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Congrats on the P.E. Cert!

On the battery box build make sure it's well ventilated. I had a battery box explode on me when I was in the Navy.. It was part of a 25MM machine gun that was electrically operated, and when the gun was switched on something sparked and the battery exploded. The box went from square, to ballooned, and the lid blew off over my head, hit the bulkhead leaving a large dent, bounced off the wall and cut a few cables attached to the mast, and frisbee'd out to sea.

As far as a relay, fuse, ckt brkr etc on the power wire goes, if it's well protected it should be just fine. A well protected wire shouldn't have any issues unless damaged in an accident. Maybe install a manual shut off switch like what is used on race cars for the "In case of accident" scenarios.
 

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Sorry - I re-read my post and realise I didn't really give you all the feedback I could have. Locally, these compressors ship with 175psi pressure switches, which is (I think) the pressure ARB run the new lockers at. The issues with the twin piston compressors when run into big tanks is really about the time spent up near maximum PSI. A good fix is to run them at lower pressure if you don't need 175psi. I'm sure at 90 psi it'll run forever. Be aware the discharge temperature is also pretty high and they require a braided hose on the discharge. They'll destroy rubber. I don't know how much pressure you need for the rear air springs but I'd use the maximum you need for that as your pressure switch for the system so long as it's above the 90 psi the transfer shift needs.

Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #883
Good deal on the heads up on the battery situation and the info on the ARB compressor performance. My intention was to locate a secondary pressure switch in a tank that would act as a "top out switch". All of the paperwork that came with this unit has it cutting out at 150 psi with 175 psi being the emergency runaway valve. Since I am planning on putting my air hose connection inside the battery box, the box will be open whenever I am filling up tires. Unless I have a substantial leak, the air-shift system and rear suspension should need only a minor amount of volume. This being the case, the batteries will have a chance to breath while they are under the 50A load of the compressor and the compressor will be able to breathe too. I mainly want to have this so that I can plug and repair a tire on the camper on the side of the road, inflate rafts, etc etc.

In regards to the battery mounts, I opted to make a riser plate so that if a battery does have a problem it eats a consumable part and not an original part on the truck as the factory supports are rather stout. There is a gap between the truck body and frame that air can get in, and the top of this box at the body is still open and will be left open for air to escape. I'm not expecting normal operating heat to be any worse than what a modern vehicle battery sees when located under the hood.

I am hoping to fabricate the hold down clamp today. I need some 1/2" stainless rod to thread the ends of and I am making them into T-bolts that slot into the bottom frame and then when the battery is in place, they can't really escape.





 

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Discussion Starter #884
Well, interesting change...

Photobucket wants $400 a year for me to simply share photos via hot-linking on multiple forums; I'm not falling into their ransom trap... not for the sake of giving away information on the internet. I'll direct upload photos to this forum and one other from this point forward, but everything else, unfortunately, will just fall by the wayside. I have a feeling that this is going to kill quite a number of forums and blogs and supposedly PB is pointing their fingers at facebook. I've already been paying for Photobucket service for a few years now so that allows me the option to at least backup my photos. If I find the time and I am able I may go back through and direct load some old posts that are important but I don't see me having the time for that in the near future.

Thanks for following as long as you dedicated folks have, and sorry for the mess that is about to happen.
 

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Yeah I'm in the process of trying to pull all my photobucket stuff. It is a shame. I've got random builds and tech threads scattered all over linked to that PB account and now they're all fucked. Oh well. Thanks for finding a way to keep us updated on this thing :smokin:
 

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Well, interesting change...

Photobucket wants $400 a year for me to simply share photos via hot-linking on multiple forums; I'm not falling into their ransom trap... not for the sake of giving away information on the internet. I'll direct upload photos to this forum and one other from this point forward, but everything else, unfortunately, will just fall by the wayside. I have a feeling that this is going to kill quite a number of forums and blogs and supposedly PB is pointing their fingers at facebook. I've already been paying for Photobucket service for a few years now so that allows me the option to at least backup my photos. If I find the time and I am able I may go back through and direct load some old posts that are important but I don't see me having the time for that in the near future.

Thanks for following as long as you dedicated folks have, and sorry for the mess that is about to happen.
I'm also not paying $400 annual extortion fees to Photosuckit. If they had picked a less "F.U." price, I might have caved in.
I used uploading onsite to fix a tech-ish thread in the "JK subforum" (JKO).
Time-consuming PITA to maintain my thread and my cheapasserry. :mad3:

To repair a tech thread of mine on a motorcycle forum, I used Postimage https://postimages.org/.
Free (for now . . . ) and way easier to use than the ad-ridden clusterfook that Photobucket was for freeloaders like myself.
You might consider uploading your photos there and re-linking in the thread if time allows (would be quicker, having recently just done both).

I'm sorry to see great threads like yours gutted by Photobucket's bonehead shakedown scheme.
Sincere thanks for all the time you've taken to share details of this thoughtful, meticulous, and flat-out badass build. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #887
Yeah I'm in the process of trying to pull all my photobucket stuff. It is a shame. I've got random builds and tech threads scattered all over linked to that PB account and now they're all fucked. Oh well. Thanks for finding a way to keep us updated on this thing :smokin:
I'm also not paying $400 annual extortion fees to Photosuckit. If they had picked a less "F.U." price, I might have caved in.
I used uploading onsite to fix a tech-ish thread in the "JK subforum" (JKO).
Time-consuming PITA to maintain my thread and my cheapasserry. :mad3:

I'm sorry to see great threads like yours gutted by Photobucket's bonehead shakedown scheme.
Sincere thanks for all the time you've taken to share details of this thoughtful, meticulous, and flat-out badass build. :beer:
Yea, I have been dragging my feet on it... However, the one silver lining I've seen in this change is that people will have to become members here to see how this pans out on this forum. I have also abandoned my build threads on other forums aside from one specific power wagon page because I am friends with the guys over there (very inviting place full of smart folks) and thats about it! It'll keep the legitimate interested members involved and up to speed, and keep out the google search lurking idea imitators. Imitation is the truest form of flattery or something so I hear. I also have had people mention things I post here... that I KNOW are not members here, which is kinda weird.

Anyways, back to the task at hand.

So it looks like I may be selling my stock battery box door. Because my truck was rear-ended, the diver's side body is still not quite right despite as much pushing and pulling as I did back years ago when I got this thing. Something is out of square still and I think my truck is still about an 1" too short in the body lines but its near the mid section as the rear body mount is half a hole off as well. This being the case, it is pushing the passenger rear fender into where the box closes and in order to get everything to line up, my hinges have to be mounted out of plane and higher than originally built. You can see this in the photos where the paint is scratched off of the fender and how the hinge rises across the battery tray when the box opening is square with the body. I could slot open the holes for the frame mount brackets but that's not really ideal either and actually due to the design and proximity of the top hole to the top leg, it would move the hole outside of the bracket to get it right. I also wanted to make my battery box lockable because of the air compressor in it so instead of modifying this stock one, I figure I can build something almost identical but slightly different to fit my needs. This one is stout, and built out of 12 gauge! I was planning on building mine from 16 ga and just adding some different internal trim stiffeners. that would be more efficient than the single one that Proctor-Keefe built; granted it did hold up for 3/4 of a century as this truck turns 75 in just a few months.

Also, that is a "close" replacement hinge. It is stainless because the ones that are steel on my work trucks always rust after the first few openings. We had a beautiful new 2016 Ram 5500 4 door, 4 wheel drive bucket truck at my last job and the second week of having it, there were rust streaks down the side body from where the mild steel hinges were rusting already.

I'm going to attach pictures instead of hot-linking so that my Photobucket account can eventually be closed and this stuff won't be lost.
 

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Addicted to Gear Oil
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Pay for a red star and host your pics on Pirate4x4. That way they don't dissappear from external hosted servers. It's a real shame when a great thread is gutted by dead photo links.
 

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Discussion Starter #889
Pay for a red star and host your pics on Pirate4x4. That way they don't dissappear from external hosted servers. It's a real shame when a great thread is gutted by dead photo links.
Yea, I've been a red star member for about 6 years now. Thats what I'm doing from this point forward.
 

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S
Also, the other day I had a "Cummings guru tell me that I needed to put a high amperage breaker between the battery and hot starter lead otherwise the truck will catch on fire if that cable shorts. I mean, yea, there is that risk but I've not recalled ever seeing anything like that on an engine setup like this but rather just seen the primary cable super protected (which is my plan). He also said "Cummings" and not Cummins so I immediately zoned out on most of what he was saying.
Probably too late now but my research to main cable fusing lead me too the theory of sizing the main cable to carry the amperage of the battery(s). In other words the reason no OEM battery main cables are fused is the conductor is sized large enough to not melt in a short.
 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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How big is the cable? I work in the circuit protection industry and that doesn't seem right to me, unless theres a fusible link somewhere.
 

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And it will most probably look like a factory OEM part but it will be made out of a repurposed cake pan or sauce pan lid. :)
Phew! I was worried for a nanosecond. It seemed a little unprotected when I first looked at it. :laughing:
He's got to go back to Bed, Bath, & Beyond for more supplies.
:flipoff2:


Alxj64 :grinpimp: glad to see you are still getting shit done. Looks amazing.
 

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How big is the cable? I work in the circuit protection industry and that doesn't seem right to me, unless theres a fusible link somewhere.
2/0 or bigger I'd imagine.

I'll spare us all the calculations cause math isn't my strong suit but if you work it out the appropriate sized cable should be able to control the batteries angry pixies.


There are very few if any that I have ever ran accross in heavy equipment or automobiles that have fused main power cables. CAT equipment for sure does not fuse the main battery leads of the sometimes huge battery banks.

That doesn't make it a bad idea at all but it does add some complexity (failure point) in the system.
 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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I wouldn't chance it... but I've probably seen more horrible failures just from customer issues (not usually the fault of the fuse) than your average person.
 

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Fusible link =/= fuse in the classical sense.

A lot of asian vehicles use something like this on their battery hot cables:


And nearly every new vehicle uses something like this that bolts directly to the battery positive, each 'fuse' going to a high amperage draw component - starter included:


Though I think you're right about most older vehicles. Maybe I'm just paranoid working in the fuse industry and seeing all sorts of crazy stuff happen to vehicles if there's no fuse or when a fuse doesn't properly protect the circuit. It's cheap insurance in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #900
INSURANCE!!!

So it appears that getting any form of "usable" insurance on this truck is nearly impossible. Everything I have come across has a "no towing or hauling of ANYTHING" rule. This means that pulling the Airstream or even a small boat trailer is against the rules. The Hagerty agent asked what I was going to be using the truck for and I evidently made the mistake / was honest enough to say "Load up some surfboards and go surfing for the weekend at the beach" and his response was an immediate "Umm, wrong answer, we can't cover you; NO type of hauling is allowed, much less leaving the truck outside overnight away from an enclosed and locked garage; even parking garages are disallowed. So, I literally wouldn't be allowed to carry surfboards on or in this thing. I called around and this is a common theme. Seems that these places all have absolutely unrealistic loop-holes to get out of paying a dime in the event of an accident. Grundy has a "no cell phones turned ON in the vehicle" clause even. Phones must be powered down when in the vehicle, passengers included.

So I am now working with my State Farm agent to see about getting something custom written to cover this thing. I don't mind paying essentially a modern car payment's value to insure the thing so long as I can actually use it and not be stressed the entire time. Whats the point of all of this if I can't even get insurance on it?

Does anyone out there know of a classic vehicle insurance company that might cover a truck and trailer combo? Turns out all your motorcycle, boat, RV insurance that Progressive offers, actually goes through Hagerty; seems they have the major corner in the market and are therefore tightening up their clauses. I was able to get this truck because of insurance problems that the previous owner went through; now I feel his pain.
 
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