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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first post on Pirate 4x4, but I have been lurking for awhile. This whole buildup started as a desire to SAS my 2000 ZR2 Blazer. After trying to figure everything out for that, including cost, it really didn't make much sense for me. I wanted to continue to use it as a DD and wheel it on some pretty tough trails. Slowly I started to realise that the possibilty of damaging my blazer, and it being my only vehicle, just didn't make sense. So, I decided to buy a 2nd vehicle for my wheeler. I had already purchased a HP44 from another Pirate member. The D44 was a drivers side drop. I really didn't have any preference of vehicle, but the drivers side drop steered me towards a jeep.
I wanted a 6cyl., Auto, A/C, Top for the winter, straight body and generally in good condition. My budget for the purchase was ~4k. It became very apparent after a short time that I was going to have to make some sacrafices. So, my new criteria was 6cyl. and get as much else as I could get. My budget and my desire to keep things simple ruled out a TJ. That left me with a CJ or YJ. I decided to try to get a YJ '91 or newer for the fuel injection.
After walking away dejected many times from potential jeeps, the frustration as setting in. I wasn't finding anything that really said buy me! Most of what I was seeing was screaming, run away as fast as you can! I finally came across an add on Craigs List that looked promising. a '91 157k mile 6cyl., 5spd., A/C, with Best Top bikini and Soft doors. It also had a factory hard top with tinted windows, wiper, defroster and full hard doors.
It was a Sahara model. The body was in good shape and had the original paint that still waxed out to a nice shine. It also had a 4" add-a-leaf and shackle lift with Pacer 15x8 soft 8's and 33x12.5 mtrs with 70-80% tread left. So 4k later I had my wheeler.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So I had my wheeler. I hadn't purchased a used vehicle in probably 20 years and all I can say is I think I got very lucky. My euphoria at finding a decent vehicle seriously clouded my judgement. The seller told me about the gauges not working, the inability to get it smogged, the reason for the carpet removal, the deep cycle boat battery that was 2x the size and the rag on the positive terminal to keep it from shorting out on the hood. What he didn't tell me was the ditributor cap had one of the bolts broke off in the hole, there was no air cleaner and there was dust in the air cleaner box. That the oil pressure was maxing out as soon as you gave it any gas. That there was little or no oil left in the transfer case and an oil leak that I'm assuming is the rear seal.
I replaced the battery with the correct one. Replaced the guages with a set I bought off Ebay. Replaced the engine temp sending unit but still no engine temp. Replaced the oil pressure sending unit. Now the only guage that doesn't work is the engine temp guage. I cleaned out the valve cover vent lines, the one that goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold was plugged. Oil pressure now reads 20 at idle and maxes out around 60. I replaced the stock air filter with an after market Airraid. I drilled out the hole in the distrubutor and replaced the wires, plugs, cap and rotor. It still has a slight miss at idle but otherwise runs like a raped ape.
The whole exhuast system was a complete mess from the manifold to tip. I replaced the stock exhuast manifold with a Stainless after market one. I bought a new Cat and muffler, then had a new exhuast installed with 2 1/2" pipe. I also had the exhuast routed in front of the oil pan instead of under the bell housing. I then took it to the local smog shop and it passed. So now it is registered current for the first time since 2004.
 

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sounds like you got a good unit. Check my thread out if you are interested on how I did a axle swap on my 93 YJ. Check your motor mounts and make sure they arn't cracked. my drivers side is about to go right now. But other things are taking priority. I broke my tie rod custom link yesterday. So im knee deep in that. And I was about to buy a amp and wire mine up for tunes:mad3:

Anyways, any questions about these rigs, pm me. Good luck with yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When I bought the HP44 the person I bought it from, (we'll call him Nate), also was selling the rear axle from his '89 YJ. So I called him back and bought it too. So what I have for axles is a HP44 from a 3/4 ton Ford, shortened to Wagoneer width. It has 4.88 gears and a Detroit locker. It has disc's from a late '80's Dodge 5x5.5 lug pattern. It has the high steer arm on the passenger side with the studs on the drivers. Included was 1.5" quarter wall DOM drag link and tie rod with chevy tre's. It is set up as crossover steering. The inner and outer short side axles are chromo. The long side inner and outer are stock wagoneer. It came with the chromo outer for the long side and a spare inner and outer stock axle for the long side.
The rear axle is a Ford 8.8 from a '96 exploder. It also has 4.88 gears and a Detroit locker. The tubes have been welded to the diff and a crush sleeve eliminator has been installed. It has 1" wheel spacers to bring it out to 61" WMS that also convert it to 5x5.5. He also included the antiwrap bar he had installed. He also threw in springs, shackles, spring plates and u-bolts. Dealing with Nate (aka Gripguru) was the best experience I have ever had buying used stuff. He was always available to talk and answer my questions. Everything was exactly as he said and prior to shipping he sent me detailed list of everything. The list was a page long and included everything about the parts short of an actual part number. If you ever have the opportunity to deal with Nate IMHO you won't regret it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks JP:) Keep following along. I should probably add at this point that this is an after the fact thread. I bought the axles in the beginning of July, the Jeep at the end of July and completed the axle swap by labor day weekend. And there are pictures but they are all after the fact so I am withholding them till I get to relevent parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So, I have a Jeep, axles and just about everything I need to put them in. Except I didn't use Nate's springs. The springs he had on his Jeep were waggy fronts and F150 rears. He had stretched his Jeep. I decided to stay stock wheelbase for now, so I bought some RE 1.5" lift SOA springs. I bought the fronts for both the front and rear because I had planned on adding full corners like PSC ones and a rear stinger tire carrier. With that addional weight I didn't want the rear end sagging. I chose Rancho RS9000Xl's for shocks because I wanted it to be a semi DD. So adjustable shocks were in order. I picked up RE quick disconnects for my front sway bar. Off of this board I bought a SYE kit, 15x8 5x5.5 black wagon wheels and 37x12.5x15 MTR's. The 8.8 I bought didn't come with the cross axle brake lines. I went to a local brake line shop and had the line for the 8.8, the front extended lines and 1 rear connecting lines made up of stainless steel braided line. On the 8.8 instead of using banjos I chose nipples coming straight out of the caliper. I bought the rear line that terminates in the T from RE also. I picked up new u-bolts and had a custom one made for the D44 where it goes around the cast section.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I wanted to add some photos but I don't have access to them right now. So, when I do I'll start to break down the actual build up. I am going to try to keep it as positive as possble. I will not be telling you about vendors who sold me stuff that didn't work and caused problems. The build up I thought was going to be pretty straight forward turned out to be more difficult than I thought. So stay tuned for the build up adventure and after thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The build up started on a blistering hot august afternoon. It was a Friday and was hoping to be finished and on the road home by Sunday. A friend Kurtis(Noughtytoy) offered up his driveway for the swap/lift. I live in apts. so the swap/lift was impossible at my place. I had previously brought up all the stuff, he lives an hour away from me. We got the Jeep on stands and started taking the front axle out. Everything went well till we had to take the bolts out of the shackles. They were completely rusted in place. Break out the sawzall and start cutting. Same for the spring to frame bolts rusted in place. We finally got the axle out and moved the 44 into place. Bolted the new spring to the frame mounts. Then bolted the axle to the springs. All we needed to do was lift the front spring up to the shackle and bolt it in place. It was fighting us pretty hard, but we finally got it and then did the other side. Put the tires on and dropped it to the ground. When we stood in front of it we could see why it had fought us so much. The shackles were at an angle. The perches on the axle were farther apart than the mounts on the Jeep.

I can't really move the perches on the axle because the drivers side is part of the cast. So I bought new shackle mounts and will offset them slightly. The reason for this is the axle being shortened to waggy width. If you look at the drive shaft it is offset slightly. The benefit is being able to buy stock axles vs having customs made.
Another thing is the chrome cover just below the drivers side turn signal. It is a plug for towing behind a motor home. All the chips in the front are probably from the motor home throwing rocks up into it.
Got the shocks installed. A note here the shocks came fully compressed and locked. A slight turn is all that's required to unlock them and allow them to go to full length. It would have been easier if I had not turned them and let them extend before install. Installed the quick disco's. All that's left were the brake lines and drag link. The pitman arm was going over to another friends house on saturday to get reemed for a chevy tre. So 3 hours later the front was on the ground and just about finished. I used 6 degree steel shims on the front axle and was able to use the stock drive shaft. I have taken it out and flexed it out and the stock driveline is fine for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
A couple of other things from the picture above. First, is the oil pan skid. It is from Nth Degree Mobility. A note on installing the skid. Follow the directions and be prepared to struggle getting the engine block bolts in. It took almost 2 hours to install the skid, partly because I didn't follow the instructions and party because it is a PITA. Secondly, in the picture you can see the rusty exhaust running down the drivers side of the oil pan under the bell housing and turning up to the Cat. My new exhaust makes a u-turn out of the manifold runs forward in front of the oli pan then back to the Cat. It will no longer get crushed between an obstacle and the bell housing.
 
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