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Discussion Starter #1
So I have done some searching on this topic and I know it has been covered but all the posts that I have read dont give me an answer to my questions.
So I have a Dana 300 installed under my YJ adapted to a AX-15 with the AA kit. I also install a set of twin sticks. And I am having a hard time shifting into HI range. I have 4LO and 2LO but nothing in high range. After reading up on other peoples post I have tried slipping the clutch, I have tried rolling back and fourth, I have checked play in the output shafts ( there is no front driveshaft right now) and there is only a stock powerlock (limited slip) in the rear, so nothing to bind on.
I can get the sticks in the right spot for 2HI but I just cant get it to engauge. I can sometimes hear a rubbing/slight grinding sound like the something is spinning it just needs a little bit more movement in the sticks to actual engauge and I try to move the sticks but they are maxed. I have tried remounting the sticks to give a less throw on the shifters but nothing.
A buddy of mine that has a Dana 300 in his rig compared were the shifters were on his and mine at the same time a confermed that I am getting the shifters in the right place just no engaugement.
My questions are:
1) Anyone have any other tricks or ideas that might work to help me get this thing engauged into 2HI.
2) Does anyone have a breakdown skimatic ( spell?) = drawing of a Dana 300

And just for shits and giggles, this is what I am baseing my shifters off of ( I downloaded the pick from another site) nd I still have my front interlocks in.

 

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Is this the twin stick that replaces the shift rails?
or the one that uses the original shift tower?
Are your shifters adjusted properly?
are they incurring interference with the back/side (@ the webbing) of the transmission?
have YOU ever used this case?
Did it shift without hesitation before?
or was it purchased under the impression it did?

let me know, I might be able to get you figured out!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have not used this case before, I purchased it from a guy that pulled it out of a running rig to swap in an Atlas. (first mistake asumeing it was 100%)
My shifters are the ones that use the original tower, from compareing to my buddys Dana 300 the shifters (LOOK) like they are set up properly, I have readjusted them a couple times with no luck on engaugement. I am not running into the webbib=ng on the transmission. And here is a pic of the twin sticks I bought.
 

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I would try to eliminate the shifters from the problem, you may try undoing the shifter from the shift rails and shift it by hand @ the case via the shift rails. this allows you to make shure it isnt in the twin stick assembly itself.

If it allows you to go into 2wd then you can assume something in the shifter is causing interference.

otherwise I would be opening the site cover and inspecting the internals of the 300 IE: shift rail damage and look for a bent shift fork or possibly worn slider.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so I pulled the shifters and shifted by hand and I was able to get the left side (farthest from the driver) to pull out a little farther then it did when I had the sticks on. But still no luck. I see a bolt in the middle of the shifter that looks like it holds the shifter plate on, I was thinking about pulling that off and seeing if I can find a damaged part. Any info on that. I would hate to pull it and find out that i screwed something else up. I would pull the inspection cover but the D300 is in my rig and full with gear oil, and with me living in an apartment complex, I can only get away with so much stuff before I get busted again.
 

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The shift patterns you're showing are wrong. Each shift rail relates to an output, so one rail would shift the front output shaft from Lo to Neutral to Hi and the other will shift the rear output shaft the same way. Inside there are two "pills" that try to make the shifter arrangement "idiot proof" by not allowing you to have one output in Lo and the other in Hi. You need to play with this a bit to see if you want the OEM pill arrangement or not, they can also preclude you from having a selection like "front drive only" where you'd have the rear selection in Neutral. These pills are removable, but you need to take the case apart and pull the shift rails out to do it.

I made a cable shift arrangement (used 2 push/pull control cables) for a flipped 300 and removed the pills and fabricated the Hi/Lo lock-out in the shifter itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So after looking around some more online I found this place that sells decals for jeeps and it had this on there. ( I wonder how the person that made the first chart came up with that pattern and it worked for them?)

 

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So after looking around some more online I found this place that sells decals for jeeps and it had this on there. ( I wonder how the person that made the first chart came up with that pattern and it worked for them?)

They may still be trying to figure it out - don't forget to show your new diagram to your buddy as well.
 

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The first chart and the second chart you found say the same thing! Only in the first chart they don't list the front output with neutral but 2WD, but that is what is happening when you place the front output shifter in the middle position(it is in neutral). I know that does not help with problem, but I just wanted to make that clear. Good luck with finding the problem and fixing it!:D
 

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To simplify it, the left stick is the rear output and the right is front output. Low is forward, in the middle is neutral and all the way back is high. I didn't read all of this but I'm sure that has already been stated.
 

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you may have to drain your case and pull the cover. Look at the transfer case diagram on the yellow sticker. Place both sticks at the neutral position, when you pull the left (rear output) lever all the way back , that should engage the rear shaft. If it doesn't and you hear grinding I'm guessing the linkage isn't adjusted properly or the shift fork bolt is sheared and the slidding gear is not going all the way in. With the cover off, using a mirror, see if the fork is moving on the shift rail. Rock your rear shaft back and forth, and use a bar to engage the slidding gear. (Use a bar to keep from pinching your fingers). If the fork isn't moving on the shift rail, disconnect the linkage and try again.

just remember if this was easy, everybody would be doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have the day off on thurs so hopefully I will be able to pull the case out and follow up, as for the detents, I do feel them and i have had the left stick all the wayback as far as I can get it ( i will double check once I pull the inspection plate and check for sure) and the right stick in nuetral and still nothin. But like I said I will try and pull the case, that is the best way to diagnose the problem, thanks to everyone that has put in the time and information, I will try to get some pics once I get the case open.
 
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