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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Rig was running great, D30 , 8.8, 4.10s, locked with a Roc Trac 4:1 to name a few details but had to fix what wasn't broken. Found a D44 advertised as a 79 from an F250 but according to the BOM it was a 77.5. But basically same axle, 1/2" tube, stout. Original build thread over HERE but thought I'd transfer some info to pirate
 

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P.B.A.
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Basically the same. I believe spring widths are close to yj. Maybe someone will confirm.

Beware that f250 and f150 knuckles are different. Unlike chevy which are the same. So you’ll need knuckles out if you run ford stuff. Chevy knuckles small bearing spindles 78-95 ford hubs and rotors and Chevy backing plates and calipers if you go Chevy stuff and want 5x5.5”.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Basically the same. I believe spring widths are close to yj. Maybe someone will confirm.

Beware that f250 and f150 knuckles are different. Unlike chevy which are the same. So you’ll need knuckles out if you run ford stuff. Chevy knuckles small bearing spindles 78-95 ford hubs and rotors and Chevy backing plates and calipers if you go Chevy stuff and want 5x5.5”.
Yeah I'm half way there
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Plan: SOA waggys in the front with the F250 D44, 4.88s Grizzlys front and rear, 37's, keep the back SUA, RE 4.5" springs in the back with 6" shackles may even it out. With the Super 88 in the back I'm 61.62” add 1.25" spacers and I'm at 64.12". With the Chevy outers the F250 is suppose to be 65", ~ .5 inch on each side isn't terrible. My math may be off though, I'll check
https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/products/dana-44mk-001
These guys are great. Got the high steer arm and knuckle machined and sent back to me.( pirate code pirate10off). Just gotta mail them the knuckle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
pulled the trigger. (a small bonus from work helped too) Said I wasn't but I've been reading how it's hit and miss with the chromos made in India and Korea, how sometimes people are breaking ears before u-joints because the D44 shaft ain't much different than the 30. I plan on doing the hammers more often and didn't want to take a chance. Plus American made. Skinny Pedal Racing got a great deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I hammered in the spindle studs, installed the knuckles. Torque the lower ball joint to 80 ft-lb, the upper collar to snug, and the upper ball joint nut to 100 ft-lb, in that order.
The RCV instructions state you need to grind/cut down the bottom ball joint bolt flush with the nut. Getting a 4.5" wheel in there was hard (Chevy knuckle, tighter spot?) plus I was bouncing off the knuckle and C. Luckily I keep old cutting wheels for tight spots like this. Not a good scenario using a worn wheel without a guard but oh well. Also need to remove the steering stop to get the axle boot in and access to the ball joint nut. in.
Video for reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=126&v=rp4RKNluDTk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So putting in the RCVs have kicked my *** a little. I had to grind down the knuckle and C a bit to get the knuckle to open up enough to get the joint in there. The guys at RCV told me thats the route some people take, the second is removing the knuckle and put it together while sliding the knuckle back into place which is the method I'm gonna try on the pass side. I didn't like the idea of taking meat off the axle even though it's not much and I can probably weld it in anyway. these are two videos on the subject for reference.
Knuckle removal
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got the pass side in using the knuckle removal method. A little tricky but much easier and this is the method I would recommend and use again. Keep in mind this is with the Chevy knuckles which make it more difficult. Also I popped on the oil slinger first which was a mistake, had to remove it to maneuver the joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Got the spindle and caliper bracket on, part# on bracket. First time using one of these $7 bearing packers and it's awesome. Very liberal with the grease in the hub. (Note: I used the oil slinger and dust seals just like on the stock stub)
Backing plate and spindle to steering knuckle retaining bolts 30-40 ft lbs
Spindle nut to wheel hub -inner 50 then back off 90 degrees but I like it a little loose, outer 80-100. Check fit, spin rotor after.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So originally I got the Yukon hub kit (YHC70007 with spacers) at a killer price (Amazon return) but when I decided to go with the RCVs I needed the 30 spline hub gear that I got from Yukon, so I ended up paying full price eventually, oh well. This is an excellent video on installation of the kit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNkHzG65j6w#action=share
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Finished the hubs, I tested them and they lock and unlock great. and threw on the 1/2 ton brakes, still gotta work on the front brake lines and bleed the system. Also need to put together the 1 ton steering and mount the steering box bracket. But I decided to threw on the 37s to see how the springs are sitting. So I got used stock waggys up front, SOA with stock height shackles (caster about 6ish), new SUA RE1455 4.5" rears with 6 " shackles. Looks a tad taller in the front but not by much. My concern is the shackle angles, The front I can live with but the rears are a little steep. the back should settle a little but I know RE's are pretty good keeping their shape. Considering welding a shackle hanger on the rear frame to adjust hanger angle and use a shorter shackle. Suggestions are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So come to find out putting Chevy knuckles on a ford D44 axle you almost always have a camber issue and sure enough.......wa la. Kinda hard to believe with all the homework I did I never found this. So the solution I decided to use was camber sleeves for the top ball joint. Another option is spindle shims but then I gotta take the hub totally apart. Luckily found 2 for the price of one on eBay cause they're not cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I just got the camber sleeves in the mail, will report back after I have them installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Basically the same. I believe spring widths are close to yj. Maybe someone will confirm.

Beware that f250 and f150 knuckles are different. Unlike chevy which are the same. So you’ll need knuckles out if you run ford stuff. Chevy knuckles small bearing spindles 78-95 ford hubs and rotors and Chevy backing plates and calipers if you go Chevy stuff and want 5x5.5”.
Yeah and the spring perches sit a little wider so I notched the perch holes a hair so the springs wouldn't bow out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got the bushings installed today, brought my numbers up to specs. Then had an issue on the pass side with the high steer arm binding on the C, had to grind it down a bit and then the knuckle moved freely afterward.
 

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