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Addicted to Gear Oil
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Those are some of the beefiest spring perches I've ever seen. Nothing wrong with overkill :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #1,023
There is no kill quite like overkill!
Those are some of the beefiest spring perches I've ever seen. Nothing wrong with overkill :grinpimp:
Yep, stout and solid; also quite a satisfying little project that turned out perfectly as well!

The shackles needed new bushings. One of them was so worn that I had to drill the hole a little bit offset just because the groove it had worn was something terrible. I had noticed the wear ahead of time and ordered bushings larger than the factory stuff just to repair this issue. Looks a little funky but the 3/32" difference in shackle length shouldn't really pose a huge issue, and there is plenty of meat left in the hardware for the loads it will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,024
Also, the WC factory lower saddles were for a tube diameter that was a 1/8" radius larger... easy fix. I have the section of tube left over from when I cut down my front housing. Set it up on the press with a spacer and went to town on making my shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,025 (Edited)
While I am waiting on parts, waiting on some help moving some heavy things, etc.

I started to tinker with the engine again some last night and want to run some diagnostic thoughts past the Common rail savvy crowd.

The engine starts pretty easily once the lift pump primes the CP3, really doesn't take much cranking at all really. However, I have a massive fuel leak out of the back of the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve. Like it sprays a stream / mist onto the firewall with the hose disconnected. I ordered a new FRPV from Cummins for this engine based on quickserve PNs and its not even close to the correct thing even though the PN is correct. Instead, mine looks just like the ones found for the 24V Dodge trucks. So, I ordered one of those just to be safe.

The guy I bough the engine from told me that he removed the FRPV and that once that is done, they have to be replaced...? The diesel tuner guys on my forums just claim that the springs will wear out and cause them to leak, and/ or if the FCA Mprop is bad, it will allow full rail pressure to the injectors at idle and "sometimes" cause a leak out of the back of the FRPV. I also read that the FCA won't kick in until after 30 seconds of key on duration to allow for full rail pressure during starting and then the ECM takes over the FCA and uses the rail pressure sensor to map and control the rail pressure, I am not certain if that is true either. I don't have access to the fancy rail pressure gauge that Cummins suggests in their troubleshooting guide.

So, I am starting to think that "maybe" the FCA is stuck, because I unplug it and quickly start the engine and the symptoms don't change. However, if the FRPV is bad thats my lack of pressure allowing for rough idle and the FCA on or off won't change that. I'm thinking that I might be best off just to replace all 3 items that way I know I am in the clear down the road and keep the old ones as spares but whoa is that all expensive. Luckily it is all the same parts as the 24V Dodge trucks, so fuel system parts are actually pretty easily sourced but man the $ at this point in the game is burning me up.

Any past experience or insite with a failed FCA, FRPV, or FRPS?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,026
Well, that settles that in regards the FRPV being bad once it is removed.

Straight from the service manual for the ESN, and in this picture, the FRPV looks like the one I have. Not sure what the heck Cummins sent me or why. I've noticed other weird things about this engine to don't jive with the ESN. Such as the paint color isn't even what it says it should be in quickserve.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,027
FRPV is on back order for 2 weeks. Lovely.

Got the rear axle and some other misc parts dropped off for powder today. Don't worry, all the holes get plugged and the attached hardware is sacrificial.

Also, the skid plate for the fuel tank got some detailing done to it. Guy in VB named Igor is an awesome artist and free hand pinstriper. He does lettering and other stuff to. I'll have him throw some more details at this truck later down the road. Planning on having the hood numbers on the truck but in a shade of paint just ghostly lighter than the truck will be painted so that they are there but not there. It'll look better than what you are imagining right now, :p
 

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Discussion Starter #1,028
Ugh...

Today was mostly spent re-doing old work that didn't fit or needed changing for various other small reasons. I had to remake the fan shroud because it was just a hair too deep after I moved the radiator back a little bit too much in order to fit the trans/PS cooler stack and forgot I had done that until I was reminded today.

The fuel filler neck needed to be changed too because I ended up closer to the floor than I intended when I built the tank but then built the skid and took away clearance, by just a hair... so that had to be changed.

Getting frustrated and starting to feel burnt out from this current hard push to get it rolling for an event in early May.
 

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I ran into the same thing last summer trying to find reasonably priced parts and then finding out that what I had planned originally wouldn't work. Seems that it comes in bunches sometimes things go easier and sometimes its harder. Just the nature of the beast with an old "custom" vehicle. I try and stay positive and think of things as a learning experience. Then if something gets me really pissed I just move onto something else to feel like I'm making "progress." As always your touches on the skid plate are top notch.
 

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Not a Wenzelite
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Incredible rig.

You have an insane attention to detail. I'd probably take a hammer to the filler neck to shoehorn it in. Don't sweat getting it exactly right. It's what you do. It will be worth it in hindsight. You'll get it exactly right--just don't sweat it!!

Then if something gets me really pissed I just move onto something else to feel like I'm making "progress." As always your touches on the skid plate are top notch.
^^^
 

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When I was station at North Island we did a lot of car shows and saw some amazing ghost paint. If done correctly people will see it as they walk buy but when they look it will be gone making them wonder if it was really there.

Skip
 

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Discussion Starter #1,035 (Edited)
Out of curiosity, who do you use for your powder coating here?
Literally a friend of a friend who does it as side work. Sorry, can't hook you up.

Visited the North Carolina yesterday. Thought of this junk.
Cool old pile of teak, rust, and grease aint it!?... similar to this thread. :)

Pecking away at little things while I wait for bigger parts to come back from powder. Finishing up the changes to the fuel cell and also working out the details on mounting my tail-lamps and switching them over the LED to increase the brightness.

The CAN system is out for re-programming to match my switch selection and some minor logic changes. Once again, Jay and his crew at Infinitybox have been awesome to deal with. I'm sold on using this system in many future builds.

Looking like I'll have a LOT to do towards the end of this month so might be sending out a local request for help to knock some things out when it comes to getting the axles under the truck, firewall finished up, etc.

Cat-eye M37 B.O. lamp being used as brake, turn, and rev. I'm building a 3rd brake like for this thing and blending it into the roof profile because everyone driving since 1986 subconciously expects to see that as a stopping indicator more so than tail lights that are going to actually be mounted kinda low. Better safe than sorry in that case; afterall, the reason I ended up with this truck is because it was rearended even though the previous owner had a 3rd brake light on it then too! Bad Drivers suck!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,036
I'm a little behind on uploading photos, and I had to take a week and a weekend off for an out of town work trip followed up by a weekend of camping and just hanging out with some friends at the family farm.

Got some tail light brackets, and trailer connector brackets cut and bent up. I am running out of material on hand so I am resorting to cutting up some nasty A36 thats laying around vs my A50 HRPO that I prefer to use.

I also got the rear axle under the truck and the front axle mostly under the truck. No photos at the moment but will update later.

TIME FOR A DUMB QUESTION...

Lug nuts... These Hutchinson wheels have a very large diameter seat for the conical seat portion. I am running 9/16" studs front and rear, and the random 9/16" open end nuts I have tend to disappear into the seat. Also the stud bore is .65" diameter so there is a good bit of space there now. Originally the wheels were Hub centric but with the Eaton application, thats no longer the case so they need to be Lug-centric.

Do I need to run ET type lug nuts or just something with a larger diameter conical seat? I'm thinking the ET might be better for getting centric to the lugs and also for some extra insurance for the sake of aluminum wheels.

Thoughts on a good place to get said nuts?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,037
No advice on the lug nuts?

Heres some pics. Rear axle is under and the front axle is under and just needs the outers installed. Will measure and order for shafts here soon and hopefully this coming weekend get the body off of this thing to finish up the firewall.
 

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I think you answered your own question with the lug nuts. If the nuts you have sink into the wheel, it's time for a nut with a larger cone. Just make sure the nuts you end up with have the same angle seat as the rim and you should be fine.
 

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^^^^^ This.

On my CJ-7 I'm running a D70 rear with 5/8" studs and the front axle has 9/16" studs. I was able to find some heavy 9/16" lug nuts so that only one socket was needed. Might not sound like much but they are significantly larger than the stockers...
 

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Yeah, it's looking like Dorman has 60° 9/16" lug nuts all the way up to a 1 1/16" hex, so it shouldn't be too hard to find a bigger lug nut that will work.
 
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