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I am looking for a welder as many others, however it is the mig welders that are most offen discussed here. I am looking for a stick welder, I don't want to mess with gass right now. What do you all recomend to look for in a stick welder? Thanks
 

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I don't know how to weld w/ stick, I heard that takes a lot more practice than mig or flux core wire feed. I was wondering if you just don't want to mess w/ gas, why don't you consider a wire feed welder (MIG w/ flux core wire and no gas) which is a lot easier than stick and gets better penetration than mig.

[ 10-11-2001: Message edited by: marco ]
 

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look man if your gonna buy a welder you want to buy only once. that means buying a 220 mig. and if you are scared of gas <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> just get flux core. if you buy an arc youll be kickin yourself right in the ass in a few months.
 

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Just about any Lincoln or Miller or Hobart stick will be fine go for 220 amp range. There are lots of the used Lincoln "tombstone" style buzz boxes for sale. If you find one that is AC/DC instead of just AC jump on it. If you are just starting to stick weld you will want to run AC at first because it is easier, but if you are welding on housings and things like that you can do a little better with the DC.
 

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Originally posted by superbob:
<STRONG>I am looking for a welder as many others, however it is the mig welders that are most offen discussed here. I am looking for a stick welder, I don't want to mess with gass right now. What do you all recomend to look for in a stick welder? Thanks</STRONG>
Most Bang for the buck is a AC225 Lincoln Arc. $225 at Home Depot. For stuff like bumpers and skids it's the ticket. Once you can weld with it there is nothing to welding with a MIG. Just don't thing about welding sheetmetal with it.
I'm looking for a Mig but for crude stuff of thick metal I will alwasy look at the 225 first.
Yeah there is some spatter but once you learn how to do it you can weld 1/4 plate to 3/4 plate in one pass no problem. would take a very healthy Mig to do that in one pass.
 

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Originally posted by Pig Pen:
<STRONG>look man if your gonna buy a welder you want to buy only once. that means buying a 220 mig. and if you are scared of gas <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> just get flux core. if you buy an arc youll be kickin yourself right in the ass in a few months.</STRONG>
I just bought a stick to suppliment my mig and run a scratch start tig conversion that I may be able to pick up for free. I can make stick welds cheaper and prettier and in less time on the thicker parts compared to MIG.
 

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Originally posted by Pig Pen:
<STRONG>look man if your gonna buy a welder you want to buy only once. that means buying a 220 mig. and if you are scared of gas <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> just get flux core. if you buy an arc youll be kickin yourself right in the ass in a few months.</STRONG>
I bought my Stick welder almost a year ago now I use it for everything. There has not been a time yet when I haven't wished I bought a Mig first.
Rollcage work yah maybe the mig would be easier and look better but if you take your time you can make it look nice.

I think a plasma cutter will be purchased before I buy a MIG <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

There will always be things that you want to stick rather then MIG.
 

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I agree with Grimmy... Look for a Lincoln 225. An AC/DC would be best, but once you get used to a stick welder you can do anything. Its like driving a 5 speed...takes some practice but in the end you won't regret it. I'm just learning on how to stick weld with a 225, and it is really not that hard. Just buy a 5lb box of 6011 rod and find some scrap to practice on.

You could probably walk out of Home Depot with a Lincoln 225, a helmet, and rod for under $350.
 

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I walked out of home depot with a lincoln 110v wire feed that can be converted to MIG for $350 about a week ago. I haven't dont anything special with it yet, but the little bits of scrap I've played with it did well with.
 

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I bought my lincoln 225 ac/dc unit about a year ago and love it. As was said before, you can weld the thick stuff real easy. You would have to spend a lot more money to be able to weld thick stuff with a mig.
 

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Definitely get one with DC, more rod choices.

If you are welding thicker steel you are a lot better off with a stick.

It is nice to have both wire & stick because both are better suited for different applications, however if you only plan on having one and are going to be welding 1/2" plate down to light guaged steel, go with the stick.

The thinner the material, the smaller the rod size.

The Lincoln & Miller are both good machines.

[ 10-11-2001: Message edited by: Hayraker* ]
 

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A stick welder is a good way to get a good welder that will cover the varied thicknesses fabrication of 4X's needs. I would start with a 6013 because it is one of the easyest rods to use but not the srongest. To learn it is a good choice though. If you do use 6013 then go to a good welding shop and get it there so that it is fresh, good rod not crap that has been sitting on Napa auto parts shelf for the last 4 yrs. It often makes a big deal on the way the rod starts and how well the slag chips off. Any of the welders listed are good ones so don't be swayed into getting a cheep Mig welder buy the stick now and get a good Mig when you are ready.
 

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Originally posted by mighty duck:
<STRONG>dont forget about how easy it is to use a 7018. i have always found them easier to use then a 6013 and a 6011.</STRONG>
In AC? <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">
 

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I agree with Gordon...It is easy to make a stick weld pretty...however the rest of your work area is splattered like $hit. Also, it takes some real tallent to work stick in confined areas.

One more note about rod choices: This is what I learned in welding 101...6010 or 6011 is for the FIRST pass to help clean and penetrate. Then you use 7018 over it and for filler.
As for using AC or DC because it's easier is incorrect also (still according to my class). You are supposed to choose between them depending on what you are welding and whether you need the bead on the surface or deeper penetration.

[ 10-12-2001: Message edited by: Scout Dude ]
 

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I just used a lincoln 225 to fab up some spring hangers and such.... it took a little practice but it's not that difficult. The 7018 rod rocks... nice clean welds (once you chip the slag off) The hardest part is striking the initial arc without the rod sticking.
 

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One bit of welding 101
You push when mig welding and pull when arch welding. So when you are arch welding you will have the rod angled forward in the 1-2 o:clock position.
When you do get some rod to use read what polarity it needs or works best. Some rods work best on the pos. side and others weld best on the neg. side of the welder.
For now I would not worry about 6010 or 6011 because they are not easy to start so once you get some time welding get some 6010 because it is the best penitrating rod out there and can weld through lots of crap. 6011 is ok but it is a compromise to 6010 so that it can be used on an AC machine where 6010 is DC only.
 

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Originally posted by BigBadBob:
<STRONG>I walked out of home depot with a lincoln 110v wire feed that can be converted to MIG for $350 about a week ago. I haven't dont anything special with it yet, but the little bits of scrap I've played with it did well with.</STRONG>
I have used one of those before and the Duty cycle was pissing me off. Don't get me wrong, for light stuff like Sheet metal it's good but the Duty cycle was poor on ranges hot enough to do 3/16 and 1/4 (the stuff you would make bumpers out of). Did fine on the lower setting as long as my wife stayed out of the kitchen (shared wall with garage so same breaker). I say that because everytime she went in and fired up the Microwave or the coffee maker It poped the breaker. That was on the lower settings too. They can draw and easy 20 amps of 110. I think if your read the manual it recomends a 25am dedicated cucuit. Now if you get the AC225 Stick then between the 2 you can do anything you want.
Last night I broke down and got a Mig. Northern had the HoBart Handler175 220v Mig on sale for $599 with a cart and regulator. I hit Pye Barker and picked up a 60# tank I was up to $800 with tax. With yours to convert to Mig you will have to spend about $100 on the Regulator. So you will have $450 in the machine. The tanks are the killers. DON"T EVEN BOTHER WITH THE SMALL TANK! Get the 60 or 80. You can go through a little tank in a hour if you fabbing up stuff or doing body work. Yeah the out lay up front is more for the tank but where a refill on a 30# is like $18 A refill on a 60# is $25. For the 60# normal price is $150. I talked the guy into giving me a cash discount. He sold me the filled tank at a 10lb spool for $150.
WOW. Wish I had had it when I built my cage. I had some 3/16 scrap laying around so I put some fire to it to check it out and I'm happy. Wonderful beads. Had no problem laying 4 inch long bead on 3/16 in one pass. I did my cage with the stick and while I'm ok the welds are still not as clean looking as I would have liked. They are solid but typical spatter of the stick.
I am about to restore a 70 Burb and will need to a put in a lot of Patch pannels and I'll get my money out of it with out the agrivation of poping the breaker.
Next time I run across a AC225 cheap I'll probably go and buy it even though my Mig can handle everything I can throw and it. The AC225 is more economical to run when doing heavy stuff like bumpers and skids. I have no problem laying a 1/2 inch wide bead with the stick when doing heavy stuff like Plate. That's nice to have.
 
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