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Discussion Starter #1
Do you really get a fair amount of added strength on a Dana 300 when you add a thick aluminum diff cover like the one in the link below? I've thought about a case girdle in the past that ties the output bolt holes to a fabricated steel bottom cover. But if one of these thick covers adds a lot of strength, I'm happy to spend the $100.

FWIW, I haven't had any issues with my Dana 300, but I try to be pretty easy on the throttle and rely more on technical crawling. But, at the end of the day, it does have a V8 and sticky 40s, and I'd rather take measures to prevent a shit show on the trail some day down the line.

https://www.tdsideas.com/store/p5/Dana_300_Transfer_Case_Cover_Plate.html
 

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I might be talking out of my ass here, but it seems like a conical insert vs just a cap screw would make it a lot stronger. I know that its 3/4" thick, but if it does want to twist up the only thing stopping it is the clamping force of the bolts.

No matter what I'm sure its better than the stamped cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I should also clarify, I don't need the cover for armor/strength bouncing off of rocks. Floor is cut and tcase clocked up high and flat with a full skid plate. Just don't want to rip my case in pieces from to much torque, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I picked up a billet cover for the same reason and have thought about picking up one of these as well.

https://www.hiredgunoffroad.com/product/transfer_case_rear_crossmember_support_plate




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That's pretty cool. Something like that tied/welded to a thick steel bottom cover would be pretty beefy I think, but not sure if they make those for the Dana 300 and/or if that much more strength is actually necessary. I guess it doesn't hurt to go overboard on reinforcement.
 

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I have a dxf file for this and haven’t gotten one cut. But I’d like to do everything I can to polish my 300 as I’ve got big outputs and soon to be 4to1. I have seen pictures on here of the cases splitting in half with low gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #12
Buyer beware, this is what the D300 plate looks like on your doorstep.



Vs the pic on the website.

Good to know. In my case, I actually prefer it without any brackets, because I would be using it to strengthen the case itself and not use it as a cross member mount. Honestly, I would think most people would prefer that as well since who knows how each person wants to clock their own case. Weld on mounts seems to make that aspect easier to setup.
 

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Good to know. In my case, I actually prefer it without any brackets, because I would be using it to strengthen the case itself and not use it as a cross member mount. Honestly, I would think most people would prefer that as well since who knows how each person wants to clock their own case. Weld on mounts seems to make that aspect easier to setup.
My issue is the overhang around the case, it no longer packages/fits well. I dont want to modify a part I bought just to make it work.
 

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I have a dxf file for this and haven’t gotten one cut. But I’d like to do everything I can to polish my 300 as I’ve got big outputs and soon to be 4to1. I have seen pictures on here of the cases splitting in half with low gears.
I may know someone how could probably burn that out for you.
 

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2 minutes with cut off wheel will fix that up :flipoff2:
If you're going to do that, you might as well just make it yourself. Then at least you won't have that fucking hideous logo in it either. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lots of threads on this. Someone needs to make one similar to the d18 girdle





Bingo.
Shit yeah! I knew I saw a picture of something like that a long time ago. Why doesn't anyone sell that as a WIY kit. Would be super simple. Two flat plates CNCd and sent as separate pieces. Assemble at home and weld it up. Use stock diff cover or whatever.
 
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