Pirate 4x4 banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a friend (really I do <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> ) with a '61 (I think) cruiser. He wants to get disc brakes on the front. Which would be the better way to go: Disc brake swap from a Toy p/u or narrow the long side of a D44out of a Chevy 4" and put the wagoneer axle in. I think the latter option is better due to the availability of cheap D44's with 6-lug hubs (found on efor $100.) What do you guys think, who's done it? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,592 Posts
im doing it righ tnow, only im running it full width and not cutting it down(outboarding springs too), tell him to get the 44 he will be so much happier! jiMMy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I just finished putting a d44 up front and d60 rear. Love the setup, I cut the long side down 4.5" and had my axle resplined for $50. Easier to do the spring over too, the particular axle I got worked great, camber is at 0 and pinion angle is pretty good, could turn knuckles but I didn't see the need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
734 Posts
If it's a '61 and was stock, you can't swap in mini-truck brakes. It doesn't have a birfield front end. If this is the case, it would probably be cheaper to go with a 44. It would be less labor-intensive to find a later year LC axle (76+ for discs) because I believe it would just bolt in, but probably more expensive. It pretty much evens out in the end I think.
 

·
Moderating Midget
Joined
·
27,537 Posts
I wheel with a large group of jeeps on one weekend and then I will wheel with a group of Cruisers and I assure you that the D44 (297x) ujoint is stronger than a Birfield.

Birfield <IMG SRC="smilies/nuke.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
941 Posts
If you shorten a 6 lug chevy dana 44 by only 4 inches on the long side you will end up with a 63.5" wide dana 44 that is offset to the drivers side by 1".
Yep, you could use the '80-'84 longside wagoneer in this shortened diff.

BTW If the cruiser is a '61 then it probably had a centered rear diff which was 53" WTW with 10 spline axle shafts.

Fitting that front end through Rimrock or Elbe Hills will be a little interesting. Spending half the day wedged between stumps and trees isn't a whole lot of fun IMO (I've seen it before at elbe).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Brody, did you run into any problems putting the D44 in? Who resplined the axle, can most machine shops do that? We may have to cut more than 4" to get it to match the rear, or swap in a disc braked rear axle of some sort (D60.)

Jeff, if your reading this post...REGISTER! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> You could use "Monkeyboy" for your screen name
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 09-25-2001: Message edited by: seattlek5 ]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
941 Posts
Dutchman (in Portland) will respline axle shafts for $85/pair. With shipping both ways it cost me $105 from Bellingham.

There is a guy in Tacoma and one in Bremerton who respline axles for $40-$50 each. I don't have their names or numbers but someone on here might know.

BTW I would rather have a resplined axle shaft than a stock one. This is because the stock ones have a necked down area right before the splines (=weakpoint). Just ask DSI on the toy/4runner section how many he has broken right there <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,701 Posts
Originally posted by Brody Baker:
<STRONG>I just finished putting a d44 up front and d60 rear. Love the setup, I cut the long side down 4.5" and had my axle resplined for $50. Easier to do the spring over too, the particular axle I got worked great, camber is at 0 and pinion angle is pretty good, could turn knuckles but I didn't see the need.</STRONG>
Brody - when they shortened the long side did they re-tube (pull the tube out of the center section and shorten it), or take the knuckle end off and cut it there? Just curious. Thanks, Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
941 Posts
Cutting the end off and removing it from the remnant piece of tube then reinstalling it is the easiest route.
Removing the tube from the diff casting is a royal pain in the A$$. <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">

It is such a pain that on a Reverse Cut dana 44 front that I'm working on I had a 2 3/4" (thick wall) dana 44 tube machined to fit inside the 3" (thin wall) RC D44 tube so I wouldn't have to remove the original tube from the diff casting.
<IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,701 Posts
Originally posted by Tankota:
<STRONG>Cutting the end off and removing it from the remnant piece of tube then reinstalling it is the easiest route.
</STRONG>
Have you done this? - I am contemplating trying this! Thanks, Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Yep he's done it, Gods good graces, strong beer, and a visit from the financial fairy and you'll see one of the products he's weldin up installed on my rig soon.
-Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,701 Posts
Originally posted by Sixgun:
<STRONG>Yep he's done it, Gods good graces, strong beer, and a visit from the financial fairy and you'll see one of the products he's weldin up installed on my rig soon.
-Rick</STRONG>
For the front of the Rickmobile, no less, huh? Glad to hear the fj60 axle swap went well. Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I just cut the end off and shortened the housing to the appropriate length and rewelded it to the tube and had moser respline the shaft. Pretty reasonable aboud $50 and took 5 days to get back from the day i shipped it. I was really happy with the work except that the didn't give my u-joint back to me.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top