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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever tried this? Any good/bad experiences to share?

I found a trailer sale place once that offered "double car" goosenecks that actually put one car on the deck, the second had the front wheels on a swivel platform, rear tires on the ground for their double-car feature..

A buddy of mine came to a race in Wyoming last Memorial Day and wanted to bring two of his toys...






Tow rig is an IH 3/4T 4x4 long-box, with a 500 Caddy/TH400. 4.09 gears at the time. He's since (unrelated) upgraded to a 3.73 Dana 70 rear and dual rear wheels.

Trailer is, I believe, a 20'er, though it might be an 18'.

100" WB Scout II on the deck, 100" WB Scout 800

Both are relatively light-weight race vehicles, weighing at most 4000lbs each, and IIRC closer to 3000lbs.

Trailer is rated for 10k.

He pulled this setup from Denver to Powell, around 600 miles, with no reported problems. He's taken similarly laden trips to Ohio and other locations as well.

He just drives the second rig up onto the deck, and chains the front axle down, then drops the rear driveshaft.

Seems to work alright.

I definitely like the 25'-ish gooseneck option other friends have employed.. but, as is usually the case, I already have a tag-along flatbed for hauling a single rig.. and at the moment there's only one trip a year I'd like to haul more than one rig to..

Using something like this, I'd avoid the cost of a new trailer, don't have to worry about storing 30' of trailer...

Downside - won't turn as well, harder to get the tongue weight right, rear wheel bearing wear/maintenance on the second rig, gotta make sure the trailer axles are up to the job, more weight on the same brakes..


And, for refence.. I'm not talking about pulling this with a 1/2T short-box lifted 4x4 pickup - or Blazer/Bronco. :D



I'll be using my 166" WB IH 4dr long-box one-ton. Which will be 4x4 converted, and may optionally be dual-rear-wheel by the time I'd get around to trying this..

As the truck sat in that picture, I have a 9K GVWR pickup that weighs 6000lbs empty. In tow-trim I have around 3200lbs on the nose, 4000lbs on the rear axle (GAWR 7500lbs, tires are 6000lbs, springs 6300), and 5500lbs on the tandem axle car trailer.

With my 20' 6000lbs truck pulling the 16' of trailer I've never had any problems with trailer sway, and with the 1T brakes, it'll stop just fine in a straight line with a little extra pedal effort even if the trailer brake controller should fail. Stops even better with the trailer brakes helping, of course.

I guess my biggest fear is I'll have to "drive" again.. I tried pulling the Scout n' trailer with a 1/2T Travelall and didn't like it very much.. so I bought the crewcab. :)
 

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I've got an 18' 10k trailer that I pull with a 3/4 ton and was wondering if I could do the same thing for the occational trip. I'll be very interested in hearing about others who have tried this and any legalities of such.

Damon
 

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The only semi-unnsurmountable problem I see is tounge weight, too little rather than too much. Move the tire rack, and I think it will be ok.

Side note, which way are you thinking of going for the dually rear?

Stock -15?
- 20 with your hi-speed gears? NO wheel bearing problems then :D:D
D-70?
I'm talking Dave into a 14-bolt for his "working-on-possibly-happening" MV diesel conversion in his '75 lawn ornament. The way I figure it, it's worth it for the 3.73 gears.
3.73's, 33's,T-36 is about the best towing combo I can think of for simplicity, RPM's and cost.
Then it's just a matter of how long the 14 will hold up to a 444's abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That Mick said:
The only semi-unnsurmountable problem I see is tounge weight, too little rather than too much. Move the tire rack, and I think it will be ok.
Tire rack is moving up and forward, so it'll sit on top of the "wall" at the front of the trailer.

I want to do it anyhow..

Not sure yet if I move the rig all the way forward if there'll be enough room left to pull the front tires of something up n' on, or if I'll still have to extend the deck.

Or reverse roles, and put the 800 on the deck, with it's shorter body length. Helps that it's heavier, too.

Other problem I see is the dual 3k or 3.5k axles.. but that's easily fixed.. bolt in some heavier duty units if I overload it.



Side note, which way are you thinking of going for the dually rear?

Stock -15?
- 20 with your hi-speed gears? NO wheel bearing problems then :D:D
D-70?
Run the RA-15 and 4.30s. It's already set up for duals.. and when I convert it to 4x4 it'll come up 3-4" higher, which I intend to accomplish with blocks, so I'll block the bump stop to match.. my current problem is the dual'd tire would hit the wheel arch.. but not if the arch is 4" higher.

235/85-16s would be cheap since I have 4 already and they're new.. but I'm also considering a slightly taller tire to help with the highway RPM..
 

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Some places may concider that the same as pulling doubles, which is illegal in alot of states.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
FYRMAN said:
Some places may concider that the same as pulling doubles, which is illegal in alot of states.
Speaking of doubles.. I have a tow-bar, and could flat-tow behind the trailer.. but the thought of two tag-alongs isn't appealing. Gooseneck + tow-bar? Sure..

But.. back to the doubles.. my friend got harassed a time or two at the scales pulling two rigs like above. The inspectors didn't really know what to make of it.

Ultimately, his argument came down to "It's just a big tow-dolly.. WITH BRAKES"

Which is a huge step up from most of the tow dollies running around..
 

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I did this one time to get 2 jeeps home after one had been wrecked. I wouldn't ever do it again unless I really really had to. The biggest problem I had was that I could not run over 60, slower if semis were passing, because there was not enough tounge weight even with the jeep on the trailer pulled as far forward as possible. The other problem was turning, it would bind up the jeep with two tires on the ground and would want to push the back end of the truck around. This was with an 18ft trailer and 2500hd crew cab truck. Even got stopped at a road block and the cop just looked at it but didnt say anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Todd91Yj said:
I did this one time to get 2 jeeps home after one had been wrecked. I wouldn't ever do it again unless I really really had to. The biggest problem I had was that I could not run over 60, slower if semis were passing, because there was not enough tounge weight even with the jeep on the trailer pulled as far forward as possible. The other problem was turning, it would bind up the jeep with two tires on the ground and would want to push the back end of the truck around. This was with an 18ft trailer and 2500hd crew cab truck. Even got stopped at a road block and the cop just looked at it but didnt say anything.
I didn't expect it to corner really well.. definitely need to get BOTH fuel tanks operational to avoid "ugly" pit stops.

The "nice" setups involve a swivel deck on the rear of the trailer to allow the rear rig to pivot around a bit.

Sounds like I should put the "full body" Scout on first. It has a 700+lbs small block right over the front axle to help provide some tongue weight, plus I have my tire-rack (that'll be forward a foot or so from where it is now, sitting on top of the front of the trailer) and the toolbox on the tongue.

Put the lighter "race Scout" on the back.

Bonus is the 800 is shorter in body so it'll make it easier to pull off.

Still a little concerned about beefing up the trailer axles.. and I was already planning to upgrade the coupler..
 

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tsm1mt said:
Still a little concerned about beefing up the trailer axles.. and I was already planning to upgrade the coupler..

Why upgrade the coupler and axles if you aren't going to do anything about the chassis?:rolleyes:
 

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FYRMAN said:



Why upgrade the coupler and axles if you aren't going to do anything about the chassis?:rolleyes:
My thoughts too, Most beavertail tailers are not made to carry the load on the beavertail section of the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
FYRMAN said:



Why upgrade the coupler and axles if you aren't going to do anything about the chassis?:rolleyes:
Well, the trailer was home built and uses an old "channel" mounted 2" ball coupler. My intention was to upgrade to a 2 5/16 A-frame before I even thought about this idea.. so it was already planned.

And I've thought of adding to the frame, but haven't decided if it was overbuilt enough from the beginning.

I imagine the easiest thing to do would be to weld some angle to the underside of the side rails and maybe under the center supports as well.

Anyone care to make a suggestion on type of material?

2x4 .120 angle? More? Less?
 

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tsm1mt said:

Speaking of doubles.. I have a tow-bar, and could flat-tow behind the trailer.. but the thought of two tag-alongs isn't appealing. Gooseneck + tow-bar? Sure..
Does the idea of flat towing behind a gooseneck sound good to everyone?

Doubling the way Comer is in those pictures looks like a bad idea, and flat towing behind a bumper pull I know doesn't work. But people pull trailers behind 5th wheel campers all the time, so it seems like flat towing behind a gooseneck would work, but I've never seen it on the road.

I really like this idea, as I don't have the room for a 30 ft. gooseneck in my backyard, but would really like to haul 2 rigs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Zane Znamenacek said:


Does the idea of flat towing behind a gooseneck sound good to everyone?

Doubling the way Comer is in those pictures looks like a bad idea, and flat towing behind a bumper pull I know doesn't work. But people pull trailers behind 5th wheel campers all the time, so it seems like flat towing behind a gooseneck would work, but I've never seen it on the road.

I really like this idea, as I don't have the room for a 30 ft. gooseneck in my backyard, but would really like to haul 2 rigs.
My friends went to Moab a few years ago.. on the way down, he used his ex-cab F250 to pull a 24' gooseneck with an EB and a Jeep (?) on the deck, and pulled a small camp trailer behind the gooseneck.

On the return 700 mile trip, he ended up flat-towing an FJ40 and someone else hauled the camp trailer.

He was overweight, but it handled just fine.

What aspect of Comer's setup looks "bad"?

An improvement would be a swivel-section for the front of the second rig, which would allow the second rig to swivel about and track better through corners - much like double trailers.

FWIW, he's stopped pulling tow rigs in this fashion.. since he happened upon a deal on a 30' three-axle tag-along flatbed.

Michelle would really like her 800 to go to RMIHR.. and I'd really like to accomodate that. :D

Been meaning to call around and see if any place rents goosenecks for a week at a time, too.. for a reasonable price.
 

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Interesting, it's nice to hear from someone that's actually seen it done. I hope to give it a shot and be set up for doubles before next summer. :D

Nothing looks bad to me that hasn't already been covered; lack of tongue weight, excess stress and weight on a part of the trailer that's not designed for it, excess whipping from the rear vehicle, pushing the limits of a 10,000 lbs trailer. If it worked for him, great, but I would be reluctant to tow that way. JC certainly has a lot more towing experience than me, so he may very well know more about it than I do.
 

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Zane Znamenacek said:
I

JC certainly has a lot more towing experience than me, so he may very well know more about it than I do.
Which sums up why I am willing to go with something that looks so nuts.
 

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Good luck backing that up! IMO it looks scary. Does it work? Maybe. The question you need to answer is: Do you want to take the risk involved with a load towed like that? I have seriously considered getting a small pop up camper to tow behind my 28 foot goose-neck. It even already has a receiver in it. I may do it but plan on upping my insurance and never trying to back the mess up. Backing up just the trailer is fun, adding another 8 feet and a pivot point is beyond my driving skills. :D

BTW I think you will need more than a 25 foot trailer to fit 2 rigs. I put a 24" bobbed 4runner and my old XJ on my 28' trailer and it was close. A S-10 and a 70 nova were past the end of the trailer. The rear tires of the nova were only on the trailer by 8-10 inches.

I wish I had got a 30 footer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If I buy a trailer, I'd like to go for a little more than 25', but 25' is the MINIMUM.

We've had an EB and a Scout II on the 25'er.. and they just fit, with the rear overhang of the Scout hangin' off.

Thought occurred to me this morning.. just how different is this than when you see 3 Semi tractors stacked on one another for transport?

Backing up wasn't really a thought... making sure I can stop at gas stations that don't require backing up would definitely be a consideration. :)

Also talking primarily about "empty" highways in Montana, Wyoming, and Colorado, taking care to avoid big cities and congested roads.

I don't really like pulling through Salt Lake with my 20' crewcab and single car trailer sometimes..
 

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the setup looks a little crazy to me , I personally wouldn't try it. I myself have a CDL . you would need a nocommercial CDL with doubles endorsment:D
 
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