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The shafts are extremely nice quality. I am beyond pleased with Dutchman and the quality of the parts. Talk about some serious hardware when I'm used to dealing with the 35 Spline D60 stuff up front, these things are just impressive.

I also am messing with some 3D printing prototyping, only one minor change to make and then to have them created in something that is known for sure to be UV resistant... or CNC machined.
 

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LOVE the logos. Excellent little touch.

If you go machined you should be sure to plan on coating them somehow. Any corrosion, and they’ll just lock up in the bore. That’d be annoying particularly for something so custom.


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they didn't finish the shafts
turn down the length behind the spline to the minor diameter of the spline, otherwise they'll look like this pretty soon:
 

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The shafts are extremely nice quality. I am beyond pleased with Dutchman and the quality of the parts. Talk about some serious hardware when I'm used to dealing with the 35 Spline D60 stuff up front, these things are just impressive.

I also am messing with some 3D printing prototyping, only one minor change to make and then to have them created in something that is known for sure to be UV resistant... or CNC machined.
What material are you using for printing? Quality looks so much better than what I'm getting out of my poorly tuned printer.
 

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LOVE the logos. Excellent little touch.

If you go machined you should be sure to plan on coating them somehow. Any corrosion, and they’ll just lock up in the bore. That’d be annoying particularly for something so custom.
Ohh for sure, by machined vs printed, I mean machined from some type of UHMW or high duro machinable plastic. My printing guy says he can run them in UV rated material with the same resolution.


they didn't finish the shafts
turn down the length behind the spline to the minor diameter of the spline, otherwise they'll look like this pretty soon:
I don't want to go down that material science road right now... There are varying camps on that concern with the harder heat treated materials now anyways. I'd be afraid of the situation I'd need to put this machine in to get these shafts to look like that, neckdown cut back or not.

What material are you using for printing? Quality looks so much better than what I'm getting out of my poorly tuned printer.
I think this is ABS for the first prototype. The shop is in Norfolk and is called 757MakerSpace. Its a DIY warehouse kinda thing full of tools, rentable space, etc. I fixed their big ventilation fan a few weekends back before they had a big arts show so the owner is helping me out with this in return. I am NOT 3D printer savvy. I shared this on FB and EVERYONE keeps freaking out about material choice and I am having to tell them PROTOTYPE and to chill out; then again they are also the ones that only comment when they can find a place to poke holes in things, balloon poppers, etc.
 

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I shared this on FB and EVERYONE keeps freaking out about material choice and I am having to tell them PROTOTYPE and to chill out; then again they are also the ones that only comment when they can find a place to poke holes in things, balloon poppers, etc.
gotta love the internet
 

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I shared this on FB and EVERYONE keeps freaking out about material choice and I am having to tell them PROTOTYPE and to chill out; then again they are also the ones that only comment when they can find a place to poke holes in things, balloon poppers, etc.
Nuns are gonna die by the busload. That's all I can say. Nuns are going to die...
 

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The shafts are extremely nice quality. I am beyond pleased with Dutchman and the quality of the parts. Talk about some serious hardware when I'm used to dealing with the 35 Spline D60 stuff up front, these things are just impressive.

I also am messing with some 3D printing prototyping, only one minor change to make and then to have them created in something that is known for sure to be UV resistant... or CNC machined.
what about using your 3d printed parts to create a sand mold and have them cast?

I've been watching this guy:
he does both lost PLA investment casting and your traditional cope/drag style.
 

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I think this is ABS for the first prototype. I shared this on FB and EVERYONE keeps freaking out about material choice and I am having to tell them PROTOTYPE and to chill out; then again they are also the ones that only comment when they can find a place to poke holes in things, balloon poppers, etc.
Idiots on FB just look at pictures and don't read anything. :laughing:
 

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Nuns are gonna die by the busload. That's all I can say. Nuns are going to die...
gotta love the internet
Idiots on FB just look at pictures and don't read anything. :laughing:
Yep... The internet, where myths are spread as fact, fact checkers are considered a-holes, and the most creative minds are scoffed at by the most closed minds.

Hi guys! :grinpimp: :flipoff2:

what about using your 3d printed parts to create a sand mold and have them cast?

I've been watching this guy:
he does both lost PLA investment casting and your traditional cope/drag style.
Others have suggested that as well but seems a little more time intensive for something that sees little load and is mostly cosmetic, and only need to make two of them. A CNC would easily turn these out. I may just look into running these again in a better plastic, and even could have them painted with some UV resistant coating; as in about a year and half, I am planning on setting myself up with a Tormach or similar 4 axis and then I'll just mill them out of whatever. Along with whatever other goodies I still need to finish for this setup.

In case anyone ever decides to run these Ghey-bree-L load helping shocks, (Gabriel Hi-Jacker) which most people hate because they are installed on stock capacity shock mounts and over-charged, along with the crap plastic air line system that comes with them appears to be junk. Well, turns out the welded on fittings are just 1/4" yor-lok cone compression fittings. I used some 1/4" CuNi hard lines, flared one end to JIC and used some higher pressure rated push-lok hose. This feeds to a T and will be run off of a Clippard Fill/Bleed valve. Just some short runs of flex line so that the bags don't try and blow the hoses off; if they do, I can make or have made a set of 1/4" JIC flex lines with a higher pressure rating.

Finish welding the exhaust system... I learned yesterday that I needed to trim just a little more off of the top of the gear-train plate to get the exhaust out past the ridiculous floorboard that I built. It was one of those "just barely doesn't fit" things, but it fits now.

Also, just because I am always scrounging for the next build, I picked up another divorced 205 recently... and also have this 350 lb gearbox to pickup from a friend. Road Ranger RT610 10 speed, for the other "bomber" Carryall that I plan on building. Im going to look for the overdrive gear kit to convert this box to the RTO as it would then be perfect for the 4-53T detroit, another set of Eatons, 4.57s and some 43"s.

:grinpimp:
 

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I'm not sure if a non-synchro transmission would be my pick for something befitting 43s but I'd sure love an RTO behind a small-midsize diesel again.
 

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I don't want to go down that material science road right now... There are varying camps on that concern with the harder heat treated materials now anyways. I'd be afraid of the situation I'd need to put this machine in to get these shafts to look like that, neckdown cut back or not.
Eh, I just see it as getting a lot of extra shock resistance for the cost of a couple hours doing mindless lathe work. I like mindless lathe work, get to shut your brain off and watch the chips fall.

I had 4140 shafts left full thickness do that 'twisting only at the splines' thing, so when I went 4340 on the next ones I made sure to do all the right shit.
 

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Others have suggested that as well but seems a little more time intensive for something that sees little load and is mostly cosmetic, and only need to make two of them. A CNC would easily turn these out. I may just look into running these again in a better plastic, and even could have them painted with some UV resistant coating; as in about a year and half, I am planning on setting myself up with a Tormach or similar 4 axis and then I'll just mill them out of whatever. Along with whatever other goodies I still need to finish for this setup.
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then I would suggest PETG or ABS. It depends on how stiff you need them. PETG is more durable, ABS is stiffer.

then I'd paint them with rc car body paint in whatever color you want.
 

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I also am messing with some 3D printing prototyping, only one minor change to make and then to have them created in something that is known for sure to be UV resistant... or CNC machined.
You could try this stuff:
pushplastic.com/products/pc-pbt

This guy has been using it for production dirtbike parts for a while and it seems to hold up pretty well:
motominded.com/pages/about

(I am not allowed to post URLs due to my post count so just add a www obviously)

I just purchased a couple rolls but can't personally comment as I have yet to use it. If you share your model I would be happy to try it out on my printer and let you give it a go (I live in VB). It looks like your part was ABS with an acetone smoothing applied is that correct? The PT/PCB likely would not react the same to acetone, so you would have to machine/sand it to get a really smooth finish like that. On the subject of turning printed parts into machined aluminum: if the original part was plastic then the printed part should be just fine, plus the stuff is super cheap and you can print as many spares as you need. Thus, as long as it looks good and functions the UV deterioration would be slow enough, in my opinion, not to bother.
 

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Monday Essay update...

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then I would suggest PETG or ABS. It depends on how stiff you need them. PETG is more durable, ABS is stiffer.

then I'd paint them with rc car body paint in whatever color you want.
This is what a few folks in the 3D printing world are also suggesting to me. The dials will see minimal loads other than over-running the spring for the lockouts. I actually like the grey color that these first ones came out in. But anything earthy would work probably.

Dude, thats awesome! I'm going to tab that build for when I go to start messing with this other gear box. The price of the RT610 warrants the non-syncro straight cut gears. Behind the 4-53T in the bomber themed other Carryall, it won't be a daily driven truck like this current project is. Had an RTO610 behind a 4-71 in an old International wrecker as a kid growing up and I could shift that hot dogging it around the JD dealership at 14 years old I remember how "cool" I thought I was. :massey:

You could try this stuff:
pushplastic.com/products/pc-pbt

This guy has been using it for production dirtbike parts for a while and it seems to hold up pretty well:
motominded.com/pages/about

(I am not allowed to post URLs due to my post count so just add a www obviously)

I just purchased a couple rolls but can't personally comment as I have yet to use it. If you share your model I would be happy to try it out on my printer and let you give it a go (I live in VB). It looks like your part was ABS with an acetone smoothing applied is that correct? The PT/PCB likely would not react the same to acetone, so you would have to machine/sand it to get a really smooth finish like that. On the subject of turning printed parts into machined aluminum: if the original part was plastic then the printed part should be just fine, plus the stuff is super cheap and you can print as many spares as you need. Thus, as long as it looks good and functions the UV deterioration would be slow enough, in my opinion, not to bother.
Hey man, just saw this. The printer that ran the first one is some crazy expensive HD unit. I can send you the file over if you want something to mess with but 757MakerSpace said they have plenty of other materials to run it through with, just their CAM guy was out of town for a week.

And I agree with you on the UV deterioration issue; especially if I paint them or something.


Got a few things done over the weekend, but only took pictures of a few.

I finally got around to installing the internal beadlocks into the wheels. I was expecting this to be more of a hassle than it turned out to be. The hardest part was I had ONE wheel that just refused to come apart. The first one I broke down took a few whacks with a 2x4 and small mallet to get it to split apart at the centric pilot hub and to release around the studs because of the tight tolerance on the holes. Well, the second one stuck together pretty good, so it seems. Beat on it a good bit and it didn't seem to want to move but maybe a little on one side. I spent 20 minutes messing with it before flipping it back over with the intentions of trying to get the tire off with a spoon and pry bars when I noticed ONE nut was still on a stud that I had totally missed. :homer::homer::homer::homer: I blame it on the heat...

After that, the rest came apart easily, the internal locks went in with only a little bit of fight, and luckily these studs are the perfect length that getting the shells back started and piloted on was not a real fight. Also, when I had them apart I threw about 16 oz of balancing media into them based on others reviews of these tires.

Also if you ever need to pickup Spicer parts for your builds, hit up Down To Fab .com. The guys that run it are awesome. If you don't see something on the website, just email em and they can get it and it will be added to their inventory. These are the Spicer Brand 35 spline stubs and they were a better price than Dutchman, Yukon, Etc. I also ordered my U-joints from him and the rest of the stuff for the Front driveshaft. Which reminds me, I need to order my 1350 front output yoke for the NP205.

Got the shafts installed and dialed in the Camber with a set of adjustable lowers. I've also heard mixed reviews on running these things. Essentially its don't use them on a hardcore wheeling rig and if adjusted properly, they are fine on street trucks, and then there are two instances where guys admit to putting a small TIG tack on the eccentric stud to keep it from spinning when tightening it all down. After messing with them, I feel it would be an install error if they are changing adjustment after the fact, or the lower bearing is locking up and causing the stud to break free and move. Also, you can see in the photo, the dog is still alive and fairly well, granted he was OVER the heat and kept rotating his spot on the cool concrete or sitting directly in front of the floor fan, blocking it from moving any air and just panting with this F-U smirk on his face.

1/4 of a degree of negative camber should be fine. I thought about taking it in up to a full degree to reduce wear on the outer shoulders of the front tires but after reading a few P4x4 threads regarding camber effects on larger tire solid axle trucks, its not really that big of a deal and the effects of caster working with camber has more of an effect than just initial zero point camber anyways.

However, there are always the stupid little things that keep slowing me down. This front donor axle is an '86 for the Ford outers. I keep spacing on that and even when I ordered my first round of brake parts I just ordered the "KP Ford twin piston brake setup". MISTAKE. The '86 calipers and stands are different. They are NOT the H-block setup that I was used to, instead they are the weird drive in rubber/metal clips. EASY as pie to install, etc. After returning the wrong calipers, and getting the "correct ones" I go to install them yesterday and they are just BARELY striking the outside radius of the rotor; on both sides, but the driver's side locks the rotor up, passenger's side just zings along. So, the hubs and rotors I have are off of a TTB F-250 setup that I bought because originally I had Dually hubs. So with this being the case, I figure okay maybe this is just the wrong rotor. I check the PN on two different autoparts box stores and its still the same PN for the the TTB 50 setups as the Solid Kingpin 60 stuff. So, I guess, the rotors that were on these 250 hubs are just machined wrong. Or the Reman-calipers are wrong, but they look like old castings. The last thing I am wondering is since my stands were pretty scaled and had some notable pitting, that they are allowing the caliper bodies to strike the rotor. Either way, I am just going to toss the whole hub and rotor assembly on the lathe and take a few thou' off the OD, and also check them for true so that its one less thing to "shake or wobble" while dialing in this forever project.
 

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nitpick: I bet you've got a tenth of a degree of slop on that axle shaft coming through the spindle without any outer support on it.
I bet it doesn't matter at all :)

I'm really curious what you find on the rotors. You're sure it's just OD and not face into bracket due to install order?

I'm trying to remember details but there was some hub/bearing combination that a friend ran across on mix-n-match D60 that ran the hub a quarter inch closer to the knuckle than it should be. Then there's also the spindle vs caliper bracket order but the seal surface shoulder length on the spindle makes it look like you've got that right for your parts combo. IIRC it's a chev v ford difference but I've lost track. I just go by the dirt marks on my junk, been a long time since I've had to figure out from scratch on parts that have been made to look fresh!
 
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