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Discussion Starter #1
i just put a solid front axle on my 95 sonoma and im gonna regear to 4.10s front and rear. i have a high pinion non-disconnect dana 30 up front which i beleive is from a TJ or XJ but not sure. the 30 has a 3.55 ratio so i need to get a new case when i do the gear change which means i have the option of a locker. since i dont have the disconnect axle, it would be best to do a selectable locker but i would like to go with a detroit. besides the warn manual hub conversion, what are my other options for getting manual locking hubs on this axle? ive heard of swapping the entire dana 30 outers for ones off of an older jeep with manual hubs, but not sure what jeep this will come off of and if it would be easier (cheaper) to do the warn conversion. any thoughts?
 

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The high pinion 30 is out of an XJ.

Mile Marker also makes a kit for manual hubs on the 30. I know it is cheaper than the warn. I've seen other posts on other boards saying it wasn't as strong as the Warn kit, though. I went with the Warn kit when I did my 30 and I thought it was worth every penny.

I don't have any personal experience with swapping CJ outers with manual hubs but I don't know of any reason why it wouldn't work.
 

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You can't just swap CJ outer knuckles on there. They are different, I believe they are the same as 44 knuckles. You would have to change the inner knuckle (the "C") part also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cuz the solid axle kit i got is set up for using the coil setup on TJs/cherokees/grand cherokees. the kit came with custom suspension links/mounting points for putting the coil sprung setup on the s10 frame. i would like a dana 44 but when i bought the kit my only objective was just to get it on there. im gonna run 33s with this kit so im hopin i can make it survive if i dont mash it too hard.
 

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IMO, if you run the Warn Alloy shafts you should be fine with 33's. I ran 35's most of the season then 38's at the end and the only thing I broke all year was one hub fuse (paid for itself in one shot). They are beefy as hell and carry a real good waranty with them. I think that a properly built 30 will hold up to 33's no problem, and I know I am gonna get flamed for saying that:flipoff2:
 

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check out BillaVistas site for all the d30 tech you can handle. im running a xj d30 w/ cj stuff from the inner C on out. you should be fine with a detroit up front w/o hubs. i ran an ez lcoker in my old non disconnect dana 30 axle in the front of my xj for a few years. you dont notice it in 2wd except sometimes when turing you will here it ratchet. when no torque is applied the locker is not locked. in 4wd you will have to make an extra turn sometimes here and there but its much better than shelling 700 bucks for a warn hub conversion if its not really neccessary.
www.rightcoastcrawler.com/billaVista/Tech_Index.htm
 

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To me it seems like a boatload of work to do on an axle that small.
Will it be fine? Yes
Is it worth it? I don't think so.
Why not get yourself a 44 and get the brackets you need from Rubicon Express?
And, contrary to what alot of people think, a front Detroit isn't all that bad, so go for it, I did and I never looked back.
 

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To stir shit up a bit, a HP-30 front with 297x joints is, from what I have seen, as strong as a standard cut d44 front. The obvious exception to this is the housing and tubes, which are only an issue on heavier rigs.

If you want to run D44 outers, on an XJ HP-30, you need to swap the CJ inner "C"s. The offset of the CJ inners is different, so you will need to play with tube length to get stock shafts to work. IMHO, the best way to do it is to use a CAD HP30 with 297x inners, and D44 (whatever type you choose) 297x outers. While the CAD 297x inners are hard to find, I believe it is worth it, as with the addition of a seporate vacume switch, you can weld the front diff, and have a selectable locker. You can also run CJ D30 outers, or 260x D44 outers, using the 260x HP30 inners.

For my dd XJ, I am building a HP30-D44 hybred with the 6 on 5.5 Chevy outers, to match a Toyota 8" rear.
 

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Originally posted by xjpart2
[/B]
that yours xjpart2?

tell me more about that steering setup..
 

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I did mine that way:

Evaluated by pirates finest here: :flipoff2:

Clicky

Been working fine for the last few months...

I used K-5 inner "c's" and added 1.25" to each axle tube so I could use OEM length D30 inners (warns) and added some CTM's to the mix with some Warn wagoneer outers and premium hubs...

Matt



If you don't like it too bad... :D My feelers are real hurt!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well im gonna go with the idea that when no torque is applied the locker doesent lock. i have a feeling im gonna get some vibrations from the driveshaft cuz its gonna have quite an angle there and will always be turning without the disconnect hubs, but ill call up high angle driveline and see what they can do there... i guess my next debate is on which locker. ive heard good things about detroit lockers. what lockers have you guys tried and which ones do you like the best (besides ARB)?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i just want to make sure my axle is out of an XJ like u guys said. its stock with 3.55 ratio, high pinion, non-disconnect with ABS and discs up front. just wanted to make sure B4 i order r&p, etc.
 

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To stir shit up a bit, a HP-30 front with 297x joints is, from what I have seen, as strong as a standard cut d44 front. The obvious exception to this is the housing and tubes, which are only an issue on heavier rigs.
and the ring gear diameter, and the axle shaft diameter, and the # of splines...:rolleyes:
 

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indulf said:


that yours xjpart2?

tell me more about that steering setup..
yeah its mine. i bought it off a friend of mine. the steering is from www.shakerbuilt.com. ive got the TRE p#'s written down somewhere but at NAPA i just tell em 84 k5 blazer. the inners are custom length from dutchman, from the knuckle out is all CJ stuff including the outer stub shaft.

Hunter
 

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and the ring gear diameter, and the axle shaft diameter, and the # of splines...
Since the 297x joint is still the weak link in both the D44 and HP30, it really doesn't matter. The HP30 R&P in a front application is as strong as a D44 standard cut R&P. Ring gear diameter isn't everything. Shaft Dia may, in some cases be an issue, but typically the joints will fail first. You also have to consider the advantages: Lower unsprung weight, better clearance, and the coolness of using the CAD system with weld as a selectable locker. Overall, i think it is a worthwhile setup.
 
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