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So for the guys who have broke dodge auto transmissions (48RE), what were you doing?

IE: Boosted launches, towing alot, driving like a tard...:p

Does the trans usually slip first for a while and give you bad smells or does it go bam and just blow up on the spot?

-Alex
 

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Broke while commuting. Pretty stock truck. Drive it like a 40 year old dude. Tow 14K two-three times per year and 6-7K at least once a month up and down the hills around here.

Second gear started slipping. If you do a band adjustment with your fluid filter change you should get more than 150K out of it according to my trans builder.
 

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I see them get smoked all the time, i think the most is because people don't service the fawking thing. If they do the shops are not adjusting the intermediate band.
 

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Driving like a tard, enjoying the the 600 lb fts, hearing the turbo spool yea.... It's eventuly just started slipping in 2nd but it would get me around everywhere just dandy. Some said all I needed was a gov. solinoid but I took it to a trans shop wanting to beef it up with a rebuild. I regret that desicion because that trans shop sucked and it sure dosnt feel like I have a billet converter or a shift kit.

Flush your oil, change the filter, and keep it cool , I'm confident it will go 100k.

Also if some guy named rawkon chimes in don't listen too much he has to say about Chryslers
 

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The line pressure typically is off

The stock clutch pack cannot take the power

The stock valve body isnt up to the task

The stock torque converter will slip all the time

The stock input shaft will and can break
 

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For a 100% swap in and nearly bullet proof, contact Garmon Diesel or Goerend Brothers Transmission.........both will build you a solid 48RE
 

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Driving it like an old man, No towing, Just commuting. less than 100K miles. They are prone to failure for no reason. Dodges makes the worst autos on the market hands down.
 

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So for the guys who have broke dodge auto transmissions (48RE), what were you doing?

IE: Boosted launches, towing alot, driving like a tard...:p

Does the trans usually slip first for a while and give you bad smells or does it go bam and just blow up on the spot?

-Alex
I've seen a lot of 47/48RE's fail from all of the above, the number one killer seems to be lack of maintenance. If you tow a lot change the fluid, filter, and adjust the bands every 20-30k miles.

Most of the 48's that come in for repair are slipping, the other 10% are for torque converter failure, broken input shafts, broken intermediate band anchor, and I've even see a couple of intermediate bands fail at the spot welds.
 

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'03 w/ TST and 35's.

1st trans just started acting funny and slipping a bit. never ran the TST over 5/5, but wasn't easy on it.

2nd trans was a factory rebuild w/ an ATS billet converter and their VB. Worked fine for along time, then I passed someone at full throtle, and it did something weird and started slowing even through I was on the throttle. Ended up with a snapped input. I ran the tst at 7/7 w/ the upgraded trans.

I've had a goerend w/ billet input it now for over 100k mi., same driving habits and power levels.
 

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06 Megacab 5.9 48RE...............Mine just started acting funny and slipped second gear. Took it into the shop and they ran the diagnostics and second gear is smoked. Daily driver that towed less than 5000# two to three times a month and has been driven responsibly. I regurly serviced the tranny and kept good fluid in it. I guess I am the exception to the norm, my truck has 153,000 and this is the first transmission problem and hopefully the last. Have a local shop rebuilding/building it for a very resonable price and a great warranty.
 

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06 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 crew cab Banks intake is the only mod.

My first tranny lasted till 60K. It started slipping then one day just let go. The dealer fixed under warrenty, I'm hoping it lasts another 60K but i doubt it. I don't baby it but i don't abuse it either. I tow 6K once a month and put a full size camper every 3 months and tow. I am really thinking an aftermarket trans is the way to go but at $4500 its a bit pricey!
 

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I am really thinking an aftermarket trans is the way to go but at $4500 its a bit pricey!
Depending on what your power and your needs are, a good single billet torque converter and a good valve body will work

A triple disk billet torque converter will hold more power, but then it is more money

A billet input shaft is around $500-$750, depending on which brand you get.....and then another $500-$750 for the billet intermediate and then drop another $500-$750 for a billet output shaft

I think I spent around $6000 for my truck's transmission
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here's the thing, mine isn't acting up at all. It was probably serviced 25000 miles ago now, but I did new fluid and a deep pan over the summer.

I drive like an old man, and I take it even easier when I am towing. The truck has 220,000 miles on it.

I am just trying to figure how to keep it running for the longest time.

-Alex
 

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From what I can remember, here is what I did:

Mag-Hytech Double Deep Trans Pan
BD FleX-Plate
Billet Output Shaft
Billet Input Shaft
Goerend Valve Body
Goerend Triple Disk Torque Converter 900/400
Diesel Site External Transmission Filter Kit
Sonnax Billet 4 Ring Accumulator
HD Band Anchor: "The Power Wedge"
Billet Rear Band Servo w/ Pin
Sonnax Dodge 16% Oversize Intermediate Super Servo, Servo Cover and Pin
Sonnax Front Servo Piston Cover
Billet 4.2 Apply Lever
Billet HD Strut

I am a huge fan of Dieselsite's 48RE external trans filter kit, for $200 it does a great job and is a nice kit:
http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsitetransmissionfiltersystemdodge2003-200759l.aspx
 

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I drive it to work daily and tow about 6-7k once a month. Lost 2nd gear at about 68k. It broke a snap ring in the overdrive unit at 85k. Serviced 4 times and I replaced the governor pressure sensor and solenoid at 68k when I lot 2nd gear.
 

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Here's the thing, mine isn't acting up at all...I am just trying to figure how to keep it running for the longest time.

-Alex
*read up about the function of your throttle valve and how to keep the throttle valve cable in adjustment. this is critical for appropriate line pressure.

*keep the TPS voltage dialed in so that it upshifts where it should. research the potentiometer mod

*dont lug it when loaded down, RPMs are the transmissions friend. sure, the motor can glog.glog.glog that load up the hill at 1400rpm but the line pressure in the trans is proportional to RPM. drop it down a gear, let it rev and take your time. be content to go the speed the truck wants, not impatient about going the speed you want.

*lockup switch is a saviour when used correctly.

worst possible scenario for an automatic is dead start up a hill with a loaded trailer. avoid it whenever you can, plan your stops and starts.
ive got a 12v with 47re and 3.54 gears. for loaded down starts like that i take off in manual first gear with the OD disabled. wind the hell out of first gear till it stops accelerating from pump defueling -around 2200 rpm for me- hopefully i make 20-25 mph in 1st. i roll off for an instant, manually shift to second and wait for the shift, then roll back in to keep the RPMs up there so line pressure stays high. i try not to let RPM drop down below 1600 on that upshift. run 2nd up to defuel, lift, clunk to 3rd, roll back in. when the motor is humming good and we've hit 35-40mph i ease back the throttle and press my momentary lockup switch then roll the throttle back in, paying attention for any slippage. when done right, the truck will lunge right up to full boost and sail to 55mph like a nitrous button. let go of the lockup, enable OD, wait for the 4th gear shift, roll in till it gets to RPM and relock the convertor one more time.. i'll crest most hills doing 60-65 with dead start in OD and the tranny is at 150*F. governor springs will really help the 12valves by allowing you to rev the shift even further for increased line pressure.

you kinda have to drive them like a manual IMO. this truck had 2 stock jasper replacements before me pulling toyotas. ive been hauling 8-9k lb trucks and havent seen the trans get over 160.

if you do overheat, the stock valvebody will not oil the convertor in park, it has to be in neutral or gear to circulate fluid. trans gauge is mandatory. sender in the pan or pressure ports is worthless. it has to be in the output line to the cooler for accurate readings of whats coming out of the convertor. a cooler with a thermostatic fan is a saviour for traffic jams.
 
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