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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting ready to make my tie rod and drag link. The question I have is, Would running the drag link to the tie rod instead of the steering arm be a really bad idea? I was planning on running it to the steering arm. I'm using 3/4" heims and even with the high misalinment spacers I think I will run out of travel at the ball's(heim joint balls). That's why I was think of running the drag link to the tie rod and the heim at the tie rod will be vertical. This will allow unlimited movement of the drag link.

I've seen guy's running this set up and it looks pretty good. I just want a good steering set up that won't limit wheel travel. I'm using 1 1/4" solid round for both rods. I'm thinking of machineing a flat spot on both sides where the drag link will attach. Then drill a 3/4" hole and run the bolt thru the hole. I attached a picture of kinda how it will look. The top set up was how I was planning but I think I will go with the bottom set up. What to you guy's think?


Try to keep focus on the topic,I know there's alot of talk about ball's,rod's,solid round and holes:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :goofball:
 

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The issue is this:
You want your pitman arm length and steering arm center to where the DL will attach the same length. So, if you had say, a 6" pitman and 6" steering arm, then your TR must now locate itself around 4" or so. This affects the leverage that the TR has on the steering. Makes sense? If you used a longer pitman (Like a Scout II one- they used this style of steering from the factory) and moved the TR to a more acceptable distance, then it could work fine.

Edit: I read your post wrong:emb3:

Yeah, if you tie the DL into the TR then it should work great.
 

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i used to run my draglinnk to the tie rod pretty close to the end of the tie rod. i really lost alot of turning radius. when i switched , and ran it to the high steer arm, every thing was good again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2stroke said:
i used to run my draglinnk to the tie rod pretty close to the end of the tie rod. i really lost alot of turning radius. when i switched , and ran it to the high steer arm, every thing was good again.
I don't quite understand why this would take away from turning radius running the drag link to the tie rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Scout Dude said:
The issue is this:
You want your pitman arm length and steering arm center to where the DL will attach the same length. So, if you had say, a 6" pitman and 6" steering arm, then your TR must now locate itself around 4" or so. This affects the leverage that the TR has on the steering. Makes sense? If you used a longer pitman (Like a Scout II one- they used this style of steering from the factory) and moved the TR to a more acceptable distance, then it could work fine.

Edit: I read your post wrong:emb3:

Yeah, if you tie the DL into the TR then it should work great.
Scout Dude, O.K. Thanks for the tip's. You say with a 6" pitman and 6" sterring arm the tie rod should be at 4" or so. Can you tell me 4" or so from what point? Can you further explain this to me. Trying to get a good knoledge of this. Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter #7
[very agravated rant mode on]
I've been using the seach feature on this site for 3 hours now to find some pictures of different hysteer set ups. I'm very agravated right now cause I ain't seen the first picture. I know how it all goes together I'm just trying to see some pictures to clarify what Scout Dude told me. Does anyone have any pictures they can share with me.[very agravated rant mode off]

Thank You very much:)
 

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I'm running 1 ton chevy ends, and I am running my drag link into the stabilizer hole on the tie rod. I used a reamer to taper the hole, it works great.
 

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Sorry, been busy watching shitty movies with the wife...

What I meant was this:

Center of pitman/Dl hole to pitman/PS box hole = 6" right?
Steering arm center hole where DL mounts to center of ball joint should equal 6" Make sense so far.

So, this would only leave about 4" left of that steering arm to mount a tierod to. So, that would have an affect on your leverage.

If you had an 8" pitman arm, then you could make the passenger side arm longer and mount the DL at 8" ad the TR at 6"..make sense?
 

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I used the drag link-to-tie rod method on my Scout II project and it works great! Here's the best pic I have ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Scout Dude said:
Sorry, been busy watching shitty movies with the wife...

What I meant was this:

Center of pitman/Dl hole to pitman/PS box hole = 6" right?
Steering arm center hole where DL mounts to center of ball joint should equal 6" Make sense so far.

So, this would only leave about 4" left of that steering arm to mount a tierod to. So, that would have an affect on your leverage.

If you had an 8" pitman arm, then you could make the passenger side arm longer and mount the DL at 8" ad the TR at 6"..make sense?
O.K. Thanks for explaining that. Makes alot more sence to me now. Can the tie rod be mounted closer to the axle than the drag link? Well thats kinda a silly ? cause thats the way most of the pictures I've seen are set up. I've got Rockstomper arms and drilled a hole at the end for the drag link and one about 2" past the first for the tie rod. I was planning on this but I'm affaraid the heims won't misaline enough for suspension droop. The only way I see to fix that is to put the drag link on the tie rod. But I'm affraid of the added leverage like you've explained. Do you have any other ideas.
 

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The only thing I would suggest is maybe buy using a tie rod our draglink end on the end of the draglink link insted of the hiem you may gain some more flex so it doesnt bind. That is if you attach the draglink to the steering arm. :)
 
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