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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, it’s nice to see some old off-road-dot-com’ers over here.
The napa timing chain I had installed has already gone to pot, so I’m going to get the full DOA kit and install it myself. I got a very competent mechanic friend of mine who is going to be helping me out. I’d just assume do it myself rather than have my mechanic, that way I know it gets done right, plus he wants 1 grand to do it!
But before I start, I’d like to ask you guys if there are any steps I should avoid when doing the process.
I know I don’t have to take the head off, so I’m not going to do that.
Do I need any specialized tools to do the job properly?

I’m considering just changing the guides, since the chain only has 20k miles on it. I’ve heard that the napa chains are ok, but the guides are crap.
The engine is acting just like it did before the old chain went out, so I’m quite sure it’s the chain.

So if you have any advice or tips, I’d really appreciate it.
 

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Just remember that sneaky bolt under a puddle of oil that goes from the head into the timing chain cover, we spent an hour trying to figure out why it wouldn't come off before I remembered that bolt <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, I'll be on the lookout for that one <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I've got the whole weekend spared for it, just in case.
 

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$1000 to replace the timing chain??? <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> If I could get people to pay that I'd quit my job!

Also keep track of all the bolts as they come out. There are MANY different lengths! If you know where to put them back it will make things a lot easier. Ask me how I know. <IMG SRC="smilies/blush2.gif" border="0">
 

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Well just did mine a little while ago.

let's see, lessons learned...

resist desire to spray the carb cleaner to the intake once its off...you run the risk of killin' the throttle position sensor(TPS). Take the TPS out first.

You do know the trick to removing the crank bolt with the "bump starter braker bar tied to the frame trick?

Remove the Crank bolt before pulling the valve cover and cam gear bolt.

Pulling the skid pan, radiator shroud makes the job a lot easier...almost impossible otherwise.

re-torgue your head while you have your valve cover off.

make sure you are at top dead center and note the distributor rotor position before you pull the dist so you can easily get it back in time when you restabb it. Otherwise you can easily get it 180 degrees out.

From what you've said, I'm wondering if your problem isn't more related to the chain tensioner....did you replace it with a factory one when you did your last chain?

If not, I'd give it some serious thought while I was in there.

Lastly, check and make sure you have good oil pressure as the chain tensioner won't work worth a damn without adequate oil pressure to keep it pumped up tight.

I'm looking at doing that to mine now as my Oil Pressure is very low at warm idle.

Dogsailer
 

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I just opened mine up and say that I needed a new cover and got one for $69 new at www.engnbldr.com Ted was great. While I figured I would just overhaul the motor since I had to pull the head and pan. So far I have it all apart and all the parts back form the machine shop so I have a FULL weekend to gain a greater apprication for my toyota <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 10-24-2001: Message edited by: K5LA ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by dogsailer:
<STRONG>Well just did mine a little while ago.

From what you've said, I'm wondering if your problem isn't more related to the chain tensioner....did you replace it with a factory one when you did your last chain?

If not, I'd give it some serious thought while I was in there.

Lastly, check and make sure you have good oil pressure as the chain tensioner won't work worth a damn without adequate oil pressure to keep it pumped up tight.


Dogsailer</STRONG>
I talked to Tim at DOA yesterday and he said that the NAPA kits are notorious for the roller pins loosening up and then getting sloppy and then they start hitting the plastic guides. So I'm just going to go though and replace the guides and the chain with Tim's kit.
To be honest, I don't know if my mechanic replaced the chain tensioner, I can't find him or get a hold of him. I guess he's MIA or something, so I'm just going to buck up and do it myself.

Thanks for the tips, Helps a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't have to remove the front differential do I?

A manual I got says that I should.
 

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How much are the DOA kis? Dan E, how was/is your motor acting? I think mine is on its last leg it has some issues. Also is it possible for the truck to run if the timing chain is off by one tooth?
 

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Known to the people who use it is frigging icky black sh*t, or FIPG (Form In Place Gasket). The places I like to use this is at the bottom of the head gasket where the cover meets the head, I've even heard of people cutting off the head gasket and using FIPG in place of the gasket. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> Needless to say, FIPG the oil pan gasket where the cover is off, and I'm partial to putting a small dab on the bolts of the oil pump too. As far as DOA's kit goes, I love mine, Tim seems to have all the knowlege you could ever need, including the fact that the chain, and tensioner are from the same place as the OEM parts. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> As far as dropping the diff goes, no way. solid axles are a breeze to do, the indys are a little more challenging, but still more than dooable without loosing the diff. This job is not hard, don't be to intimidated. especially when your saveing gobs of money that you can sink into more important places in the truck! <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by Jase:
<STRONG>How much are the DOA kis? Dan E, how was/is your motor acting? I think mine is on its last leg it has some issues. Also is it possible for the truck to run if the timing chain is off by one tooth?</STRONG>
Jase
I got the whole kit from DOA for $215.00 shipped to my door. That's the guides, and the chain and all the gaskets.
I did my chain a year and a half ago, the mechanic who did it replaced it with a napa kit, little did I know then how bad those kits are. Enter 20 thousand miles later and the thing is starting to rattle just like the old one did.
Funny thing, my old chain skipped a tooth on the cam, just like you mentioned. I was able to time the truck well enough to get it to the shop, but I probably had about 50 hp!
If you think you have a timing chain problem, change it as quick as possible. I was just lucky that my chain didn't break the first time. When a chain breaks on a Toyota engine you end up with broken/bent valves and possibly damaged pistons.
I put off doing the chain till this weekend. I’m getting a new water pump, and it isn’t here yet.

Thanks for all the tips guys <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 
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