Diamond turning radius

2619 Views 33 Replies 17 Participants Last post by RUFF, Dec 1, 2006

Izeloz

Discussion Starter · Nov 24, 2006

I think I would like to go with Diamond axles front and rear, but I have a few questions for those people who make them and those who run them. First off, I don't plan to run any larger than a 37" tire on them. This will be a weekend warrior rig that sees more road time than trail time. I plan to go wider than stock and was wondering if anyone had any "magic" or good numbers to shoot for. I do mostly rock-crawling and snow runs (I'm in Utah, so Moab in the spring, summer and fall and snow in the winter). My primary question is on turning radius, though. If I go with the stock toyota closed knuckle setup but run Longfield 30-spliners and wider-than-stock axle, am I looking at much difference from stock when it comes to turning radius? Or would I be happier running 60 outers? Thanks for any input.

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JeepRecoveryTeam

· #2 · Nov 24, 2006

Izeloz said:
If I go with the stock toyota closed knuckle setup but run Longfield 30-spliners and wider-than-stock axle, am I looking at much difference from stock when it comes to turning radius? Or would I be happier running 60 outers? Thanks for any input.

You'll definitely turn sharper with 60 knuckles. We've played with all sorts of ways to get more steering out of a yota knuckle. The birf is not the limiting factor the felts and backing ring get crushed long before the birf gets pissed.

With a wider front housing you do get out of the springs which will give you modest improvements.

d

Izeloz

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 24, 2006

Okay. Thanks for answering that. Hope you don't mind a followup question. I was wondering if it would be possible to use the new Dana60 Longfield birfs (CVs) that Bobby has with a diamond that has a yota center section? I know all the talk about "go 60 or go home" or the 60/9, but I honestly don't need the strength of the 60 or the 60/9 when it comes to the center-section. I am only going to be running a 22RE and this is going to be a relatively mild wheeler. I just want the bling, better clearance, and better turning and stability that a custom axle can provide.

JeepRecoveryTeam

· #4 · Nov 24, 2006

Izeloz said:
Okay. Thanks for answering that. Hope you don't mind a followup question. I was wondering if it would be possible to use the new Dana60 Longfield birfs (CVs) that Bobby has with a diamond that has a yota center section? I know all the talk about "go 60 or go home" or the 60/9, but I honestly don't need the strength of the 60 or the 60/9 when it comes to the center-section. I am only going to be running a 22RE and this is going to be a relatively mild wheeler. I just want the bling, better clearance, and better turning and stability that a custom axle can provide.

I've actually been thinking about this alot myself. I personally believe that the Tundra/T100 chunk with the carrier bearing supports is extremely reliable.

Bobby's CV is 35 Spline.

My understanding is that Marlin developed a 35 Spline side gear that works with a Detroit and Tech Tim (formerly of ARB) told me that ARB has 35 Spline side gears for both the 8 and 8.4 chunk.

What I don't know is if in the process of broaching out to 35 spline, the side gears become a liability.

I'll try to get a hold of Tim and find out some details.

d

Izeloz

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 24, 2006

Keep me updated. I'd be interested in hearing what you find out.

Flygtenstein

· #6 · Nov 24, 2006

Magic numbers?

I am at 67ish front and 64 with spacers in the rear. Doing it again, I would ask for a rear that would take Tundra shafts to avoid pure custom stuff.

With 8" wide wheels on 3.25 BS and 37" MT/R's I fit tightly between normal trailer fenders.

If you run 65 front, 64 rear, you will be a little more in the fenders but plenty wide. Any narrow and you get closer to being able to run Taco rear shafts. Wider and you start calling the cops. My tires are all the way out of my fenders on a 95.

The sole steering benefit is being away from the springs, as was already mentioned. Combined the width on a bodied truck and you are away from the firewal and limit some trimming and all tubbing provided standard forward axle placement.

cheap sunglasses

· #7 · Nov 24, 2006

Izeloz said:
I was wondering if it would be possible to use the new Dana60 Longfield birfs (CVs) that Bobby has with a diamond that has a yota center section?

The Longfield D60 birfs are $1850 for a set!

What exactly makes them worth the extra $$$ over Longfield u-joints or CTMs?

JeepRecoveryTeam

· #8 · Nov 24, 2006

cheap sunglasses said:
The Longfield D60 birfs are $1850 for a set! What exactly makes them worth the extra $$$ over Longfield u-joints or CTMs?

Totally pulling it out of my ass... but I would bet the 60 stuff is twice as strong as a 30 Spliner.

The normal person will never break a 30 spliner.
A jackass can break anything
A wheeler, even doing big shit, will most likely never break a 60 CV.

Pook

· #9 · Nov 24, 2006 (Edited)

I'm wondering if a you could build a toyota center chunk housing with dana44 outers and install the longfield 30 splines? If bobby had some of those cv dirt shields for them like he does the 60 cv. Could be a way to get more steering angle while still running the cheaper but beefy 30 splines. Then somehow adapt the toy aisin locking hubs with longfield hub gears.

Islandzuki

· #10 · Nov 24, 2006

the D44 idea sounds interestiong but do you guys think that the extra turning radius is really nessecary(sp?)????? most diamond axles are on trail rigs that may see a few comps (of course except for Jeeprecoveryteam) but for the rest of us I wouldnt think it would matter......

CronusTRD

· #11 · Nov 24, 2006 (Edited)

64" is an ideal width, but that's just me

As far as turning radius, the tires are out of the springs. Shortening a long wheel base helps as well.

If you were going to go with the extra expense of running 60 outers, just go with a stock 60 and cut it down. 30 splines will be fine for a weekend warrior on 37s (that's how my Tacoma is in theprocess of being set up)

Chrisbuilt

· #12 · Nov 24, 2006

I like the 44 outer idea with 30 spline longfeild. I beleive it has been discused b4 but the spindle hole in the 44 knuckle is too small to get the birf through. I would love some longs for my D44.

Anybody ever try to weld toy balls onto a 44 housing?

Chrisbuilt

· #13 · Nov 24, 2006

is the 30 spline toy stuff the same spline pitch as a dana 44? compatible?

vikingsven

· #14 · Nov 24, 2006

The major problem with Dana 44 ends are the ball joints. Yes, you get more steering angle but at the expense of strength. The toy bearing setup is VERY strong.

Chrisbuilt

· #15 · Nov 24, 2006

Chrisbuilt said:
Anybody ever try to weld toy balls onto a 44 housing?

?????

kiyul4130

· #16 · Nov 24, 2006

Chrisbuilt said:
is the 30 spline toy stuff the same spline pitch as a dana 44? compatible?

i can tell you right now that the d44 stubs splines are a lot bigger than the toys. i think the 44s are 19 splines on the stubs if im correct?

vikingsven

· #17 · Nov 24, 2006

Chrisbuilt said:
?????

Sounds kinda perverted huh?:laughing:

vikingsven

· #18 · Nov 24, 2006 (Edited)

kiyul4130 said:
i can tell you right now that the d44 stubs splines are a lot bigger than the toys. i think the 44s are 19 splines on the stubs if im correct?

You are correct. You'd need either different d44 hub internals to be used in conjunction with a toy-splined birf, or a "d44 19 splined birf" stub shaft...

Chrisbuilt

· #19 · Nov 25, 2006

I was thinking that if i could weld toyota balls on the dana 44 tubes I could use toyota inner and outer shafts, knuckles, brakes everything. IS it possible, or been done b4?

vikingsven

· #20 · Nov 25, 2006

It's possible but why whould you go thru all that work? The toy R&P is about as strong as a D44 R&P, and if you cryo the gears, probably stronger. Plus, you'd lose clearance with the D44 pumpkin over the toy.
I don't see the point in it personally.

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