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You can use the TTB50 parts (big 60 style wheel hubs) from ~80-96?

The 60 knuckles (which if you get a complete axle you don't need the above TTB50 parts) can come from ~91.5-97. Some where in this range they changed the knuckle and brake design. The earlier ones have the metal and plastic slide wedges while the newer ones use bolt on caliper brackets and slide pins/bolts. I know from personal experience at least the 96-97 are the newer style. I don't know when they transitioned (guessing 94 or 95???).

We have another 1997 axle chilling in the yard... She's been debating doing the swap on another one of our trucks or just putting king pins on...
 

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im looking in to doing this on my 95 and im not too savy on what part u guys are actually using here, they are everything from the knucles out on a 94-97 f-350 truck? or is it a f 250?
 

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wait i found my answer but how do you use the f 350 parts on a 2500 or did ford make a single rear f 350 in those years? or do you use the f 350 knuckles with the 250 spindles, hubs and rotors? im still kinda hazy on what parts are used
 

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Yes there were F350 SRW. 92-97 Dana 60 balljoint knuckles are what you need. You will also need Ford 60 stub shafts, Ford 60 or TTB50 spindles, and Ford 60 or TTB50 wheel hubs/rotors. What you CANNOT use from the TTB50 from what I am told is the knuckle. Apparently the TTB50 knuckles have a different ball joint angle/configuration (I have not personally verified).
 

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TTB 50 STUBS will NOT work! They use a 1350 driveline style axle joint, not the D60 1480 joint.
The balljoint spacing, angle, and the lower balljoint(smaller) are different.
All that will fit a 60 from a 50 is the hub, bearings, rotor and lockout. The D50 spindle has a shorter index on the knuckle side than a 60 spindle, on a balljoint axle, it will engage the knuckle, so you could use it. On a kingpin, it will not and is unsafe to use, I know we aren't talking kingpin here but, I have seen it stated one too many times that a 50 spindle will fit a 60.

F250's did not get factory installed 60's, but there are plenty of them out there that have been swapped, as it is a direct bolt in.

As for the brakes, the 92-94 trucks have the old style rubber wedge caliper retainer and a 12.5" rotor, 95-97 use the bolt on calipers which are a little larger and a 13" rotor, both will clear a 16" wheel with no issues, as thats what came stock.
 

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As for the brakes, the 92-94 trucks have the old style rubber wedge caliper retainer and a 12.5" rotor, 95-97 use the bolt on calipers which are a little larger and a 13" rotor, both will clear a 16" wheel with no issues, as thats what came stock.
What changed on the mounting of the caliper? to fit the bigger rotor. Was it just the change of the caliper, and not the knuckle itself?
 

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Both changed.
This is the 95+ axle:
 

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i think i may just keep the dodge knuckles and drill 4 new holes in the ford spindles, i talked to a guy who did his this way, he used the d50 spindles and d60 hubs (i believe) he said the raised part on the d50 spindle fit perfetly into to hole on the dodge knuckle
 

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Yep they do fit right in the knuckle. Doing this on 79FordGirl's Dad's 2002 Dodge Ram 2500.

We have another couple axle configurations we are going to build as well from spare parts and housings we have kicking around.

Next axle is a 1997 housings we borrowed the outers off of. Putting king pin knuckles on it, but running a 1979 short side Ford shaft on the short side. Lengthening the overall width so the coils and buckets will clear. Buckets are coming off a 2002 D60 front (non disconnect).
 

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Yep they do fit right in the knuckle. Doing this on 79FordGirl's Dad's 2002 Dodge Ram 2500.

We have another couple axle configurations we are going to build as well from spare parts and housings we have kicking around.

Next axle is a 1997 housings we borrowed the outers off of. Putting king pin knuckles on it, but running a 1979 short side Ford shaft on the short side. Lengthening the overall width so the coils and buckets will clear. Buckets are coming off a 2002 D60 front (non disconnect).
OK on redrilling the ford spindles to fit the dodge unit bearing knuckle, I see there being a problem with the stub axle. When I dry fit them with the stub axle seated into the spindle the centerline of the axle U joint is to far outboard from the centerline of the balljoints. I calculated I would need to space the stub axle back from the spindle around .400" which throws off all of the splines at the hub end? What are you guys or EMS doing to handle this? It also appears that the TTB 50 stubs are shorter than the ford 60 shafts. I am trying to put dana TTB50 parts with the dodge knuckles onto the donor ford BJ housing I used to swap onto my Dodge to make use of the leftovers.

Thanks
Duane
 

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The Chevy/Dodge stub shaft is 0.600" longer than the Ford stub shaft...
 

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The Chevy/Dodge stub shaft is 0.600" longer than the Ford stub shaft...

I understand that, however I think the TTB stub is around 10.90 so the dodge/gm stub is too long. I could use the ford 11.4 and put a spacer on it where it goes into the spindle bearing but I have yet to have heard of anyone doing this so is that the trick or not? The other thing is weather the TTB spindle has a shorter stickout where it engages the knuckle than a conventional ford D60, something must be different to account for the difference in length? If so then running the standard D60 spindles and stubs may be the answer which makes the swap not so thrifty $$. Just wondering what everyone is doing?
 

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TTB stubs wouldn't work even if the length was right, they DO NOT use the same u-joint. They use a 1350 series driveline joint, external clips and all.
The 50 Spindle other than the stickout on the knuckle side of the flange is the same as the Ford 60. I haven't tried it, but there is no reason it wouldn't swap onto a Ford BJ 60 with no issues, the location of the spindle bearing and axle seal is in the same place relative to the flange it would be on a 60 spindle.
I know there is another thread here on doing just the spindle swap, and I believe he used the Chevy/Dodge stubs with a spacer.
Edit:
See here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716129
 

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TTB stubs wouldn't work even if the length was right, they DO NOT use the same u-joint. They use a 1350 series driveline joint, external clips and all.
The 50 Spindle other than the stickout on the knuckle side of the flange is the same as the Ford 60. I haven't tried it, but there is no reason it wouldn't swap onto a Ford BJ 60 with no issues, the location of the spindle bearing and axle seal is in the same place relative to the flange it would be on a 60 spindle.
I know there is another thread here on doing just the spindle swap, and I believe he used the Chevy/Dodge stubs with a spacer.
Edit:
See here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716129
I don't think the 50 spindle will work, you have to consider the alignment between the axle u joint and the ball joint center-lines. I swapped Ford BJ60 outers onto a dodge ram unit bearing 60 and am now left with some goods parts if I can mesh them together. I have the 97 HPBJ60 housing and inner 35 spline axles and the leftover dodge unit bearing knuckles along with a TTB50 out back. My thought was to put the dodge knuckles onto the ford BJ60 then re drill ford spindles and bolt on the TTB stuff and have a complete axle with the leftovers. The problem is that the back side of the spindle sets the center line of the stub axle in relationship to the center line of the Ball Joints. So the stickout on the knuckle side of the spindle is critical in alignment and that is where the problem lies. Some say the TTB spindle and stub work (I don't see how), some say the ford kingpin 60 spindle and stub(this is looking the best as the stickout of the spindle is more in line of what it needs to be) some say ford 92-97 BJ spindle and stub. Someone said they used the chevy stub with the ford spindle which should then need a spaser which I don't want to do.
 

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The part of the spindle on the 60 that is longer doesn't touch anything, the back side of the spindle is in the same position relative to the bolt flange on the spindle on both axles, so, there shoult be no difference there as far as axle legnth is concerned.
Either way, there is no way a person could use a TTB50 stub with a 60.
 

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The part of the spindle on the 60 that is longer doesn't touch anything, the back side of the spindle is in the same position relative to the bolt flange on the spindle on both axles, so, there shoult be no difference there as far as axle legnth is concerned.
Either way, there is no way a person could use a TTB50 stub with a 60.
There must be something different because the length of a TTB50 stub should be 10.9 as opposed to the D60 11.4 so where is that 1/2" is what I want to know. So I just found some used spindles and stubs from a 79 D60 for comparison.
 

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have you guys noticed any bump steer due to the steering being mounted lower?

dodge left, ford right



think i am going to flip them and run them on the top, closer to matching the trac bar then with mounted on the bottom of the fords.


using these
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Tapered-GM-TRE-insert_p_1706.html

only other thing i could think of is a drop pitman. Thought about putting the draglink on the bottom of the pitman, but im pretty sure it would it would hit the tracbar. the cotter pin in the stock setup was coming in contact with the tracbar i noticed while under there.
 

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I don't think the 50 spindle will work, you have to consider the alignment between the axle u joint and the ball joint center-lines.
My buddy runs the D50 spindle. IIRC, he used both the old style and new style dust seals stacked to fill the space. Its a '94 Dodge CTD with drilled Ford spindles. He's been running this for about 3 years in a daily-driver.
 

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I was just about to start this conversion and I noticed folks have said it puts the wheels about 3/4" further out. Ive got rims with the wrong backspacing already.. can only fit 33's under the truck at the moment even with 3" lift. If I went with the ford D60 mod it would make this worse.
I may even look into spacers for the rear wheels when I do this. I cant imagine its really critical.. maybe it does something to the handling with the front wheelbase being longer than the rear. Better safe than sorry.
 

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have you guys noticed any bump steer due to the steering being mounted lower?

dodge left, ford right



think i am going to flip them and run them on the top, closer to matching the trac bar then with mounted on the bottom of the fords.


using these
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Tapered-GM-TRE-insert_p_1706.html

only other thing i could think of is a drop pitman. Thought about putting the draglink on the bottom of the pitman, but im pretty sure it would it would hit the tracbar. the cotter pin in the stock setup was coming in contact with the tracbar i noticed while under there.
Yes I have noticed the bump steer. If you put the TRE on top of the knuckles the factory bend to clear the pumpkin will be wrong, you could then flip it endo but now the hole for the drag link would be on the wrong end. Keep me posted as to how you approach this. I am thinking of all new custom bent TRE to be able to go over the top of the knuckle??
 
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