Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hard part is done . . .

I've just installed the Dana 60 kingpin axle (from a 79 Ford) under the front of my GMC G35 van. It took a lot of fabrication, trimming, reinforcing/welding, and elbow grease but it looks impressive there now.

Note my version of high-steer using the 3-piece stock drag-link/tie-rods and a pair of Ballistic Fab springless steering arms.

Also note the missing front driveshaft, missing dust boots, and the transmission crossmember blocking the path (all easy left-over jobs).

Here's how it looked before I took the front end apart for the D60 Install:
 

Attachments

·
Moderator
Joined
·
33,755 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
How does it drive with your custome steering setup?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,751 Posts
Are you fawking serious? Dump that steering you will have nothing but issues with it.....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,751 Posts
why, its not he is trying to get crazy flexy or jump the fuckin thing, it will be fine.


The toe changes even on small stuff will make for a spooky feedback in the steering wheel... Besides, if there is enough room to do it wrong there is enough room to do it right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Corey, thanks for posting inline one of the photos. Is it too much to ask to post the others as well?

DWT, thanks for the input. I welcome differing views. That's why I posted the photos - for constructive critique. My plan B is to dump the setup like you said and fab the drag links and use the long steering arm with extra hole (I hope Jeff at Ballistic will let me exchange the short one for a fee).

Track Killer, I also appreciate your rebuttal/defense. It drove just fine with that steering setup when it had the 2WD Fabtech 4.5 spindle lift where the angles of the two tierod ends were about the same, if not more. Had no problems with bumpsteer. After all, both tierod ends are pointing horizontal almost. Further, 3 inches are all the bumpstops will allow the axle to go up.

Those said, I have not driven the beast with the D60 axle under there, pending customization of the exhaust pipe routing now that the springs and shackles are in the way.

Also, just in case you've noticed in the photos, the springs are calling for 2-degree shims to correct the caster, along with shortening the 5-in shackles.

Keep them criticisms coming.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,751 Posts
Track Killer, I also appreciate your rebuttal/defense. It drove just fine with that steering setup when it had the 2WD Fabtech 4.5 spindle lift where the angles of the two tierod ends were about the same, if not more. Had no problems with bumpsteer. After all, both tierod ends are pointing horizontal almost. Further, 3 inches are all the bumpstops will allow the axle to go up.

Those said, I have not driven the beast with the D60 axle under there, pending customization of the exhaust pipe routing now that the springs and shackles are in the way.


You didn't have any bump steer issues with the independent setup because the A arms moved in the same arc as the short drag links. With those short links when you compress the suspension the tires will point away from each other slightly, on droop they will point towards each other severely.

Not a big deal on the arms, you can always run a standard tie rod with the drag link attached to it directly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,498 Posts
Track Killer, I also appreciate your rebuttal/defense. It drove just fine with that steering setup when it had the 2WD Fabtech 4.5 spindle lift where the angles of the two tierod ends were about the same, if not more. Had no problems with bumpsteer. After all, both tierod ends are pointing horizontal almost. Further, 3 inches are all the bumpstops will allow the axle to go up.

Those said, I have not driven the beast with the D60 axle under there, pending customization of the exhaust pipe routing now that the springs and shackles are in the way.

Keep them criticisms coming.

it drove good with that setup because the A arms of the IFS were at similar angles to the tie rods, now i have a feeling you are going to get hube toe movements with any road bumps...

your axle is moving back as it hits a speedbump and your tie rods are moving up....

this looks similar to the guys who try to TTB with a solid tie rod...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Skerb, very good info you provided. I will visualize it (and theorize) when I get back home, to understand it more.

I wish someone posts the other photos inline so that we all have a clear picture what we all are discussing.

http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailsh...748_102455748/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Yippeee! I now have a Red Star.

I'll post more photos tonight.

Thanks Corey. I finally searched for that red star and figured out how to get one and be able to post inline images.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
More photos

Here's the front driveline angle, sans driveshaft, and the tranny crossmember blocking the path. (I've driven this rig with the transfer case and shifter for more than 3 years, in 2WD).

Some angle there, huh? The pinion is about 6 inches lower than the transfer case yoke which is also pointing up slightly.

And in the next photo, note the trimmed (and later reinforced) original crossmember.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
BTW, those adapters had some machining done to them: the Ford's 4.88-in center lip was machined-off so that the 4.65-in hub-located GM wheels would mount. Furthermore, the adapter studs had 7/8-in knurls with 5/8 threads, God only knows where this adapter came from, so I had to have them machined to M14-1.5 threads and had the knurl shoulders machined to 0.622 to act as the "lug bolt locators" for my GM wheels, which all have 5/8-in lug holes diameter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
More photos

more photos: on its wheels
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Progress

RVDana60-1.JPG

RVDana60-3.JPG

I drove my van/RV for the first time with the Dana 60 installed. Drove it just up to 55mph without shocks and even without a track bar!!! It drove fine and just as well as when it was 2WD. I was pleasantly surprised, especially I'm using my own version of high-steer setup (the stock 3-piece drag link that I inverted + 2 Ballistic Fab springless steer arms + 2-degree leaf spring shims). No death wobble, no noticeable bumpsteer.

FrontLeft.JPG

Now, my next job is to install shocks (longer than the shocks from the 2WD setup) and bumpstops. Here's my pick for shocks - they fit the 16.25-inch eye-to-eye mounts at ride height:

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(ctz3y2n3xr0oedfsupqu32fh))/Detail.aspx?R=NS_66667_0215425703

After shocks and bumpstops, I plan to tackle the trackbar issue - a fab job - to connect the right side of the axle to the driverside frame. Do I really need a trackbar???. My leaf spring pack consists of 4 leaves (photo above shows 3 only) - they came from a 4-inch lift 5-leaf Superlift spring pack without one leaf which I removed. This rig seem to corner fine even without shocks.
 

·
Addicted to Gear Oil
Joined
·
9,982 Posts
You should get some SWAT steekers made for it :grinpimp:
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top