havent had to put the vacuum tester to it. Has probably 10 miles or so on it now with the hubs locked in 2wd and 4wd.
 

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if the exhaust side of the solenoid has a sintered metal filter, have you removed it to see if it is plugged off with oil/debris? Yes, I read that it is exhausting, but maybe slower than the zip would like.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
if the exhaust side of the solenoid has a sintered metal filter, have you removed it to see if it is plugged off with oil/debris? Yes, I read that it is exhausting, but maybe slower than the zip would like.
Yeah I think it has one of those little POS filters on it, I dont think that's the issue though because I have disconnected the line both at the solenoid and at the diff itself just to check if it was restricted anywhere by chance.

It used to be only way it would unlock would be pulling a vacuum on the air line to suck it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pulled the locker out today, it's gotten better after some use but still has a mind of it's own on when it wants to unlock. Takes anywhere from a few minutes to 10 minutes and snaps/pops when it finally releases.

I pulled the spindles off and just let the axle shafts float in the knuckles and tubes as a test to see if the housing was bent or some shit. Wiggling shafts around, turning driveshaft both ways, turning each axle shaft, etc I couldn't get it to unlock so I pulled the damn thing.

Put air to it out on the bench and I could hear it thud and lock but still didnt want to unlock when I released the air. I pulled the bolts holding the 2 halves together and it instantly sprung up as I pulled the last bolt out and the air piston deal inside of it was still all of the way out in the engaged/locked position. I put air to it to blow the air piston out and found it had a bunch of white grease on it and inside of the air housing. The plastic locking collar deal that the air piston presses against seems to be moving freely inside of the housing and locking up the ring gear side spider gear and pops back to the released position as soon as I release pressure on it.

I'm going to try to get ahold of Yukon tomorrow and see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Talked to Yukon today, they want me to send it in to them for warranty. Hopefully Wayne hartwig can find my receipt from buying it from him so I can get their return from filled out.

Messed around with it on the bench and the problem is that the locking cage/collar deal is springing back when air is released but it isnt going back far enough to fully slip off of the gear. Couple little taps with a hammer and a punch moves it that last little bit and it releases fully.
 
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