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Discussion Starter #1
I have broke my rear AMC 20 in my CJ7, so I have saved up some money to replace the rear axle.

I have CJ7 with a SBC, 33's(possibly to 35's), and use this for weekend wheeler in the desert or Mountains. I have a heavy foot sometimes...

It seems to me that the 9 and 60 are around the same price but the 60 is beefier. Is the 60 overkill?

I am looking at either 31 or 35 Spline, ARB with 4:56's.

Help me make my mind up...
 

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I have broke my rear AMC 20 in my CJ7, so I have saved up some money to replace the rear axle.

I have CJ7 with a SBC, 33's(possibly to 35's), and use this for weekend wheeler in the desert or Mountains. I have a heavy foot sometimes...

It seems to me that the 9 and 60 are around the same price but the 60 is beefier. Is the 60 overkill?

I am looking at either 31 or 35 Spline, ARB with 4:56's.

Help me make my mind up...


For lack of accuracy, I'd say both have equal pro's and con's.


I'd say either is fine.


If I had to choose, with your rig, I'd go 9 inch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, the 9" is definitely proven around the world...

Also, Is the Currie HP 8.8 Strong enough for a V8?
 

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I dont like the idea of running any HP application in the rear. I know of a guy running HP60's and breaking the ring gears like nothing.

The rear 9 is good for up to about 36's on 35 spline for a stock modified rig. A FF60 running 35 spline is good for about 40's on a stock mod rig. The buggy relm is a different animal.

They both cost about the same to build up to those specs. But there is SOOOO Much more to take into account. What is your t-case gearing? Auto or manual? lowest gear in tranny? Any range boxes? What is your torque multiplyer at the axle under most extreme conditons?

Given you want 35's, you should be fine with a 9" on 1.5" 35 spline.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have heard this also...I will just be running a 700r4, and a stock Dana 300 until I break it(should be good for a while I hope)

Thanks for the input.

The reason I was thinking HP in the rear is just for clearance since I wont have to big of tires.
 

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The hp doesn't really give ya any more clearance under the housing but it does raise the driveshaft up out of the rocks and give ya a better driveline angle (of course it is weaker in the rear). The only problem with a 9" is the low driveshaft input but it is strong, light and findable in 5x5.5 for your cj. If ya like ff and 8 lug go with the 60. A 14 bolt is kinda big for 33s or even 35s.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah i was thinking the HP would take care of a OK driveline angle...

I can get a DANA 60 with the 5 x 5.5 lug, and locker foe the same price too..

But not a HP Dana 60 of course.
 

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As mentioned above it sounds like the 9" would be a better bet. They are much lighter than a 60 and should be strong enough. I did not read anywhere if price was an issue, just that you could get either for around the same price. If price is really not an issue, or you have a spare you can throw in while saving some coin then you could always go with something like a spider 9. That would give you the strength, keep the weight down and you can get it with the TrueHi 9 third member to help with the driveshaft angle and to keep the shaft out of the rocks. Good luck with the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Plas..

I was actually just reading about the Spider 9

I just got a quote from Wildwestfab..

I have already saved enough to spend on a new axle, so I guess I could splurge a bit more...

I just do not want to have to pay for another axle again...Until the front breaks!
 

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Just a question: Why did Ford offer the 9" on the 1/2 ton truck, yet used the D60 in the 3/4 ton? Surely they did not buy an out-of-house axle that was weaker to place into a higher-demand position?
 

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Just a question: Why did Ford offer the 9" on the 1/2 ton truck, yet used the D60 in the 3/4 ton? Surely they did not buy an out-of-house axle that was weaker to place into a higher-demand position?
FF60 carries the full weight of the rig on the spindles, so the only duty the axle does is turn the wheels v.s. semi float: the axle carries the weight AND turns the wheels
 

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Just a question: Why did Ford offer the 9" on the 1/2 ton truck, yet used the D60 in the 3/4 ton? Surely they did not buy an out-of-house axle that was weaker to place into a higher-demand position?
Who said the D60 was weaker? Stock, the 60 beats the 9 inch for strength, but also weight. Blaze, I'm gonna agree with everyone telling you to go 9 inch. Its lighter, and can be built up to be very strong ($) as your tire size grows. You should be fine with a stock 9" on 35"s.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think it unanimous! The Ford 9" sounds like the way to go.

Now, since I am looking at this. I understand that you are not supposed to run a TruHi9 or Currie HP on the rear. But...Since I have small little tires compared to the Big boys:) a HP should be fine right.

Thanks!
 

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I think it unanimous! The Ford 9" sounds like the way to go.

Now, since I am looking at this. I understand that you are not supposed to run a TruHi9 or Currie HP on the rear. But...Since I have small little tires compared to the Big boys:) a HP should be fine right.

Thanks!
Yes, you will be fine. Keep it below 35's and you will have a damn good reliable set up:smokin:
 

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For the sake of argument.....are you sure you are gonna stick with a 35" tire and go no larger? I blew up a 9" on 33s in an old 79 bronco once, it was a "FREAK" thing but it did happen. I would run a 9" everyday of the week if i knew i was gonna stick with a 35" tire, but if you even considered once going a little larger, id probably lean towards a 60.

I'm sure ALOT of guys will relate to this...

When i was on 33s I convinced myself i could just have fun on stock axles and I did fine....i wanted more. I "needed" :D to go to 35"s, and lockers, I wheeled like a saint, did alot of crazy shit i wasn't supposed to and swore this was as far as i needed to go. Now I have D44s, 4:1 kit, and 37" tires, and guess what.....I want more. :flipoff2: The axle options are getting more and more limited, cash that i threw into stock axles, D44 Axles could have easily built a set of 60s that could handle a 40+ tire which is where i think i want to go now. All I'm trying to say is sit down and think it out well and if theres even the smallest possibility that you want to go larger in the end, it might be worth it to pony up for the D60 now. Good Luck with whatever you decide.
 

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I agree: If you are swapping an axle, do it 1 time. Go with the stronger D60 and then you won't be re-doing it 2 years from now.

I guess my questions arose over stuff i hear regularly & that link provided. To me, there is no comaparison between the 9" and the D60 & D70 they compared it to. I know from drag racing that a D60 SF ( What I ran in a 9 second 'cuda ) was cheaper than a 9". Price a nodular case, stronger pinion support, etc.....
 
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