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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been hearing that a wagoneer dana 44 is a good front axle for a toyota. Is it just a matter of welding on new spring perches and rigging up the steering? Are there high-pinion units? I think I am going to go this route and I am looking for the best axle. I would like to avoid modifying the axle too much so it needs to match a 86 up rear axle in width or be close.
 

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First off, do a search on this topic if you haven't already. This is the best site I've seen for swapping a Dana 44 into a Toyota: http://home.off-road.com/~bibelheimer/sas.html
Here is a bunch of information I have saved from various posts concerning swapping in a Waggy D44. By the way, are you lookig for a right or a left hand drop axle?


I know many of the 74's up had disc brakes and 6 lugs.

72-3-4? until 79 are RH drop, but are 61in wide, you shorten 3in to get 58... 76 and older have flat top knuckles on them, and beware some are drum brakes! but yes everything is the same on a disc brake through the years... and as far as brake lines go, since the dana calipers use banjo fittings I got brass banjo blocks and had 6in metal lines made with SAE on one end and metric on the other to fit my extended rubber lines with metric fittings, works great... got better pedal pressure than my toy brakes and better stopping power too if you have any other Q's or want some pics let me know, I need to do a write up on it...
Any Waggie from '74 through '79 will be a passenger drop, 61". Cherokees' w/o the steel fender flares will also be 61". With flares and J-trucks are 64". These measurements are wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface.
the wagoneer d44's are 61" wide and the wide track cherokee and j-trucks are 64" wide. If you are running a toy rear then get the wagoneer front. wags have 4doors and cherokees have 2. wags have narrower axles.
flat tops are as such, flat on top, so it's easy to mount a steering arm to it, the RH arm even has the extra metal in it for the 3 stud holes to be drilled, now the 77 and up style are rounded, and basically just don't have the filler metal in them, so they aren't easily/or possibly usable for crossover...
Originally posted by morpheus:
Why bother shortening it at all? if you didn't know it was 3" wider you'd likely never be able to tell the difference.

spring perches... toy's are 29in center to center, if you used a 61in wide waggy housing your right spring would be 1/2 way up the pumpkin, so you'd need a 4in block on the left side to use even length springs or outboard your springs, cutting the tube 3in and adding spring over is fairly easy, and 1 cut-respline isn't to harsh... and the biggest reason is it still fit's in the fenderwells decently for street driving!
waggies are SPRING UNDER, so there's no perches to start with, and you'd have to make them 33in center's if you left it full width because the short side is so short, all 3in of shortening, and perch movement come off the long side, and outboarding from 29-33, yikes!
the other problem I see leaving it full width and doing 33in center's is the fact that my pumpkin as I see it out my window right now has 1-2in of clearance to the frame at full stuff, so outboard it2in and guess what, CONTACT

Originally posted by liveaxle:
So it sounds like I need to find a D44 from a '74-'76 Wagoneer to be able to do crossover?

well at least a right side knuckle from a flat pre 76 either chev or jeep with disc brakes...
another thing I'd recommend is if your going to shorten the housing yourself (not hard) since you have one knuckle cut off, cut the other one loose and rotate it back some also so you can improve your pinion angle, being these are a spring under in a very low rig, they aren't the best for the angles, now if you run dual cases, it's not as big of a deal, my runner doesn't... my pinion is 25-7 degrees up and has a better driveline angle than most HP's out there
i must say i am SUPER happy with this axle, and @58in my tires on 15x10's barely stick out, of course then i did add spacers when i went to the Hammers for stability.
eric’s page:
Wheel studs were replaced with 12mm studs. The original 7/16" wheel studs are fairly week and prone to breakage. Jason did some research and found that Dorman 610-264 wheel studs are basically a direct replacement. They are slightly longer and have larger 12mm threads (same as Toyota uses), so I re-used use my old lug nuts and was able to keep the same lug nuts front and rear.

Originally posted by deleon87:
DSI do you have any pics of the perches on your axle? how did you do the shock mounts an the axle?
thanks

shock mounts were 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 box cut open at the top and drilled corner's rounded etc.., look very clean and work great
i don't have any good up close pics of the front end, and my left side perch is still teh stock waggie spring under perch, just cut and flipped it.. and the cast part was just ground down flat and welded a plate onto it, not hard, but took a little time..
waggies are 32in perches., that's why when u narrow them you only move one perch and shorten one side 3in, the waggie axle makes a perfect stock IFS width replacement, and allows you to stay inside the fenderwells like an IFS would, that's why i went this route, it keeps the stock track width, yes wider is better for some thing, but on a daily driven rig in some places wider is not good

Originally posted by deleon87:
DSI so what you are saying to cut the drivers side (long side) 3" and move the spring perch and leave the pass side alone but just rotate the spring perch do that they are on top like a toy would be. am i getting this right? then have the axle shaft cut down 3" and resplined?

BINGO!!! you don't move anything on the pass side... just put the perch on top of the housing (said grinder work) and the pass side just weld a new perch @29in.. cut and re-spline 1axle 3in, and boom 58in wide D44
right side knuckle from a flat top pre 76 chevy will have the three holes drilled and tapped from the factory. then just find a Jeep or Chevy left side knuckle (that is flat with no holes).
 

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I am just tickled with the clearance on my hi-pinion 44, worth the extra work!

The driveline is above the leaf springs <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Will a 63" front axle from a wagoneer go in a toyota without being shortened? Or will one spring be over the pumpkin? If it has to be shortened, what is involved? Can you just pull the axle tube out of the housing and cut it and then cut and respline the axles?
 
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