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You guys that use PIPE are idiots. TUBE is the shit. I use exclusively TUBE.

I use TUBE with 1.66" OD x 0.140" wall for main hoops, TUBE 1.315" OD x 0.133" wall for secondary supports and TUBE 1.050" OD x 0.113" for handles.


Surely you PIPE guys can agree with me on this, these TUBE sizes are much better than PIPE........


Right???

:D
 

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IMHO, if you can bend it 90* and it don't break or collapse it's going to be fine.All pipe has to be built to certain standards to be sold in the US whether it was foreign made or not,and just about all pipe is foreign made.You are not going to see any difference from shop to shop in anything but price.
its kinda wierd but here the pipe is Made in Canada and the DOM tube I bought was made in India.
so which is bester? :p
 

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This whole topic has been beat way too much and I am not reguitating a whole bunch of info so look here: http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=78886

I would also not use A53 Grade A for anything when Grade B, Type E or S is easily available for the same price.


What does the AP1 SLA mean? if anything. made by Mueller Industries
API 5L-A is pipe manufactured to meet API Specification 5L, "Specification for Line Pipe" and would be grade A which is 30ksi Min Yield, 48ksi Min Tensile. Once again just like ASTM A53 grade B is a better choice.


You know what the main thing that test showed? That none of the pipe supporters either read or understood my post. I didn't take those pics, I didn't do that test, I only posted them because they clearly show the difference in crush resistance.
All the pictures show is the "crush resistance" of unknown grades and cross sections of different round pieces of metal which is useless.
 

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This whole topic has been beat way too much and I am not reguitating a whole bunch of info so look here: http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=78886

I would also not use A53 Grade A for anything when Grade B, Type E or S is easily available for the same price.




API 5L-A is pipe manufactured to meet API Specification 5L, "Specification for Line Pipe" and would be grade A which is 30ksi Min Yield, 48ksi Min Tensile. Once again just like ASTM A53 grade B is a better choice.




All the pictures show is the "crush resistance" of unknown grades and cross sections of different round pieces of metal which is useless.

jason, i serverly beat that dark red exocaged truggy i built(entirely out of the a53b pipe). multiple flops from 10-12 feet up on ledges down onto solid granite along with bashing the stinger into rock faces to launch up waterfalls, etc. with the exception of the front bottom edges of the stinger which eventually started to crush, only deep rock rash and gouges resulted, no real deformation or shifting of the cage work by more than 1/2''-5/8''...the main hoop was actually from allpros flatbed kit and was either hrew or DOM mild steel tube?? it was nearly needing replacement in sections, while the surrounding pipe material was barely scathed...

i dunno if you use tubing or pipe in your builds, but thats my experience.
 

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Paul:

Free seamless pipe compared to not free tube? surely you jest? Pipe all the way but usually A106-B or A333-6.

As far as a "build" I just finished the 8 month long 200A service upgrade to the shop and finally have power for welders.
 

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You guys that use PIPE are idiots. TUBE is the shit. I use exclusively TUBE.

I use TUBE with 1.66" OD x 0.140" wall for main hoops, TUBE 1.315" OD x 0.133" wall for secondary supports and TUBE 1.050" OD x 0.113" for handles.


Surely you PIPE guys can agree with me on this, these TUBE sizes are much better than PIPE........


Right???

:D
thats funny:D.

jason.
 

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I really do hate these debates ... I use 1 1/4" schedule 40 on my cage, belly , and slider supports . I land HARD on both my belly and slider supports with a 6000 lb rig pretty much everytime I wheel.

I have one dented pipe on my belly and a few slightly dented spots on my slider supports .... after watching 3000 lb or less yota based buggies crushing their dom sliders

i love the pipe but thats just me
The exact same thing i was going to say,my buddie has a sick exo cage on a toyota that a reputable fab shop built out of dom and has dents in it every where and my rig and all the many rig's that i have tubed get sch40 very few dents in all of them.Dom is gay unless you are dealing with high speed and race cars.:flipoff2:
 

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jason, i serverly beat that dark red exocaged truggy i built(entirely out of the a53b pipe). multiple flops from 10-12 feet up on ledges down onto solid granite along with bashing the stinger into rock faces to launch up waterfalls, etc. with the exception of the front bottom edges of the stinger which eventually started to crush, only deep rock rash and gouges resulted, no real deformation or shifting of the cage work by more than 1/2''-5/8''...the main hoop was actually from allpros flatbed kit and was either hrew or DOM mild steel tube?? it was nearly needing replacement in sections, while the surrounding pipe material was barely scathed...

i dunno if you use tubing or pipe in your builds, but thats my experience.
Agreed!
 

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Everything has been beat to death that pipe vs. tube is nothing more than a sizing system, you show me a piece of DOM tube of x grade, and i can show a piece of "pipe'' that has a 30,000psi higher ultimate strength, in a similar size and thickness, and is a true seamless, or welded (whatever process you wish) or whatever the hell you want it to be.

No because the die pushes straight into the tube and collapses the wall, its not like rolling it onto the die like a mandrel bender.
Now i know whats meant here (i believe in terms of the ovality of the pipe within the bend zone) but all pipe under goes a change in its dimension, the ovality changes, there will always be wall thing on the extradous of the bend (upwards of 17-20% in some cases when using a very tight radius, but for the typical jd2 you can expect up to a 12.5% reduction in wall thickness), these priciples are applied to every type of bending of any material, same thing with bending of seamed pipe, make damn sure that weld seam is on the neutral axis of the bend or you'll lose any garantee of mainting a sound weld.
 

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has anyone ever really seen the so called poop pipe shatter and splinter off:shaking:
Actually, I have seen *pipe* shatter - once. Used as a rock slider on a Jeep for 15+ years or hard trails (even survived a 3+ rotation roll down Helicopter Pad in Tellico), I saw said Jeep slam sideways into a rock and the pipe (3" I think?) literally shatter into pieces.

First time I've seen it, only time I've seen it. But I have seen it.
 

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I didn't take these pics, but hopefully you people who are too cheap to spend a couple extra dollars on your safety can take something from them.

Sh40 vs. .120" wall DOM (obviously the pipe loses)






DOM vs. HREW (DOM wins)




4130 vs. HREW (4130 wins)
doesn't seem like a valid test - it's crushing the top pipe/tube and trying to bend the bottom one. There should be a support directly under the press to see which one fails first.
 

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doesn't seem like a valid test - it's crushing the top pipe/tube and trying to bend the bottom one. There should be a support directly under the press to see which one fails first.
I agree. If they had reversed positions of each tube for the tests, and gotten the same failure in each test, it *might* mean something then.
 
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