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I recently found a Dana 60 front, driver's side drop on a 1988 F350, leaf spring truck, with what should be a 3.55 gear, high pinion and king pin type. My question, is this a good axle for a one tone swap into a Jeep TJ, or is there is better, more swap friendly junk yard one ton axle choice. What is this axle worth?
Thanks
 

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It’s an affordable option that works. A 78-79 is easier but hard to find and expensive. Atec makes a good swap truss. You’ll probably want to cut off your spring/shock towers and use theres or make wider ones. With the diff offset it will make the springs sit wider than stock TJ width. Cost depends on where you are. I would think $500-$1000.

For what it’s worth I’m using this same axle in my TJ swap as well.


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It's a good axle. Im using a 91 under my Silverado. Are you linking, or thinking of leafs? What tire size? If you go leafs, you might be limited to 35" tires or else rubbing will occur. Might be able to get away with 37. Using artec brackets will allow you to use the short driver side tube with no leaf perch cutting for the lower link mounts.
I paid 375 for mine from a salvage yard.
05+super duty axles are stronger, likely cheaper, and an all around better axle. More work involved unless you use there stock radius arm mounts. If you're still wanting to link it, you'll have to cut the driver side radius arm mounts and coil mount off as there is no tube to weld to with that particular axle. I assure you it is worth it though. Fwiw i paid 275 for one of those...
 

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It's a good axle. Im using a 91 under my Silverado. Are you linking, or thinking of leafs? What tire size? If you go leafs, you might be limited to 35" tires or else rubbing will occur. Might be able to get away with 37. Using artec brackets will allow you to use the short driver side tube with no leaf perch cutting for the lower link mounts.
I paid 375 for mine from a salvage yard.
05+super duty axles are stronger, likely cheaper, and an all around better axle. More work involved unless you use there stock radius arm mounts. If you're still wanting to link it, you'll have to cut the driver side radius arm mounts and coil mount off as there is no tube to weld to with that particular axle. I assure you it is worth it though. Fwiw i paid 275 for one of those...
On my yj framed build I’m running a 60” wide 44 with 2” back spaced wheels and 37’s almost rub. So essentially 64-65” wide axle with normal wheel back spacing. All of the above I agree. I paid $700 for my 88-91 kingpin back when prices were still high before superduty stuff was more readily available.
 

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Its a great axle to use! One, its king pin, which give you plenty of steering options. Several companies make a truss kit to swap them into TJs. I'm using a WFO Concepts truss.

I'm using some Method wheels with 4.75" of backspacing to keep it somewhat legal. Also, the steering scrub is better that way.
 

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Unless you get it really cheap I would spring for the 05+ SD60. Better in everyway except ball joints. Which arent horrible. They are cheap to find, more steering angle, 35 spline outers, and $175 1550 shafts from Ford. Use the $ you save towards linking it.
 

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Unless you get it really cheap I would spring for the 05+ SD60. Better in everyway except ball joints. Which arent horrible. They are cheap to find, more steering angle, 35 spline outers, and $175 1550 shafts from Ford. Use the $ you save towards linking it.
Balljoints are better than kingpins other than high steer options imo....don't forget about sealed unit bearings too :smokin: imo that's the only way to go. The old school dana 60 fronts are harder then fuck to get there wheel bearings sealed. Im always regreasing the bearings because water intrusion. I used the poly bushing in place of the spindle bearing and seal, but that gave out eventually too. Now im back to the spindle bearing seal setup with better seals, but it still leaks:laughing:
Eventually i want to build a 14 bolt rear with sd unit bearings too.
 

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Balljoints are better than kingpins other than high steer options imo....don't forget about sealed unit bearings too :smokin: imo that's the only way to go. The old school dana 60 fronts are harder then fuck to get there wheel bearings sealed. Im always regreasing the bearings because water intrusion. I used the poly bushing in place of the spindle bearing and seal, but that gave out eventually too. Now im back to the spindle bearing seal setup with better seals, but it still leaks:laughing:
Eventually i want to build a 14 bolt rear with sd unit bearings too.
Just referring to how the knuckle mounts I would argue that KP is better than BJ. Thats why they make the BJ eliminator kits. Now every other aspect of the SD60 is superior knuckles, stubs, C's, unit bearing etc. The ideal outer set up would be the reid Super C's that use KP and the 05+UB's and can fit big bells, but them things are $$$$. At that point you would be better of with a 14Bolt front. Got to love spending money I dont have in my head. lol.
 

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This is all that is needed to explain why the 05+ is superior to kingpin. This coming from someone who runs a kingpin axle. :flipoff2:





Exactly why I said everything else but the King pin attachment itself. Also someone who runs a KP axle. If I did it over again I 100% would go SD60 :flipoff2:
 

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Just referring to how the knuckle mounts I would argue that KP is better than BJ. Thats why they make the BJ eliminator kits. Now every other aspect of the SD60 is superior knuckles, stubs, C's, unit bearing etc. The ideal outer set up would be the reid Super C's that use KP and the 05+UB's and can fit big bells, but them things are $$$$. At that point you would be better of with a 14Bolt front. Got to love spending money I dont have in my head. lol.
Balljoint over kingpin because seals is why i prefer them at this point. The kingpin seals are at least better than the shitty wheel bearing seals:laughing: strength wise, if they were the same size, kingpin would be the better option, but kingpin on stock knuckled axles are not all they are cracked up to be. That's stock kingpin axle vs stock sd axle. Now if you're going aftermarket(spending someone else's money:laughing:) going reid super c is the way to go. That is not the topic though:homer:

This is all that is needed to explain why the 05+ is superior to kingpin. This coming from someone who runs a kingpin axle. :flipoff2:



Huge difference, and the reason 05+ sd axles are getting evermore popular. Axle tube size and the ability to run 1550 joints with 0 mods and on the cheap are some other big reasons to go that route...

Exactly why I said everything else but the King pin attachment itself. Also someone who runs a KP axle. If I did it over again I 100% would go SD60 :flipoff2:
I also run a kingpin and might change it out for the sd sitting on the floor in my shop. Plus getting them for sub 300 within an hour of my place might be a huge factor in why my next project will have 1 as well. Wonder what i can get for my kingpin with 4.88, spartan locker, and Yukon hardcores? :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's a good axle. Im using a 91 under my Silverado. Are you linking, or thinking of leafs? What tire size? If you go leafs, you might be limited to 35" tires or else rubbing will occur. Might be able to get away with 37. Using artec brackets will allow you to use the short driver side tube with no leaf perch cutting for the lower link mounts.
I paid 375 for mine from a salvage yard.
05+super duty axles are stronger, likely cheaper, and an all around better axle. More work involved unless you use there stock radius arm mounts. If you're still wanting to link it, you'll have to cut the driver side radius arm mounts and coil mount off as there is no tube to weld to with that particular axle. I assure you it is worth it though. Fwiw i paid 275 for one of those...
I would be putting the axle under a Jeep TJ, prolly coil overs. The truck in question has leaf strings, and none of the control arm stuff to have to cut off the axle. I can pick it up from the salvage yard for $129 OTD, It also has a 10.25 rear.
 

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I would be putting the axle under a Jeep TJ, prolly coil overs. The truck in question has leaf strings, and none of the control arm stuff to have to cut off the axle. I can pick it up from the salvage yard for $129 OTD, It also has a 10.25 rear.
Buy it now... how was this even a question:laughing: for that price you'll be very happy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Its a great axle to use! One, its king pin, which give you plenty of steering options. Several companies make a truss kit to swap them into TJs. I'm using a WFO Concepts truss.

I'm using some Method wheels with 4.75" of backspacing to keep it somewhat legal. Also, the steering scrub is better that way.
Sweet looking setup! I think I'll be picking up this axle as soon as I can get back to the junk yard!
 
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