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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Looking to be able to weld on the trail? No looking to spend $1200 on a Mobiarc or preimer welder? Here is the answer. A homebrewed stand alone OnBoard welder.

You want to use an alternator that is 80amps or larger. I used a 100amp Ford Large Case Alternator. You want the alternator to be Externally regulated so that you don't have to modify the alternator to make it a weldernator.

The Alt I used was from like a mid 70's ford. The part number is GNC 7705-12. It cost about $90 new from a our local parts joint.


On my motor, I have a York compressor already mounted. I was able to use the other side of the york for the bottom mount:


This the upper mount that I made:


I ended up slotting the top hole to all for some more adjustment. I might end up remaking it to have some more adjustment.

Now, I really wanted a nice clean Control Panel/ Control box for this welder and could not find much online that I liked. I found the plastic box at Radio Shack. It was like $8 for it. The box dimensions are 7"x5"x3".





I used 2 toggles; 1 to turn on the welder, the other to turn on the outlets. The light is to signal when the welder is on. The two fuse holders on top are holding 30a fuses. The top one is for the outlets and the lower one is for the welder trigger.

I purchased the Panel Meter from China. Found it on ebay. You can get them for about $25. The guage reads from 0-200v's. You can find ones that will ready 0-150v's as well.

The last two things on the box are the + and - plug in's for the welding leads. I need to mark them better, but currently I have the right one for + and the left for -.

I purchased all the welding stuff from our local welding supply shop. It cost about $200 for the wire, rod, rod holder, ect.

Wiring Diagram:


Positive lead, 20 feet:


Negative lead, 20 feet:


3/32" rod 6011 and holder:


The welder is not strong enough to burn 1/8" rod, so you must use 3/32".

Purchased this bag from Youngs Army Navy for $9.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Did not like the idea of working under the hood without a guard on the alternator fins:


The inside wiring of the box:


System hooked up and on:






Cleaned weld:


On the trail use:




The entire cost of the project was about $375 + about 2 days of my time. I could probably build this setup for others installed for about $700. I could also build the control panels for those that need just that made.
I will put together a wiring diagram tomarrow and I will also get some pics of the hand throttle and some other things.
 

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wicked. that would come in handy.
 

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That's awesome. Might be interested.
 

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This is nothing new, been around for many years. Google "Weldernator". The outlets run tools with brushes such as grinders, drills, & such. You use the hand throttle to run the voltage gauge up to approximately 120 volts for using tools. then also use it to gauge the output for welding after some practice.
Nice clean setup, the only thing is how do you tell the polarity on the connections at the control box, looks awful easy to hook it up backwards if you were welding on your own vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did I miss something here...how is it regulated? Is the amperage adjustable? What do the outlets do?
You would adjust the voltage by idling up the motor. With more RPM's you get more voltage. You can run the idle up til you get 110v and you can use a Grinder or Drill. The output of this welder is DC voltage, so you can only run AC motors that have brushes, like grinders, drills etc.

now heres the ? can you weld on your own junk.
Sure, I would not see any reason why not. It would be the same as welding on your own rig in a shop. Just to be safe, you could hook the ground clamp between the work piece and the battery. But I think that whole thing is an urban legend.

sweeeeeet :D
do you expect to see a significantly reduced life from the alt?
I am not sure. We ran about 5 rods in a row and the alt was not any hotter then it would be in it's normal working enviroment. If you were to run a few rods and then let the alt cool down a little, I imagine it would last a long time.

very clean setup, i was wondering wouldnt you want an amp gauge instead of voltage? i know welders are rated in amperage output but the digitals i've used say voltage by the read-out.
The reason you would want a Voltage meter is for idleing the motor up to get 110v out. Then you could run power tools. You can also reference what voltage welds nicely and set it to that voltage before stricking the arc.
 

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Gotcha, I wasn't thinking about revving it up. I've used adjustable regulators in the past and I thought you might have snuck one in there somewhere.

How high do you have to rev it for 110V?
 

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Nice setup.

I was wondering where you ran your ground to?

I did the chevy alt route on mine. not to thrilled with the way it works. I may go this route and save myself from some wiring problems I have with the chevy route.
 

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I run a similar setup w/o the box, but I can burn the hell out of 1/8" rods, and itll burn through 3/8" plate if you let it.. I had my weldernator modified (its a 90 amp ford small case, since a big case wouldnt fit where the smog pump was) to put out 130 amps or so, and to do it at a lower rpm, by auto electric systems in dallas. Cost around $100 for them to do it, and $30 for the alt from oriely. I used forklift #0 cable (had it from winch install) and I got all the other materials from harbor frieght for next to nothing. Total cost is around $250, including the little cheesy jackson hood. :smokin:
 
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