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Discussion Starter #1
is this axle as strong or stronger than a 60 from a doner vehichle. im wanting something trouble free from the start to put in the rear of my yj! oh yeah and does anybody know the cheapest place to purchase one?
 

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The housing is stronger and has greater clearance.
Most donor 60's are "trouble free" in a YJ though. How many have you broken?
Never heard of a cheap Pro-Rock.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i am running a d44 in the rear now and im ready to upgrade to the d60. i guess i just dont know enough about what to look for to get a donor axle. like sf/ff/ the best years to get and things like that . some goes with the 14blt, so i figured it would be easier to buy something
 

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I run a ProRock and they have a tremendous track record and are run by numerous competitors. It would probably be the last rear axle you'll ever need and its warrenteed up to a year. I bought mine straight through dynatrac, it wasn't cheap but to me was worth it.
 

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I prefer the FF.
Rear standard 60's are everywhere.
Here is one I cut down to 62". I used a HP front housing. The tubes, spindles and hubs are from a 79 Ford F250.

About everything you need to know about 60's is here,
http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/bi...ront Axle.htm
 

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what size tire you plan to run may be an important factor in axle choice too! a FF 14 bolt, while stronger than a 60, has a big diff that will hang up on rocks more often than the 60 and the extra weight capacity of the 14 isn't needed in a YJ. Even a 60 has much more capacity than you'll need. Obviously it's the strength of the internals that necessitates the swap. If you get 35 spline 60 stuff, you'll effectively have the same strength axle shafts as the 14, have less weight to haul around, and have better diff clearance. The ProRock is VERY cool but for what they charge for one, it should be able to install itself and bring you a frosty beverage at the same time.

If you're shopping for FF axles, always pull an axle shaft and count the splines. Lots of 30 spline stuff out there that you wouldn't want to waste your time with. :mad:
 

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cj5driver said:
what size tire you plan to run may be an important factor in axle choice too! a FF 14 bolt, while stronger than a 60, has a big diff that will hang up on rocks more often than the 60 and the extra weight capacity of the 14 isn't needed in a YJ. Even a 60 has much more capacity than you'll need. Obviously it's the strength of the internals that necessitates the swap. If you get 35 spline 60 stuff, you'll effectively have the same strength axle shafts as the 14, have less weight to haul around, and have better diff clearance. The ProRock is VERY cool but for what they charge for one, it should be able to install itself and bring you a frosty beverage at the same time.

If you're shopping for FF axles, always pull an axle shaft and count the splines. Lots of 30 spline stuff out there that you wouldn't want to waste your time with. :mad:
I don't believe a 35 sp D60 is strong than a 14 bolt by any means. You can always get aftermarket shafts for a 14 bolt, and I've seen 46 splines for it. Also the 14 bolt is 30 splines stock, and will easily hold to 42" tires. Don't waste your money on a dynarape products unless you have tons of cash to throw around.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
does anyone know a price of the danatrac pro 60? i an planning on running 37 inch boggers but i want something that will be very hard to break and i figure a d60 behind a 4.0 and 37s is basically bomb proof even for the hard stuff. correct me if i am wrong please, because i want to do this right the first time. oh yeah and i plan on running a d44 up front will this hold up tuff to the 37s after i put new shafts and ctm joints? i just dont want the weight of a 60 up front.
 

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I just recived a quote from them a couple of weeks ago.
Rear pro rock starts at $3240, add ARB for $639, add disc brakes for $388, and finish it off with the TJ brackets and spring mounts for $450. SO for $4717 you can have a rear with your choice of gear ratio ready to bolt in. Don't forget the air compressor for the ARB add another $169. HAVE A NICE DAY!;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
wow thats kinda yeah right ... but i guess it gives you the comfort of knowing that it will last, but thats some expensive fawkin comfort. does anyone know of a good place to pick up a d60 over here on right coast????
 

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jyurs said:
does anyone know a price of the danatrac pro 60? i an planning on running 37 inch boggers but i want something that will be very hard to break and i figure a d60 behind a 4.0 and 37s is basically bomb proof even for the hard stuff. correct me if i am wrong please, because i want to do this right the first time. oh yeah and i plan on running a d44 up front will this hold up tuff to the 37s after i put new shafts and ctm joints? i just dont want the weight of a 60 up front.

IMO a D60 rear and a D44front with alloy shafts and CTM's is
fine for 37's on a YJ. A D60 front would be totally "bulletproof",
but you'll be hard pressed to break a front D44 with the alloys/CTM.
 

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I would check with your local 4X4 shop. They will be able to whittle a little bit off the Dynatrac price, Though you aren't going to save much if you are talking about a high pinion. They would then be building from some used parts.

If you are a totall do it yourselfer you can keep your eyes peeled for old F350's, Hopefully get a hookup on a complete front 60 for cheap, press out the short side tube, (or other options) weld on some ends (you do have a fixture don't you?) scrounge up a spindle from a 14 bolt, and some donor axles to have resplined, or have semi float customs made up. This would save the most coin. still not as much as you would like to. Now if you gave up the high pinion rear 60's are very cheap as cores.

Reality is by the time you look at all your options you still need to spend some pretty big bucks unless you have ton's of patience, don't get paid well at what you do now (or your time isn't worth much) and a have REALLY bitchen set of tools, and can use them. If not you are on the just write a check team.

I want to be on that team.:flipoff2:
 

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If I had the money, Id buy a pro rock 60 in a heart beat, I've helped install one, and I may help install another here shortly, and I have to say in my opinon Dynatrac makes some of the best axles out there, but you get what you pay for. I will have to buy junkyard and build them by taking my time. I just don't have the money for pro rocks. If you have the cash, then do it.
Just my opinion.
Scott
 

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I wish the hell I was doin a 60 in the rear of
a YJ!
You may have seen my post about TJ 60's frt & rear?
If you just snoop around a bit you'll find that
a low pinion rear 60 for a YJ can be built
for about 1/2 the price of a Dynatrac!
You shold be able to one with a Detorit, 35 spline
and disk breaks along with gettin it cut to lenght
and new shafts!
You can even check here if ya want to save a few bucks? http://www.tellico4x4.com/axle/dana60.htm
If I had $10,000 to blow on axles I'd call
Dynatrac myself!
I think I can do the frt and rear for 1/2 that :D
GWT
 

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cj5driver said:
a FF 14 bolt, while stronger than a 60, has a big diff that will hang up on rocks more often than the 60 and the extra weight capacity of the 14 isn't needed in a YJ.
i can understand the wieght thing but cant u shave a 14b to have more clearance than a shaved 60????
 

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whitefro said:
i can understand the wieght thing but cant u shave a 14b to have more clearance than a shaved 60????
Can't see how that's possible with a 3/4" bigger ring gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thanks for the help guys im not sure what i will do yet but i will keep u posted. my next task is do i go rear coil overs or 1/4 elip... any i deas and which will do better on the street if need be?
 

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Waggoner Machine Shop is just finishing up my D60 rear ...
I sent them a de-tubed $500 (shipped price) HP D60 center section I found on this board and the spindles and hubs I cut off a trashed $75 35 spline D70 FF rear that I'd found locally.

Just got the estimated bill ...

Wagoner Machine Shop · 218 N Cherokee Ave · Claremore, OK 74017-7034 · (918) 341-1722

Rear End
Fab custom (diff top) control arm pad $150.00
Shave housing w/cover $450.00
Brake kit w/parking brake $650.00
Press in new tubes & install spindles $325.00
Custom (Mosser) FF shafts $295.00
Bearings and seals $120.00
Wheel studs $32.00

All that's left is to add the R & Pinon, ARB and insert the FF axels.
Saved a pretty penny off a D-Trac!
And Casey was great to work with. :cool:
 

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Anyone know what a ProRock housing with just tubes costs, off-hand.
 

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cj5driver said:
a FF 14 bolt, while stronger than a 60, has a big diff that will hang up on rocks more often than the 60
My 14 bolt has only 1/4" less clearance at it's lowest point than my front 60. It has been clearanced but not shaved/plated. They are not that different.
 
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