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Could someone tell me what the advantages are of a Detroit Locker (not an EZ locker) over a Lockright? Is it a strength issue, or what? If so, anyone have trouble with lockrights?
 

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Assuming you are talking about a Toy 8"Diff. I have ran a lockright for about 3 years. It's ok and has done everything I have expected of it. I get on it pretty hard sometimes too. Strength wise, the Detroit is definetly stronger and you would probably never break it. Lockrights OTOH could fail ie: little pins fail, stripped or broken teeth, even broken cross pin. If you have the money and are going to run a Toy axle for a long time, get a detroit. If your on a budget, need a locker, and don't hardcore wheel everyday, get the LR. JMO!! I don't think you'll notice much difference between the 2 on the street, the LR will probably be easier to hear though click-click-click-click-boom! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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toy's seem to have good luck with the lockrites. i say save the $$$ and get one or two of them.
 

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The added carier strength is practically a non-issue with Toyota 8" diff's...

I think it would be downright foolish to spend $450 on a Detroit to just lock the rear when for a few bucks you can be locked front AND rear...

I run a lockright in the rear and never had a single problem out of it <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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The added carier strength is practically a non-issue with Toyota 8" diff's...

Maybe, but any slop or wear in a worn diff will be audible and likely lead to failure with a LR.

This still doesn't even address the risk of a LR failure as mentioned above. I know DRM has never had a problem <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">, but that doesn't exactly mean no-one else never has.
 

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Originally posted by little_joe:
Maybe, but any slop or wear in a worn diff will be audible and likely lead to failure with a LR.

If you spec out the carrier before the install (like the directions tel you to), there is no reason for failure of the lockright doe to "slop". And to be honest, I don;t see that "audible" has to do with this?

This still doesn't even address the risk of a LR failure as mentioned above. I know DRM has never had a problem <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">, but that doesn't exactly mean no-one else never has.

"risk of failure"? There is a risk of failure from ANYTHING...

I would like to hear from anyone who had a lockright fail in an 8" diff that knows for a FACT the carrier was in spec BEFORE they installed the locker...

Other than that, pin failure is the most common problem, and an easy fix...

Most people buy Detroits because someone told them they were better... period. But if you want best bang for your wheelin' dollar - my front & rear lockrights would out wheel your "stronger" rear Detroit any day <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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Especially if you drive this truck on the street a lot, you really ought to get the Detroit. It behaves CONSIDERABLY better than the LockRite.
 

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Can you install a lock-Right easy or do you need to have a shop do it. I have precision measuring tools, but no experience installing or removing rear ends.
 

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Originally posted by swilson:
<STRONG>Especially if you drive this truck on the street a lot, you really ought to get the Detroit. It behaves CONSIDERABLY better than the LockRite.</STRONG>
I have to laugh every time I hear this <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Lockrights are far from being "that bad" for on road manners... But as with any auto-locker they are more noticable the smaller the diameter of the tire.


Lockrights are MUCH easier to insatll - since you are just replacing the spider gears where a Detroit would be replacing the entire carrier.
 

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I have experience with both lockers in 4 cyl carriers. I sheared the 4 pins in my rear Lock-right all at once while only running 32" tires. The Lock-Right clicks and screaches on most of the corners. I now have a Detroit NoSPIN in the rear. It spins 35" swampers and has held up fine. (knock on wood) The tires will chirp around corners but not all the time. As for ease of install. Yes the Lock-Rights just replace the spider gears so it is easy, with the Detroit you just bolt the ring gear to the Dertoit. So they are both relatively easy. I put my 3rd's together I just don't set up the gears. I'm planning on going Lock-Right in the front soon just because I already have one. Oh yes which I might add... Powertrax (Lock-Right) does do a good job warrantying their stuff when it breaks. Thats my .02

[ 08-08-2001: Message edited by: klr_toy ]
 

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The detroit is the strongest Diff short of a spool. Period.

I know a Jeeper that had his LR waranteed 3 times in a month before finally sucking it up and buying Detroits. He's had 2 Detriots on a twin-stick, 9-inch and D44 axles, 35" boggers, a 4:1 T-case, and 401 V8 for 5 years without incident.

IMO, the Detroit is much more likely to survive an axleshaft failure. I've heard of blown shafts taking a LockRite with them (But this isn't on a Yota, so take it FWIW)

Here's how I'd sum it up:

* If I was planning on eventually running in Top Truck Challenge, or running on 8 cylinders, I'd buy a Detriot.

* If I was going to play 'round town and in some sandy washes with a 22RE I'd go with the LR to save some coin.
 

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I've ran both.
Detroit soft locker runs realy smooth on the
road and I love it. I'll never go back to
lock-rite. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by MasterYota:
The detroit is the strongest Diff short of a spool. Period.

Can't argue there...

I know a Jeeper that had his LR waranteed 3 times in a month before finally sucking it up and buying Detroits. He's had 2 Detriots on a twin-stick, 9-inch and D44 axles, 35" boggers, a 4:1 T-case, and 401 V8 for 5 years without incident.

First off - you cannot compare different axles in this conversation. Dana 35c rear axles eat lockrights and EZ lockers like snakc cakes...
For a Dana 35c for examople - you are BEGGING for a lockright failure due not to the locker itself - but to a ntoriously weak carrier, and housing flex...

IMO, the Detroit is much more likely to survive an axleshaft failure. I've heard of blown shafts taking a LockRite with them (But this isn't on a Yota, so take it FWIW)

I will say this is incorrect. Detroits are VERY bad about self destructing when a front shaft lets go (rear ones too for that matter). Seen it happen probably 20 times... not that a lockright is better (I actually think it is, but that is a LONG discussion for some other time) but Detroits are known for failing like this.
 

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I have had my Lockright in the rear toy 8" for going on four years now. I love it and feel that the banging and clanking is a real treat to my ears. I know it id there and awaiting the trails and all the torture that I dish out to it. I don't baby my rig and have yet to have either a Birfield break or the locker. I love the look on peoples faces whan I turn and the axle snaps out of locked position, dirt even falls of the rig <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
My $0.02
Danny
Danny
 

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Originally posted by Boom-boom Shacka-lacka-lacka-boom:
Originally posted by MasterYota:
I know a Jeeper that had his LR waranteed 3 times in a month before finally sucking it up and buying Detroits. He's had 2 Detriots on a twin-stick, 9-inch and D44 axles, 35" boggers, a 4:1 T-case, and 401 V8 for 5 years without incident.
<STRONG>
First off - you cannot compare different axles in this conversation. Dana 35c rear axles eat lockrights and EZ lockers like snakc cakes...
For a Dana 35c for examople - you are BEGGING for a lockright failure due not to the locker itself - but to a ntoriously weak carrier, and housing flex...
</STRONG>
Uh... What? He had a Dana 44 in the front and a Ford 9 in the rear for the entire scenario I've mentioned (All of the LRs and the Detriots he's still got)

I agree with you about the D35. I've run with him for a while, and first met him when he had a 9" rear and the D35 front. I then proceeded to watch him blow four shafts / differentials in two months. Finally tweaked his housing and got the D44. He kept the D35 that long because he had a hook-up on used parts for free.

Got the D44 and threw in a L.R. they have excellent warranty service - I'll give them that. Got it replaced, but went Detriot after the second one died when he blew a Ujoint (1st one did on it's own) and hasn't had a problem since.

I said what I did b/c I've seen that LR die when a U-joint let go. I've never seen a Detriot die at all, but that don't mean it can't happen.
 

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hmmm...well, FWIW, I have Detroits in mine, never had a lock-rite. I have three seperate friends, all with 8" Toyota rears, two out of three have blown them up. On one the cross pin sheared, the other one the teeth stripped. The third one has had his for at least 4 years now and hasn't had one bit of trouble. I don't know the condition of the carriers when they were installed, but they were installed at the same time as a gear change, I would make the assumption that the carriers were fine, as they were installed by a shop.
 

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Originally posted by Boom-boom Shacka-lacka-lacka-boom:
<STRONG>I have to laugh every time I hear this <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Lockrights are far from being "that bad" for on road manners...
</STRONG>
And I laugh every time I hear you go "aw, they're not that bad."

In my experience, the Detroit is NOTICABLY better behaved on the street.
 
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