*Knock on wood* Have yet to have a problem with either my Jackson NexGen or Miller Elite, though I hate the Elite, and it was free. :grinpimp: Jackson battery life sucks too, next hood will be Speedglas prolly.
does tig welding fuck with auto helmets?
I have 2 snap on low profile auto helmets. I have used one for over 3 years and never had it behave weird .
Now that I'm tig welding it doesn't want to come on . it seemed good for low amp thin stuff but almost nothing on 150+amp. I can clearly see the arc. Change angle to try and expose the photocell thinking maybe It had a shadow.
These are very basic lens, no adjustment for speed or shade . off 3, on 11.
They are also a narrow lens. Not the 4x6 full face lens.
Now that I'm tig welding it doesn't want to come on . it seemed good for low amp thin stuff but almost nothing on 150+amp. I can clearly see the arc. Change angle to try and expose the photocell thinking maybe It had a shadow.
These are very basic lens, no adjustment for speed or shade . off 3, on 11.
They are also a narrow lens. Not the 4x6 full face lens.
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
You know to this time unless my hood is pretty much wedged that it can`t move I still nod my head
HF AC radiates a large amount of RF noise. Don't believe that? Do some research. Unless electronics are very well shielded, they will be affected. My machine uses a spark gap for part of the HF generation, spark gap is far noisier than many modern machines.Not calling you or anyone a liar but that just seems completely illogical that Hi freq. would cause any issues with the lens turning on or off. Considering what a major role that hi freq. plays in a lot of welding operations, if it was causing a problem with a safety device, I would suspect osha would be on top of it and have some specified safety procedure called out for welding with hi frequency. I also don't entirely know what I'm talking about so I'll be staying tuned to this thread in hopes of someone posting some more technical information without my having to put out the effort to goresearch it myself. :laughing:
There is no safety hazard. It has been beat to death before, but any osha approved hood will provide the same radiation protection whether the lens darkens or not.
As far as I know, the only welding process that uses a High Frequency ac component is tig welding. It is commonly used to start the arc, and help keep the arc stable while doing AC tig welding. DC tig using scratch start or lift arc has no HF ac. DC mig/stick uses no HF AC nor does AC stick.
I expect that the reason not everyone has experienced this is because conditions and equipment very greatly. Also, things like having your welding table bonded to earth as well as bonding building steel to earth can significantly reduce radiated RF. I switched to using a fixed shade gold lens a long time ago specifically because of this problem. Probably moving to a modern machine would go a long ways, but for my my old Dialarc meets my needs pretty much exactly.
Later,
Jason
It does/can mess with auto dark helmets.
I used an elite in the past that would darken just by pressing the tig pedal...not even strikng the arc...pretty much every time.
Has happened other times with other welders and helmets as well, but nothing lately...I use Optrel In general and have tigged miles an inch at a time:flipoff2:
I used an elite in the past that would darken just by pressing the tig pedal...not even strikng the arc...pretty much every time.
Has happened other times with other welders and helmets as well, but nothing lately...I use Optrel In general and have tigged miles an inch at a time:flipoff2:
THIS! :laughing: no matter what, I still do it. Just a habitYou know to this time unless my hood is pretty much wedged that it can`t move I still nod my head
Dc lift start , no pedal.
I completely get the early activation. I had mine come on just bringing the torch up to my head when lifting the hood. Its the lack of function that is annoying.
I completely get the early activation. I had mine come on just bringing the torch up to my head when lifting the hood. Its the lack of function that is annoying.
In light of earlier posts, I will post up my whole setup. Maybe we can establish a pattern or something that could be the cause in your case?
Miller syncrowave 350 (1990's vintage), WP-20 torch, old ass miller foot pedal, bench not bonded to anything, inside a large metal building that is bonded to the rebar in the slab. Using a Miller Digital Elite, no problems. Tried amperage from 20-175, all polatities, HF intensity at max, still no problems. Shop radio hates the HF, though... :laughing: Nothing fancy on the electrical to the Miller. No case bonding to the building, etc.
Miller syncrowave 350 (1990's vintage), WP-20 torch, old ass miller foot pedal, bench not bonded to anything, inside a large metal building that is bonded to the rebar in the slab. Using a Miller Digital Elite, no problems. Tried amperage from 20-175, all polatities, HF intensity at max, still no problems. Shop radio hates the HF, though... :laughing: Nothing fancy on the electrical to the Miller. No case bonding to the building, etc.
I have a diversion 165 and a miller digital elite. I weld in x mode and exclusively tig for the last 6-7 years with this specific setup. I think the digital elite has an electromagnetic field symbol that pops up in x mode and it will, as others have said, trigger the hood just by depressing the pedal. Have changed the battery once in the digital elite but no other issues, never been flashed.
Esab 260 multimaster.
Dc lift start.
Non replaceable batteries in my hood.I have pics of the lens I'll post in a bit.
Dc lift start.
Non replaceable batteries in my hood.I have pics of the lens I'll post in a bit.
To clarify my earlier post. What I meant with the comment about osha was not about the HF being harmful but rather that it would create an unsafe work environment by "deactivating" an piece of PPE that is an automatic safety device.HF AC radiates a large amount of RF noise. Don't believe that? Do some research. Unless electronics are very well shielded, they will be affected. My machine uses a spark gap for part of the HF generation, spark gap is far noisier than many modern machines.
There is no safety hazard. It has been beat to death before, but any osha approved hood will provide the same radiation protection whether the lens darkens or not.
As far as I know, the only welding process that uses a High Frequency ac component is tig welding. It is commonly used to start the arc, and help keep the arc stable while doing AC tig welding. DC tig using scratch start or lift arc has no HF ac. DC mig/stick uses no HF AC nor does AC stick.
I expect that the reason not everyone has experienced this is because conditions and equipment very greatly. Also, things like having your welding table bonded to earth as well as bonding building steel to earth can significantly reduce radiated RF. I switched to using a fixed shade gold lens a long time ago specifically because of this problem. Probably moving to a modern machine would go a long ways, but for my my old Dialarc meets my needs pretty much exactly.
Later,
Jason
I do understand that RF interference causes issues with other electronic devices. I've been tig welding on nearly a daily basis for the last eight to ten years and never once have I experienced an issue with HF causing my auto dark hoods to flicker. I have used at least 5 different brands or models in that time period including a Harbor freight $50 hood all the way up to my Speedglas I use now. As I said, to me it is completely illogical that a welding hood that is intended for use with all welding procedures would not be shielded against that interference or a warning posted on the side of it that it may malfunction during use on HF welding procedures.
This has been my experience as well, i have had a depress of the pedal activate my Jackson once or twice, but no harm done.To clarify my earlier post. What I meant with the comment about osha was not about the HF being harmful but rather that it would create an unsafe work environment by "deactivating" an piece of PPE that is an automatic safety device.
I do understand that RF interference causes issues with other electronic devices. I've been tig welding on nearly a daily basis for the last eight to ten years and never once have I experienced an issue with HF causing my auto dark hoods to flicker. I have used at least 5 different brands or models in that time period including a Harbor freight $50 hood all the way up to my Speedglas I use now. As I said, to me it is completely illogical that a welding hood that is intended for use with all welding procedures would not be shielded against that interference or a warning posted on the side of it that it may malfunction during use on HF welding procedures.
The only thing the high frequency had messed up is my old Zune mp3 player (messed up screen and randomly shut off) and it gives that loud background noise on radios. (But not my Bluetooth speakers which it randomly cuts out)
Syncrowave 250, old and new models, no clue how electrical is set up.
Anybody use a pacemaker and a TIG?
I checked the manual for my TIG. No warnings.
I don't have a pacemaker myself, but now I'm wondering if I should warn visitors.
I checked the manual for my TIG. No warnings.
I don't have a pacemaker myself, but now I'm wondering if I should warn visitors.
In pretty sure any arc welding at all is a no no for a pace maker.
IIRC, there was a thread in GCC a year or two ago about process welding & pacemakers. Wasn't a problem, I think.
Edit: Okay, it was a heckuva lot longer ago than a year or two: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-chit-chat/517625-pacemakers-welding.html
Okay, it can be a problem.
Edit: Okay, it was a heckuva lot longer ago than a year or two: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-chit-chat/517625-pacemakers-welding.html
Okay, it can be a problem.
yes, hf ac/dc tig is a problem. pissed my boss right off when he got his pmaker.
so bad that he straight sold the machine.
so bad that he straight sold the machine.
I loved my speedglas, untill i used a miller.SpeedGlas for the win.
My Speedglas actually has a TIG setting. Turn the knob to TIG, TA DA! works fine.
Maybe time to stop using a helmet that says "PlaySKool" on the side. :flipoff2:
My speedglas 9002 helmet would always switch on and off if i had to tig far away(arms outreached) or around corners and even real close up. (sensors are on the sides)
I bought a miller, have not been flashed once since. and the head strap is sooooo much more comfortable. and i wear my helmets every day so that is a big point for me. i also noticed a big difference now that ive been using the miller in low amp stuff.
I have now put my speedglas into the sacrificial Mig and stick helmet pile. the only selling point on speedglas now for me is the fact they are smaller and fit inside things easier for hard to get places.
I will agree the SpeedGlas head gear sucks. But I have 2 now, including one that I got as a gift for my 17th birthday. (I'm 33 now)I loved my speedglas, untill i used a miller.
My speedglas 9002 helmet would always switch on and off if i had to tig far away(arms outreached) or around corners and even real close up. (sensors are on the sides)
I bought a miller, have not been flashed once since. and the head strap is sooooo much more comfortable. and i wear my helmets every day so that is a big point for me. i also noticed a big difference now that ive been using the miller in low amp stuff.
I have now put my speedglas into the sacrificial Mig and stick helmet pile. the only selling point on speedglas now for me is the fact they are smaller and fit inside things easier for hard to get places.
I think the newer one's sensor works alittle better, but I wouldn't say it's a deal breaker. My SpeedGlas has out lasted everyone's brand X helmet.
I get the selling point of "more sensors", but SpeedGlas's explanation is the 2 sensors are in line with your eyes, where you're looking.
Again, to each their own. I weld everyday. I've heard it all when it comes to hoods. I say buy what you like. And when you get sick of your OCC hood with custom flames and you get laughed off a job, go buy a SpeedGlas.
On the other hand, my dad hated his SpeedGlas. He swears that you can get flashed through one and still welds with a Huntsmen. I assure you that's a myth. The auto "shade" you experience is for comfort and the ability to see your work/puddle.
Now, I also have an old Huntsmen for TIG'ing in weird spots where the hood can't "see" and won't trigger. I use it about twice a year.
Supposedly the newest SpeedGlas helmets have really good head gear. I've yet to try one, and they have a few other new cool features I'd like to try one out and pick one up.
I've had a cheap helmet from Northern Tool for a few years now. I got it when I started learning MIG welding. It's worked fine for MIG, and when I started learning TIG welding it worked fine for TIG as well. I eventually did get a nicer Jackson BH3 helmet, but the original cheapo helmet of mine didn't ever have problems triggering when I started welding. The only time I've had it not trigger is when a piece of tube was actually blocking the sensor, when I was cramped up in a tight location. But I think that would probably get most helmets.
My issue with the 2 vs 3 or 4 sensors is that your eyes are not that far apart,even if you can still see the puddle doesn't mean those can. if you have ever welded deep inside something where your hands have to be outside and close to your helmet it really sucks when your hands block the sensors half way through your bead making you have to reposition your head and re-start.I will agree the SpeedGlas head gear sucks. But I have 2 now, including one that I got as a gift for my 17th birthday. (I'm 33 now)
I think the newer one's sensor works alittle better, but I wouldn't say it's a deal breaker. My SpeedGlas has out lasted everyone's brand X helmet.
I get the selling point of "more sensors", but SpeedGlas's explanation is the 2 sensors are in line with your eyes, where you're looking.
Again, to each their own. I weld everyday. I've heard it all when it comes to hoods. I say buy what you like. And when you get sick of your OCC hood with custom flames and you get laughed off a job, go buy a SpeedGlas.
On the other hand, my dad hated his SpeedGlas. He swears that you can get flashed through one and still welds with a Huntsmen. I assure you that's a myth. The auto "shade" you experience is for comfort and the ability to see your work/puddle.
Now, I also have an old Huntsmen for TIG'ing in weird spots where the hood can't "see" and won't trigger. I use it about twice a year.
Supposedly the newest SpeedGlas helmets have really good head gear. I've yet to try one, and they have a few other new cool features I'd like to try one out and pick one up.
thats where that extra sensor come into play for me. and i personally wouldn't be without it anymore.
Even my boss who swears up and down about speedglas since he watched a video that told him they were the leader in designs and helmet technologies or whatever. I gave him my miller for a couple jobs and he went out and bought one. the sell point for him was the automatic power on. because he would constantly forget to turn on his speedglas.
I still use my speedglas and it is a great helmet but i personally prefer the miller.
I also have a speedglas 9002 for sale if anyone is interested shoot me a PM.
All of my welding helmets are Huntsman 951p's. 2 of them have Huntsman XVL auto darkening lenses. Love that combo and have never had a problem with tig. Not even with my new inverter unit which seems to give some other auto shades some fits. Been using these lenses for at least 16 years and couldn't be happier.
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
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