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Discussion Starter #1
Its tuesday, whatever. :flipoff2:

Looking at trying my hand at a set of beadlocks. I have a local guy who can cut the rings, Im just not sure on what wheels to use.

Likely going with summit 15x8 with a 4"bs. Any other wheel recommendations?

Can I use a factory toyota wheel?

My front axle is the typical Toyota axle with IFS hubs, will be running a 38x12.5 tsl.

PFA.


 

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I'm all for doing your own fab work but why build your own in this case? You can damn near find 15 inch beadlocks laying in the gutter for next to nothing these days.
 

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Well ons kinda suck, but they work. Figure out an anti cloning ring.

I've built 2 sets of weld ons and imo, it's worth it to make sure they seal. The tricks I found were to do half your welds. (some people say to only weld 2" at a time, I do it in 8 total welds) once you have half your welds done, grind a v about 1"into the beginning and end of each weld. Then when you do the final welding overlap at the beginning and end of your weld.

In order to test if it leaks you can stick an air nozzle under the ring and use soap and water to find the leaks. If you have a leak make sure you grind it out, a tack on top won't do shit. I was able to have mine hold air without any rtv.

My first set was a total nightmare to mount and dismount tires. I don't know why it was any different than a normal wheel, but even a good tire machine was struggling. Any manufactured beadlock is total cake, often you can pop the inner bead on without tools. The 2nd set I tacked the ring on, then cut the lip off the wheel. Made them easy to mount.

As far as width. An 8" wheel plus a beadlock is about 9.5" wide. You could either start with a 7" wide or an 8" wide depending on what you want.

But in all honesty, I'd just keep an eye out for a used set of wheels. With more and more people going away from 15s I've seen used beadlocks for about the price of new steel wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well cool, Ill probably order up some wheels this weekend and get this process started.

Im in Vermont, the used market is pretty slim over here.

YotaAtieToo - Thanks for the tips! I think I bought a hp 3rd off you a few years ago. Still running it in the blue truck in the picture, and still use the bucket for storing extra diffs. Haha.
 

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Well cool, Ill probably order up some wheels this weekend and get this process started.

Im in Vermont, the used market is pretty slim over here.

YotaAtieToo - Thanks for the tips! I think I bought a hp 3rd off you a few years ago. Still running it in the blue truck in the picture, and still use the bucket for storing extra diffs. Haha.
I remember that. Glad it's still operational. You were supposed to return that bucket though :flipoff2:
 

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I built 2 sets using cheapo 15" trail master rims. both work good. got to do my own design and engraving being home built. seal welded both in one pass with lots of tacks and hot on a spinner. one mounts tires easily and the other you have to bar a bit but i think thats a tire type difference more than the bead locks. Figure it cost me half of a new set by the time they are shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Appreciate the tips! Rims showed up last night. 8" Procomp series 51 3.75 bs. 4wheelparts was running a sale on the procomps that made them not much more than the trail masters.

 

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You can use some cut-down fan belt material for anti-coning rings.

I was actually cleaning the shop the other night and ran across a set of steel anti-coning rings I'd let you have pretty cheap if you want 'em.... let me know.

I actually like the idea of using stock rims with welded on locks... like the look.
 

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ive done 3 or 4 sets of weld ons and fortunately never had a problem with leaks or mounting them

TMI are my favorite(1/4" version) as i prefer their style of anti coning

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-tires-wheels/1049356-weld-beadlocks-total-metal-innovations.html
No leaks without rtv?

I pulse welded my 1st set with overlap and still had leaks. What's your magic trick?

Mounting depends on the tire, my mtr/k's with tight as fuck on the wheel. My 39 Iroks you'd just barely step on the inner bead and they'd pop off.
 

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What's your magic trick?
the only thing i can think of is i start my weld past(where i havent welded yet) where i actually want to start then bring the tip back to my real starting point which then leads me to weld back over where i originally started, along with a little over lap and grind flat when done. fluxcore is magic maybe? :laughing::flipoff2: honestly i dont know probably just dumb luck
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)

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the only thing i can think of is i start my weld past(where i havent welded yet) where i actually want to start then bring the tip back to my real starting point which then leads me to weld back over where i originally started, along with a little over lap and grind flat when done. fluxcore is magic maybe? :laughing::flipoff2: honestly i dont know probably just dumb luck
Ya, I did that too, hard to believe Flux core seals better than pulse weld :laughing:



As far as shipping, no bucket needed, just bolt the rings on and slap a label on the side.
 

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i guess its just luck then :laughing: the only leaks ive had were loose bolts from grinding on rocks, tighten them up a little and leak stops
 
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