[Serious One]

Yes I did a search! :flipoff2:

I have an ARB snorkel but I don't want to use it. I like it, like the looks etc...but it doesn't allow me to open my front doors 180 degrees, and I like that feature. So, I'm looking for other options.

I know about Mantec and Southdown (basically the same right?), but am looking for every and all option. I could make one here locally, which is probably what will end up happening, but I want to make sure I'm not overlooking anything obvious.

I'll try to run a stock RR filter/canister with a Centri pre-cleaner. If I get cheap I'll just use the Donaldson that I got with my ARB snorkel.

The flip side of this is I now have an ARB snorkel, new, that is for sale. Make offer, I don't know what this thing is worth (nothing to me right now apparently). I'd throw in the Donaldson if the price was right. :flipoff2:

So, now give me your snorkel ideas/suggestions!

 

[road1will]

well my vote goes for locally made. find a local muffler shop that can do mandrel bending, and have them make you a tube out of some nice stainless steel, then throw your pre cleaner on top and polish it up. bling bling :flipoff2:

 

[Serious One]

yeah, I'll start looking for a good exhaust shop today.

speaking of stainless steel, why are the brackets I had made showing rust stains? I specifically had them made out of stainless so they WOULDN'T rust (should have had them made out of aluminum I s'pose). Stainless hardware, cad-plated light bracket, plastic light housing.

I wouldn't be so picky but the damn thing's only been on there a week. Also, with the white paint of the rear box, the rust stains show up quite well. Yes, they are really stainless.

Confused!

:BACK TO THREAD:

So, for a 350 should I use 2inch intake tubing? I think that's what's on the air cleaner right now, but I wouldn't mind going bigger. Is there a reason that the tubing needs to stay the same i.d. throughout the run of the snorkel, or if I started with bigger tubing and then had it waisted down is that a problem? Don't think it would be, but I'm no rocket scientist.

Also, I'm thinking of running one of those Tornado Fuel Savers just under the precleaner, and then again right before the carburetter. I'm worried that the vortex action might stop with all the bends in the snorkel, so I want to try to start it again right before the carburetter.

 

[road1will]

stainless steel is not rust proof, only rust resistant. if it is a low grade it will rust quite normally, as the falcon "stainless steel" exhaust on my series can attest to.

i would use larger tubing than 2", that is tiny! i would go with at least whatever diameter exhaust you have, maybe up it by a half inch or so.

on my series i think i have 3 or 3.5" intake tubing on my snorkel, i would have to check.

 

[Serious One]

yeah, now that I think about it it's a lot bigger than 2 inches, maybe the air intake is more like 4 inches. Should I use that as my guide, the diameter of the air intake hose?

Rust resistant? What a ripoff. Should be called stain-resistant steel IMO.

 

[road1will]

yeah it does suck, but with proper care it will last; but then again so would regular steel.

i would go by the diameter of the stock intake hose, that way you wouldnt be adding any more restriction than what you already have.

sounds like a plan.

 

[Serious One]

You got any pics of good looking snorkels? I'm not into the PVC look, I want it to be very clean and tight.

 

[road1will]

ill do some looking, a while ago there was a picture of a range rover posted that had a mandrel bent snorkel, it looked pretty good and should give you some ideas.

will report back with results.

 

[white130]

Rusty Stainless

Hey Michael, by any chance was the stainless cleaned with a carbon steel brush. I have made this mistake once. The brand new shiney roofrack bled all over the rover

David.

Oh yea with each bend of the snorkle the airflow decreases so the biggest diameter you can get by with is what you want. Of course it has to look good too, you don't want a stove pipe stickin' out of the fender..

 

[Serious One]

btw, this is for the Defender, not the RR's.

Thx.

Wht130....maybe. I don't know. I'm going to hit it with some LPS3 to try to stop any more corrosion.

 

[Old Scout]

I take care of millions of dollars worth of stainless equipment.

400 of these food grade tankers:

and a few 100 beer fermenters:

Fresh from the steel mill SS (three series are higher) is a no rust metal, but it is easily commentated with other alloys that will cause rust. Any use of a tool that has been used on Ferrous metal will contaminate the SS and start the corroison process.

There is a chemical treatment to stop/remove the rust and prevent it from happening again. This process is called Pickling or Passivation.

There is a ton of info on how to do passivation on stainless on the net. My suggestion is search for "Citric Acid Stainless Steel Passivation"

I wish I had more time to explain the process.
Bob

 

[SeaRover]

stainless rusting

michael - do some digging in marine-equipment and ship yard websites around the net for how to treat stainless. i know this is a continuous battle for these folks. you might be able to locate a ship yard on the coast somewhere that would be willing to do light fabrication for you with more suitable preparation of the materials. just an idea -

cheers,

isaac

 

[Serious One]

geeze, when OS started downloading pics I was all excited to see snorkel designs.

All I get is a lousy milk truck and some beer steins??? Bummer.

Yeah, I'm sure that these pieces were contaminated. I'll look on the web to see what I can find to do the pickling.

Thanks!

 

[JSBriggs]

What is the CFM. How amy feet of pipe, how may bends. Ill run it through a duct sizing calculator.
-Jeff

 

[RoverOn]

I think the snorkle you were talking about is mine..

Total cost of all snorkle parts...including pre-cleaner <$125

3 inch tubing and 3 inch high temp hose. I have the summit racing part number for the hose somewhere...I can post it if anyone needs it.

The mandrel bent piece was like $37 or something...didn't use stainless, but aluminized something or other...

We built two of them at the same time and the other guy powdercoated his black and it looks great...I left mine silver...

I would also like to warn you to check the CFM of the donaldson they sent you with the ARB...I think it is woefully inadequate...I ended up getting a bigger donaldson with more than enough CFM...you can buy them at any filter supply company...

Here is the thread

www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=76908

I can post any other pics if you want...

 

[Serious One]

Yeah, your snorkel is exactly what I want.

The Donaldson that I got from ARB yes, it was $75 so I think I got schnookered on that one. Now that I know my local Donaldson rep, I can get the big boy. I'm debating between it and the Centri (but it's almost $200 I think).

Thanks for the pic.

 

[fcfred]

slade,

I know it will cost more money, but a snorkel made from rectangular aluminum tubing could be way cool. Something similar to an ARB, but in a dull aluminum or Black annodized.

Yes it would be spendy, but if you don't do it I just might say you cut corners.:flipoff2:

 

[RoverOn]

The big boy Donaldson is ~$45.

The one you paid ARB $75 for is ~$27

I agree the Centri is killer, but it would have doubled my budget and regardless of the centri being metal...I can still see smacking it pretty good in the woods (not a problem for you desert folk) and wouldn't want to pay $200 every time I smack it up...

The Donaldson that ejects the dirt is only aobut $55...but is even bigger than the giant one I have...

The tip on the Donaldsons it to empty the hopper b4 going highway speeds, as it only works to about 55mph and you will start sucking the sand/dirt into the intake at that point...

Dave

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Here's a home brew from a DefenderI just found on the 'net. I'd be interested to see what the ARB looks like...

http://www.4x4ever.it/snorkel.htm

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

OK, found a pict. Fulgy!

http://www.tiendacibex.com/index.html