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My precious....:grinpimp:
1972, 350, 4 speed granny low, Dana 44, 12 bolt, 4 inch Superlift.
1972, 350, 4 speed granny low, Dana 44, 12 bolt, 4 inch Superlift.
DJZ BLAZER
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Need to fix the frame at the steering box..DIY??
What about gas? Will today's gas screw it up??
Should I run additive? What type?
Motor oil, non detergent??
Probably gonna throw a Lock right in the back
How strong is the 44? Running 33's and plan on mostly desert exploring with it.
Want to keep it as reliable as possible. No fuel injection or ECU.
Want to be able to fix it out in the middle of the desert. I'll carry spare everything... Carb, coil, distributor, plug, wires, and so on...
What about gas? Will today's gas screw it up??
Should I run additive? What type?
Motor oil, non detergent??
Probably gonna throw a Lock right in the back
How strong is the 44? Running 33's and plan on mostly desert exploring with it.
Want to keep it as reliable as possible. No fuel injection or ECU.
Want to be able to fix it out in the middle of the desert. I'll carry spare everything... Carb, coil, distributor, plug, wires, and so on...
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And how the hell does the rear half of the top bolt down???
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It's fine, run it as is, lockrite is fine. It doesn't take anything special for the motor. Oil and fuel of your choice, cleaner additive every so often .
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That's called a double wall top. If you pull the side panels the bolts pint up through the rail into the top.
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That makes sense, thanks.
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Was that on Craigslist in Nor-Cal? I swear there was one identical to that recently. Nice rig.
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Very nice bud!
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I haven't even started it yet...:lmao:
I don't think so. I got it in Big Bear.
I'm not sure when Chevy went to hardened exhaust seats, but 72 might have them. If the engine has been replaced you are probably ok as far as running unleaded gas. I would just run it until you start to notice the power going away and swap the heads out assuming the short block is ok. Look inside the valve covers, if it has lots of sludge you might run non-detergent oil. If it's relatively clean just run detergent diesel engine oil, it has lots more zinc than gasser oil even though it's less than it used to have.
Travis..
Travis..
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Tight fit...
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I doubt you need to do anything to the frame for the steering box. They have a crossmember that the steering box bolts to from the factory. Should be plenty strong for a recreational wheeler.
Also, if you have to do a water pump, those have a short water pump, no matter what the parts guys say, at least if it's the original brackets.
FYI, that is a relatively rare truck. CST was the top model blazer(Cheyenne was for pickups only) Also has factory air and the rear side panels. If its the original glove box, should have all the options on the sticker inside. I have basically the same rig, only mine is a rusty pos. Still on the fence on restoring it, vs making it into a wheeler.
Edit: did some asshole put speakers in the rear panels? Those things are like hens teeth.
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At least they didn't butcher the dash so they could put in a Kraco CD player. :laughing:
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And... so it begins.
My driver side axle, joint and I think stub shaft are fried in the Dana 44...
Is there a Dana 60 that just pops right in there???
Leaf perches that are the correct width??
If not, what's closest??
And while we're at it, how bout a 14 bolt for the rear....:evil:
My driver side axle, joint and I think stub shaft are fried in the Dana 44...
Is there a Dana 60 that just pops right in there???
Leaf perches that are the correct width??
If not, what's closest??
And while we're at it, how bout a 14 bolt for the rear....:evil:
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